Farmerman1379

I don't see why you couldn't make it dual function. It's been quite a while since I put my boostautoparts mirrors on my truck, but I would look up guides to installing their tow mirrors to figure out what wire to tap into for the signal.

I'd love some nice Kings, I just don't want to swing that much cash at suspension right now. I stumbled across Ironman's Foam Cell Pro shocks, but they don't make any for these trucks. From the research I've done, they sound like what I think would accomplish my goal. The closest application to the K2 trucks that they do make shocks for is the Toyota Tundra, but it uses different shock mounts. Even if I did swap mounts out, I'm not sure how well they would work on my truck because of the valving. It's also hard to really tell how a shock is going to feel on my truck by reading forums because how it feels subjective. My wheel/tire combo weighs 66 pounds a piece. I could very easily see some people's being close to 100 pounds a piece. My stock ones were 88 pounds. So many variables and I can't find a concrete way to figure out what I want which is driving me crazy.

I gotcha. I ended up getting my 265/70r17s on and it rides so much better than the old 285/45r22s. I might try the Bilstein 4600s, take the spacer out of the front, and take the block out of the rear leaf pack. Probably the thing that bothers me most right now is washboards on county roads. It's like the rebound can't keep up and it bunny hops in the rear end. There's one section of the road that is pretty awful, and the rear end will get loose and kick out to the side.

I know this is probably a loaded question. I'm switching to 17 inch wheels and 265/70r17 Cooper Road+Trail ATs from stock 285/45r22 Cooper At3 4S. CCSB 4x4 with 112k miles with a RC lower strut spacer for level and original suspension components. I don't tow or haul much anymore and offroading is contained to driving around the farm. I'd like a more forgiving suspension for daily driving the same junk Illinois roads without giving up much if any handling (not sure if that's feasible). I'm also not hung up on keeping it leveled and i definitely don't want to lift it. If anything I'd like to do a reverse level. A few things I am considering are 6112s in the front set to a lower pre-load setting with either 5100s or 5160s in the back. I also thought about doing the Deaver mini pack in the rear with drop shackles in addition to new shocks. I also considered the Eibach Pro Truck set. I don't want to spend several thousand on suspension, but if I can get into a decent setup for around 1500 I think it would be well worth it. It doesn't need to ride like a cadillac, but if I can make driving it more enjoyable and pleasant for me and my passengers, I would be happy.

I want their progressive cat back but I've spent more than I would've liked to recently. $1000 deductible, new shotgun, scope for the shotgun, slugs aren't cheap. Olight is having sales soon too and I plan on getting one of their bundles. Do you know what the shipping time is on the exhaust? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You get any rock chips with those tires? Had to put mud flaps on mine because it was stupid how much the stock AT Duelers were throwing rocks at the side of my truck. Mind you I live down a rock road that turns to mud when it rains but... Looks so good without the flaps on it, but the rocks just tear it up [emoji31] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Went to go pick my truck up from the shop after being wrecked for 6 weeks. Started driving away, turned the AC on full blast and it started blowing glass out at me. The consensus is that driving over bumps in the road knocked glass loose in the ductwork that wasn't blown out when they took the dash apart. Back in the damn shop again, over $10k in repairs already. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

It just looks wrong. If it was completely blacked out, had a bumper flush with the tailgate, had the taillights flush with both the bumper and the tailgate, and it was slammed, I think it would look better.

I liked the way it sounded in their install video, it's not very expensive, and its 300 series stainless so its shouldn't corrode or oxidize like aluminized steel or 400 series stainless. Truck's in the shop right now because of a deer. $1k deductible so I won't be spending money for a while.

How're you liking the carven exhaust? I've been eyeing the progressive one for a while but they didn't have a 4th of July sale like I was hoping. Is your AFM disabled?

Did a quick Google search and found a thread on this site of another 2 people having the same issue with the thermostat not opening.

