Dr Awesome

My DRLs turn off with the blinker on, so if I go this route I might have the fogs turn off. However, if you tie the DRLs together and run them through a diode to the fogs, then the DRLs should both stay on when you have the blinker on and your fogs will stay on. I'm not sure which side to tie them together on or if the fuse size would have to increase (probably not), but it's an option. If I get time and figure it out I'll post it up here.

The old system apparently used to actually drain the battery while you were driving just to save on gas, then charge back up. That was no good for batteries, they like to stay charged. They have since changed it to vary based on the loads the truck is seeing, so you might need more power if you are using a trailer or powering things from your ports/outlet. Either way, it is normal and you should be able to test it.

There's a company that builds steel buildings for pretty cheap on craigslist, they can build over dirt, gravel, concrete, or anything. They advertise it as <$5k built on site, which seems like a good deal.

I would do this if my shudder was worse, but it's so slight and only just after startup, so it probably wouldn't be a good benchmark! Though, when it is time to do a flush, or if it gets worse, I will see if the offer is still out here. Otherwise, I'll have to buy it like everyone else I suppose!

What were you touching up with?

Transfer case is under there around that area, could be something in there. Have you tried putting it in 4WD and seeing if it changes it at all? I just did my transfer case fluid and there was quite a bit of gunk, and I only have 3k on it. Might not be related at all, but if you haven't done the fluid in there you could check that out and see if there are any signs of an issue in there. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/213361-changed-my-transfer-case-fluid-at-3k-surprised-at-the-amount-of-gunk-pic/

Good to hear, I would have peed myself when I pulled up in the parking lot, wouldn't be sure I could get it home like that! It's going to look pretty slick once it gets sorted out!

Do you have to worry about overspray or anything? Will it damage plastics, cables, etc. under the truck?

I have a question on anyone with a topper. I got a Ranch Icon topper with keyless entry put on a few weeks ago and I'm not happy with it. Here are my issues: 1. The fitment isn't very good. The rear of the topper is tight to the truck like a glove, but as it approaches the front of the cab, it flares out about 1/2" (pic attached), so it's outside the profile of the truck and I think it looks tacky. Ranch says it is normal, the vendor says that the boxes on the 2014-2018 trucks varies a lot and that is why, but I don't buy it. 2. The vendor did a pretty poor install job on the harnesses, they spliced into my bed lighting wiring with compression splices and there was a wire just hanging down in the bed where most of the others were routed inside the bed rail. 3. I went to fix the wiring and put it in split loom to look better and when I lifted it up, I noticed the paint down the bed rail was chipped off where the topper met the bed in 4 or 5 spots, some over an inch long (pic attached). This really makes me mad because I don't plan to run a topper all the time and now my bed will surely rust if it isn't fixed. 4. The latch for the cap wouldn't fully engage on the left side (there are 2 stages to the latch, wouldn't get to the second stage). I brought it in and they fiddled with it and now that works, but it seems like that should work from the factory... (pic attached) 5. Water was leaking in. I know they may not be completely water tight, but it was pretty bad, dripping all down the cab side rail and in from the tailgate. When I took it in for the latch they put a couple more layers of cap tape on it to seal it better. So my questions are, for those of you running truck caps, which one do you have and do you have any fitment or quality issues? Are they nice and snug? Did your cap damage the paint at all? I'm going to call them tomorrow and I'm thinking I'll return this thing if they will allow it. If they don't, I guess I'll be stuck taking legal action. And I need to get this paint fixed and they are going to pay for it.

2 feet drop?! Haha jk, thanks!

Is the HP fluid folks mention here just Mobil 1 LV ATF HP? Or re-branded under a GM number? Has it helped with the clunkyness for those who have swapped the fluid out from the GM fluid? I'm thinking of having this done just because I'd rather have the better fluid, whether or not it helps. Mine is not bad, but I can feel it in some shifts depending on conditions. I have a 5.3 with the 8 speed.

Anyone know if I would have an issue with my Z71 Rancho shocks if I put in 2" drop shackles? Or know if I will feel any ride difference from the extra compression on them?

Thanks, that could come in handy down the road!

Ahh I see what you mean now, I would think an exhaust shop could bend those closer for cheap! If I do it, I will probably do the dual tip single side exit GM one. I went to Borla and looked for the same one, but they only have a split side exit (one on each side). I wonder why that is, maybe they only make that one for GM?

I'm missing something, why don't you like the rear exit? Is it the way it looks or just the sound of the system? I was considering this setup, I don't really want to get louder in general, just have a little better tone when I get on it... and, let's face it, it's something to do!