damnthetorpedoes

I’m now running Bilstein 5100’s on the top notch. Still no rubbing.

I'll second this. Just put a full set on this week. The rears are a 15 minute job and all you need is a 21mm wrench.

I started trying to get educated on blocks (would be looking for the same size you used) and there are a lot of differing opinions on tapered vs non tapered. What did you go with and how do you like it?

Initially it looked a little high in the front. Not sure how that is possible coming from a RoughCountry 2" level when Bilstein say theirs is a 1.85" I put a tape to it today and I an still about .5" higher in the rear, so I will ride with it for a few weeks before going the block route. I only tow a handful of times per year and even the wake boat doesn't sag the rear too much.

Just installed 5100’s on all four corners. Initial impressions are that it was well worth the expense. I had 39,000 miles on the stock Rancho’s and couldn’t stand the bouncing on the freeway. I put the fronts on the 4th ring for the highest lift and removed my roughcountry 2” lower block. It almost looks higher now than it did before. I’ll give it a week or two but I may end up looking for a 2” block for the rear. Here’s a picture of it after the install.

That sounds unlikely. Did they try cutting and polishing? I would try finding someone else to look at it. I am yet to find a dealership body shop that is competent at buffing. The only way it could get worse is if they damage the clear coat. There is no way that the lettering would damage the base coat without effecting the clear. I’ve debadged two different 2017’s and both had some level of ghosting. I corrected it with a very light compound/polish. No wet sanding required.

There are a lot of people who would tell you to launch in 4hi and switch to 2hi after the 1-2 shift. I haven't done any launches with my truck, but that seems like it would be a pretty safe way of doing it. I can imagine that the Auto 4 would put a pretty high amount of stress on the t-case.

I never reset my trip A either. Haven't had an issue with the truck, but my Equinox has reset itself when it struggled to start during a recent cold snap. It finally started but the voltage must have been low enough for a reset.

Heating elements you just need to remove the leather seat skin and replace the element pad. What tires are you running and how old are they? Under moderate acceleration I get a unique noise but it started when I put new tires on, so I think its due to the aggressive tread pattern. Just a thought.

Sounds like you still have handsfree, just have to disable the active noise canceling that to my knowledge is only on the 6.2 trucks.

I would love to find a 3.5” piece to replace the resonator & tailpipe section with. I can’t get over the fact that it chokes down to 3” pipe at that point. So far no exhaust shop seems willing to make 3.5 a reality for me.

It's hard to say for certain without having heard it in person, but my experience having owned a couple Yukon XL Denali's is that the compressor rarely runs, and if it does you hardly notice it when driving especially with music playing. It is even hard to notice at a stop light with no radio. Ride quality would be noticeably more firm for even front seat driver/passenger when the bags are heavily inflated. The bags should always be firm if you squeeze them with your hand, but shouldn't be rock hard if you don't have a trailer/loaded cargo area. With how much your compressor runs I would expect the rear ride height to be high as well (cat in heat).

Are the bags inflating properly? With it running that much I would assume the rear ride quality is terrible. I would start with checking for leaks. You should also try finding a new dealer to help you. A good Chevy or Cadillac dealer could help you too since it's under warranty and they both have systems in their respective trucks. Someone on here also mentioned contacting the GM field rep for help. Maybe they will chime in with advice. I would also request that the compressor be replaced again. That one seems way too loud.

Those are all 2019 trucks in the header image. They share zero panels with our trucks.

Do you rub?

I pulled my Z71 stickers off the bed. Didn't need a package name plastered on the side of my truck. I figure the only people who know what Z71 means will know it's a Z71 anyway. Pretty sure I would be pulling the 6.2 badge off the hood on the new one too. I would rather leave people guessing if I paid extra or not.

I think they probably knocked a couple mpg off. The level and the lower air dam didn't seem to make much difference, but the tires certainly did. It's pretty hard to get above 20mpg now.

I would try talking with the sales manager at the dealership first. If that goes nowhere I would have an independent look over the trans. I used TSI in Richfield as they do a free drive test/diagnostic. They seemed pretty honest with me and just recommended a fluid change. It seemed to help on the Equinox (sealed unit with no dip stick). At 67k with an unknown history this might be a good idea anyway. https://www.transmissionshopinc.com/ Keep in mind its pretty common to hear a slight transmission whine on these trucks because they are so quiet with stock exhaust.

Do you have the 6 speed? I think those have a dip stick, I know the 8 speeds do not. I would start by checking the trans fluid. How many miles? If you don't have service history it might be a good idea to get the fluid changed. Where in MN are you?

Transmission pump? I know on some of these you can hear it at idle/low speeds.

I have a Rough Country 2" with stamped UCA's. Never rubbed with stock tires and doesn't rub with 275 60 20 KO2's. On stock 20" wheels.

Do you have any sound clips? I have the 12909 with flapper removed and resonator still on. I am considering removing the resonator for a little extra sound.

I swapped out the Mag shocks on my previous Denali with Bilstein 4600 and was very happy with the improvement in ride quality. I just spliced in resistors at all corners to eliminate any dash warning message. At the time I wasn't too crazy about cutting off the connector to splice in the resistor, but now I can't see a reason to ever want to convert back. The dealer doesn't even look at that when trading it in.

These trucks have on demand alternators, so the battery isn’t always being charged while driving. It is normal to see the voltage change as you are seeing. I believe there is more information in the manual about it. GM has been doing this for over 10 years.