How heavy is your boat? I can't imagine it overheating from that, especially if you're cruising interstate speeds with that air flow through the cooler.

I unbolted the stock exhaust after the 3rd cat for shits and grins to see what it's like uncorked. V4 under load makes it seem like the truck is going to shake apart. V4 when under no load is hardly different from V8. V8 is fun when you can hear it. I was thinking of slapping a Carven Cat Back on it, but I hit a deer and have a $1000 deductible It's at a shop right now.

How well does do tail lights shine through that tint? Tinting 3rd brake light as well?

I was the only one in the truck. Going out the rock road when I heard a loud bang and my windshield shattered in on me. Ended up taking my brother's 2018 LT Z71 to work. Insurance adjuster hasn't called yet and my truck is sitting in a shed to keep it out of the eventual rain from the tropical storm next week.

This is what I did to mine today, or rather a deer. Jumped out of a corn field, into my fender, slid across the hood, up the windshield and launched over the rest of the truck after leaving more crumpling and dents in the front of the roof. Interior is covered in glass and the passenger A-pillar is also slightly damaged.

What's the throw like on that top bar? I have a Diode Dynamics 6 inch bar where you have that one and it basically doubles the headlight output on high beams. I'd like to fit something wider in there though.

You decide what muffler you're getting? I want a little deeper rumble, enough to hear it on startup and accelerating. Not going to disable AFM though and I dont want an obnoxious chop. I can find Borlas for around 100 on ebay and I can cut and weld it, but I dont want to swap between multiple setups to find what I like.

I used the bottom 3 bolt holes in this diagram to mount the bottom two lights. The center one connects to the insides of both lights. I used the top 2 on either side of the center post at the top for the top light. The bottom ones are hidden behind that flexible plastic cowl which comes off with the grille. I tried to keep the brackets as tight to the shutter body as I could between the bolts and the lights. I used 1/8" by 1" wide steel plate to make the brackets. Chopped the light mounts from Diode Dynamics down to weld them onto the brackets I made to make it fit easier. I'd like to make new brackets out of bent pieces of steel instead of my v1.0 welded ones. Also would love it if they made a curved 18 inch bar with the outer 2 lights on one switch and the middle on its own. That would probably give me enough room to keep all 3 lights together on the bottom and keep my fog lights separate from my flood/driving. Also need to figure out how I can add aux reverse lights and good places to put puddle lights under the cab. And eventually get around to putting footwell lights in. ?

What are those lights that you used in the grille? Great looking rig.

Floor looks naked, needs some liners lol. I put Husky x-act contour in mine.

Nice install. I made some brackets for my 18 Silverado and used Diode Dynamics 6 inch bars. Bottom 2 have are on 1 switch and the top is on a different switch.

I made custom mounts and used Diode Dynamics 6 inch bars on my '18 with AGS. They're 3 inches deep, so it's kind of tight on clearance, I wouldn't go any deeper for a LED light. Sorry for bad pic quality. Bottoms are wide lens, top is driving. I'm going to switch the bottom lenses back over to amber when it's not so cold outside. I didn't trim anything to make them fit. The custom mounts took.. a while to get right. I chopped the mounts down and that came with the lights so I could still adjust them vertically. Welded the chopped mounts to my brackets. The bottom fogs and top driving are on their own switches. I plan on using that OE style light control switch for fogs/offroad lights to control these.

2 bottom lights are wide lens "fog" lights. Top is driving beam. The fogs have a very wide beam pattern and are brighter than OEM fog lamps. The driving beam is shaped like a cone with pretty even light distribution throughout it. Sorry for the potato quality, my phone camera doesn't focus anymore and the glass lens covering it is shattered. I had between 1/16 and 1/8 inch between the shutters closing and my fogs. The driving beam sits in that open pocket above the bow tie where there is no shutter. I plan on getting that OE style light switch with fog and offroad light control. Right now the fogs are on their own switch and the driving is on its own.

At work right now, I'll get pictures in a couple hours when I get home.