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Dr Awesome

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About Dr Awesome

  • Rank
    Mac Daddy Bighorn

Profile Information

  • Location
    Big Lake, MN
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2018 Onyx Black GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Loaded w/ Dark Argent Wheels
  • Interests
    Things with engines, computers, and electronics.

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  1. Tried the QR code last night since I couldn't find them anywhere (though most were on my build sheet), thanks for the info!
  2. Fluids

    Are you talking about Amsoil? They make great stuff, and I would use it in the truck, but they didn't get the approvals for Dexos1 Gen 2 (even though it would probably exceed it easily, I think they just didn't pay for it). If something went wrong in the engine, that would be ammo for GM to not approve repairs under warranty. Again, that's really unlikely, but until I'm out of warranty I will wait to put that in the truck.
  3. Fluids

    When you ask about the best oil, you will get 10 different opinions from 8 people! But for me I use Liqui Moly full synthetic for the diffs and transfer case. Liqui Moly doesn't have a Dexos1 Gen 2 stamped engine oil right now, so the oil I have is Mobil 1 from the dealership (free changes) until I start doing my own, which I will probably switch to another actual full synthetic. I was thinking Amsoil, but they don't have the Dexron1 Gen 2 stamp on it, so I'm not sure yet. The transmission in the 8 speed uses Mobil 1 HP fluid, which is GMs standard for that. I think the 6 speed is still listed as Dexron VI, so if I had that I would swap it out with Liqui Moly around 30k. Or I think some have used the M1 HP fluid in there and had good results with the clunky shifts (don't quote me on that, though, I only know about the 8 speed). Fully synthetic is better for protection, longevity, etc. In the USA you can put full synthetic on the box even if it is blended, but in Europe and many other countries they don't allow it. That is one reason I buy Liqui Moly, which is made in Germany and is truly fully synthetic, and I've had very good performance in my past vehicles. In the end I think the important thing is that you do the maintenance on time, and less about what product you use. There's always that guy putting in walmart bottom shelf oil in every 15k and not having any issues, but you won't see me taking that chance!
  4. Mine is a 5.3 with the 8 speed and has a little chuggle or fish bite when I accelerate at lower speeds, usually more noticeable before it's all warmed up. I know the dealer won't do anything about it unless it gets worse or more reproducible, and it's not really bad now, just enough that I notice it and I'm anal about the little things on mine. I know the 2018 has the HP fluid in it already for the 8 speed, so I know that isn't a fix like some of the other posts had mentioned. I think it's torque converter pulse width modulation being poorly controlled. And since it's a 2018 with the new generation of trucks coming out, I doubt they are putting any more work into the transmission control firmware unless there's a safety concern.
  5. Chevy Shake Fixed

    Did you snap any pics of the new shaft(s)? Curious of how it goes in, just in case I need it down the road.
  6. Rusting Frame

    What were you touching up with?
  7. Haha funny you say that, I was just trying to figure out how I could mount a magnet on my push mower's oil plug yesterday! I did the rear diff today, didn't look too bad, but the magnet was pretty hard to get cleaned off. I did the best I could, but it's mounted at the bottom of the case so it was hard to get int he cracks. I rinsed it all out with some new fluid before I filled it all up. It's easy to do and you don't have to lift it to do the rear, just drop the spare tire to make it easier to access. You are about right for the amount needed, here were about my measurements, though the bottles don't have level indicators so I have to go by what I feel is left in there. I used more than this because I did some rinsing in each of them and it's always a good idea to have an extra liter or two around. Front Diff - 1.5L Rear Diff - 2L Transfer Case - 1.5L
  8. Transfer case is under there around that area, could be something in there. Have you tried putting it in 4WD and seeing if it changes it at all? I just did my transfer case fluid and there was quite a bit of gunk, and I only have 3k on it. Might not be related at all, but if you haven't done the fluid in there you could check that out and see if there are any signs of an issue in there. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/213361-changed-my-transfer-case-fluid-at-3k-surprised-at-the-amount-of-gunk-pic/
  9. This was my first brand new vehicle! I've been in the "nearly new" arena for a few years, just took the leap. I definitely do oil early (3k for the first 2 free oil changes, then 5k after), but diffs and transfer case will be on the 10-20k interval I think. I bought it new so I could have assurance that all the right maintenance was done and know how it was driven so I know it will last! I am planning to drive this one into the ground, got the 10 year warranty for some extra assurance, though, so at least that long. That said, I did get the Airaid intake tube and dry filter for it, and I've done some cosmetic items, but no tuning or anything until the warranty is up. I am considering some helper bags with a 2" drop in the rear and a catch can to keep the carbon buildup at bay, but I need to talk to the dealer to discuss the probability of a warranty issue. I'm thinking just the catch can until I get something I haul consistently like a boat or larger trailer. The mod bug is itching me bad, though, I just can't leave things alone!
  10. True that, I let them sit and dribble while I went in and took a break just to make sure. I will probably do it again at about 10k and make sure nothing is getting worse. I don't put many miles on so that could take me almost a year, though!
  11. It should be controlled on the left side if it's like mine. I'm not an expert, but I did mess with it and just hit + or - and the gain popped up. If this isn't there, then you might not have the brake controller option.
  12. Oh and you just have to make sure the truck is level, I have ramps for the front and jack the rear up to level it out.
  13. I was quoted by the dealer and it was too much, I think it was around $300 to get the front/rear diff and transfer case done. The process is very easy, just a drain plug and a fill plug, fill it until it dribbles (well, stops dribbling I guess). I think the rear says a few millimeters (3 to 19mm if I remember right) below the fill plug, so I'll just fill it until it dribbles out and siphon out a little bit more.
  14. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    Good to hear, I would have peed myself when I pulled up in the parking lot, wouldn't be sure I could get it home like that! It's going to look pretty slick once it gets sorted out!
  15. I changed my front differential and transfer case fluid the other day and I was surprised at how many shavings that were in there. I did it at 3K in order to put my favorite fluids in there. I used Liqui Moly Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the front and Top Tec 1800 (Dexron-VI equivalent) in the transfer case. Most people wouldn't really be doing this as early as I am, but I was bored and my buddy had the differential in his Silvy with 15k on it lock up because the factory didn't fill it enough! So anyway, to my surprise, there were quite a few filings on there, much more than I would expect with a truck with 3k on it. Nothing big on there (no chunks), but the magnet was definitely full on the transfer case. The front differential (which doesn't get exercised much) had little on it. I'll be doing the rear differential when the extra fluid shows up since I underestimated! Edit: I forgot to mention, I also did this because I bought it new and wanted to get any break-in shavings and manufacturing oils out of there.

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