SquireSCA

Yeah, if you leave the screens alone on the dual outlet 5.3L there is no drone with or without the Range box...

1 man, did it by myself. I just got my small electric impact wrench and popped them on. Each one is like 35lbs, so I basically lied on my back and lifted one end and put a bolt or two in by hand to hold it, and then held the other end up with my leg... Awkward but it worked. Having a friend would make it easier but I was able to do it by myself without much trouble. To be honest, the largest pain in the butt, was removing all the little plastic plugs from the threaded holes...

Well sumbich....

What needs to happen is someone to make a piggy-back system for these trucks. Been doing it with EFI motorcycles forever... Bazzaz, Power Commander, etc... Small box with harnesses to plug inline with the injectors, and if you get the ignition module, the coils as well. Plugs into a laptop, and you remap the fuel and timing tables as needed, but altering the width of the pulses that the ECM is sending to the injectors... You tune it by throttle position and in 250rpm increments and you can take whatever the ECM is sending to the injectors, and add or remove fuel from that "cell" on the mapping tables. It's easy, doesn't write anything to the ECM that would show up in a dealer scan, etc... Only thing would be the need to disable any lambda sensors so that the ECM doesn't see the exhaust as "rich" and try to lean it back out and undo your tuning changes... That is usually done with resistors to send a steady signal to the ECM so it doesn't see any changes... I know many of you know this stuff, but some might not. It's how most motorcycles have been tuned for the past 15 years. For a bike, the box is $350 and us plug and play, and you can download and run canned maps, or take it to a shop with a dyno and the software and have them custom tune your truck. If you have to to take the truck to the dealer for warranty work, unplug everything and put it back to stock, and then plug it all back in when you get it back home... I feel like that may be the only real way to tune these trucks going forward...

In some ways, piggy back systems are better in that they don't touch the ECU and so diagnostically there isn't anything written that would show up as "tampered with" on a dealer scan... now, you might want to remove it prior to a trip to the dealer, but I have never had a motorcycle dealer give me a hard time with having one installed. Now, if my tune did something, like I ran it so lean or I stupidly gave it 40 degrees of ignition advance and blew up the motor, yeah, I would see that claim denied...

2019 LT Trail Boss with Lund Rock Rails

1.25" hub spacers Installed. I did have to break out the Dremel and trim a bit if the inside of the mud flap and some of the wheel well insert, but nothing is rubbing at full lock now...

The most weight I am likely to tow, is an ATV in the bed of the truck, and another ATV and maybe a dirtbike is a small trailer behind me... Maybe 3,000lbs all in...

What about inline tuners? Like a Power Commander that bikes use, but for trucks? Box that intercepts the signal from the ECM to the injectors, same with the coils... Takes whatever the stock signal is, and changes the pulse to the injectors to add or remove fuel... It is transparent to the ECU so long as it also interrupts the lambda sensor... ECU tuning us usually preferable, but when ECM's can't be tampered with, having an inline tuner and tossing the vehicle on the dyno and just mapping the entire rev range at each throttle input... Is there such an option?

Talked to the guys at Flat Out Auto, a local shop most of the dealer use and I have used in the past... They are installing a set of 1.25" spacers tomorrow, will post pics when they are done.

Mine does it, and it sounds like my bikes do when I use engine compression to slow down... some mild backfiring and crackling and popping on decel... That's what the truck sounds like...

If I were to decide to go with new wheels instead of spending a couple hundred bucks on spacers... What offset would I want, in order to move the wheels out 1.5 inches? Not sure why, but when I read up on wheel specs it gets very confusing to me. haha

I will go talk to the guys at 4WP tomorrow and see what they think. I might need them to install them, can't imagine it would take long, but I don;t have a floor jack that will lift my truck to allow me to do it at home... Well, I guess the jack that came with the truck, for tire changes would have to work, right? haha

My tires are the stock size, I upgraded to better tires, but kept the stock size of 275/60r20 So 1.5 will give me a noticeable change in stance, allow me to use my stock lug nuts, etc... The ones that I linked to... will they work? Decent brand?

They have these in stock according to the website, and I think that 1.5" might be the sweet spot between enough and not too much? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/g2-6x5-5-inch-bolt-pattern-with-1-5-wheel-spacers-black-93-83-150t/_/R-FCNB-93-83-150T

I like the look of the stock rims, my LT TB came with the 20" upgraded wheels... But I wouldn't mind moving them out a bit with a set of hub centric wheel spacers. Seems that the local 4WheelParts store has severa, types in stock... Just wondering what a good size is... I want to put the wheels out a bit, give it a bit wider stance... Don't want to cause issues with handling or excessive wear on bearings and things and I don't want to have to cut the stock lugs or whatever... Hoping that there is some magic size that you just bolt them on and go?

I honestly have no idea... this truck is still new to me and I don't know a ton about it, yet.

Latest recalls were for the brake thing, as well as the seatbelt pre-tension unit possibly causing a fire in the event of a crash and it deploying... I haven't heard anything about a recall for an ECM update related to how the motor runs...

If you can get the aerosol can of K&N filter oil, makes it even easier to re-oil...

Oiled filters are ok with MAF. It's when people over oil them that it can cause a problem... Most people just slather a bunch of filter oil on there and it's practically dripping wet, and that's no bueno...

Was at the dealer for one of the recalls and my first oil change yesterday... They are cool with catch cans... They say that as long as the person drains it and maintains it and it's installed properly, they see them a lot and don't have issues with people using them... I also discussed the DFM concerns that I have, and he said that if Range puts out a box to disable it, to get one. He said less headaches for me and them if we disable AFM/DFM and keep the valves free from crud with a Range box, etc... He pointed out that to deny a warranty claim, there would have to be something faulty with the catch can that clearly CAUSED the problem... Which I knew to be the law, but it was cool to see the service manager bring that up... They know that AFM/DFM and GDI has longevity issues, and so taking steps to avoid those issues are in both party's best interests...

As a rule of thumb, I use 93 in my 2019 Trail Boss, as well as my 2018 Z71... The 2018 has a 93 octane performance tune in it, and out of habit I just use 93 in the new truck with a stock tune as well. While the manual says that regular gas is fine, I have read too many people say that their truck seems to run better/smoother with 93... On some vehicles, it truly doesn't matter, but perhaps on some it does.

I plan to get this kit for my 2019 LT Trail Boss. Has anyone wired the relay to the positive lead for one of the fog lights, so that turning them on, would then turn on the LED bars with them? That way you don't have to worry about running wires through the firewall and all that... Thoughts?

I experimented with the screens... Makes it louder, but introduces a droning sound when you are cruising, so uncovered them. Sounds awesome. I have yet to hear a catback system that sounds better.

Maybe the DFM on the 5.3 sounds different than on the 6.2? Mine, you can hear it, but it is very subtle and doesn't sound like a helicopter...