NCPGMC

Sure, why not? You can sue people for anything nowadays, why not that? There is a guy here that is suing Hardee's (Carl's Jr.) because he didn't get enough hashbrowns with his biscuit. https://www.orlandosentinel.com/features/gone-viral/ny-north-carolina-man-lawsuit-hardees-hash-browns-civil-rights-20190629-4jjhkhzkkbhkheiq25yb4pap74-story.html

I am sure there are other ways to fix it and I think that most here on this thread would be happy to spend $20 fixing the problem. I don't need or want to sit around and wait for GM to maybe do something 5 years from now. Problem is, no one but you apparently knows the answer...There is a lot of brainstorming in these 16 pages and no one has come up with the solution. The only other thing drawing current is the sliding window itself. That would mean a stuck "window close" relay that it constantly running B+ to the window. We have all reached the conclusion that it is the defogger because it has only happened when that circuit is closed and sending current. In the first hand accounts, a burning smell and smoke is seen at the point in the glass where the sliding window makes contact with the fixed side. The schematic shows that the only thing controlled by the underhood fuse #10 is the rear defogger. Am I missing something here that others can surmise?

Am I to interpret this to say that even without the fuse in the circuit, there is some other B+ running to this thing from a secondary source that is not in the schematic?

It might not be a permanent solution or the issue but my back window won't be blowing out in the interim...Cryptic messages are no solution either but there are no shortage of them on this thread...

It does not appear that you have remote start. RPO Code "BTV" is for remote start...

Ohh boy...

Get your checkbook out...$$$$

Warranty it...

I know, right? It's even easier nowadays with .pdf versions...just hit Ctrl+F and search away...

https://www.obd-codes.com/p050d and also... https://static.oemdtc.com/TSB/MC-10118262-9999.pdf

No, however, I only recall reading one instance of a solid back glass breaking out; all others were with a sliding window...

If everyone is that concerned with build-up, why not just do what others have suggested and just use that CRC GDI Cleaner? Seems like $10 or so for a can is pretty cheap to run through there every year...I confess to having NO experience with catch cans but I do like reading others' experience with them. I, too, am still not really convinced that collecting that crap is really "better" for your intake. I will admit, however, that the argument of "look at all that intake diarrhea in there, how can keeping that stuff out be bad?" is a pretty compelling argument.

Not in the least, my point is the entire truck is outdated...and for the record my '17 still has a key and I much prefer it.

Well, you better hurry and get your horrendously outdated Nissan or Toyota before they update them in like...2050 or if ever. But I guess you wont have to worry about that crippling pesky capless fuel filler

Do you mind enlightening the rest of us why your capless fuel filler is so horrible that you are going to trade you whole truck? I personally find that hard to believe...Secondly, why would the dealer have to re-route your vent? To where? Why did it cost over $700? Finally, good luck finding another vehicle that doesn't have a capless system, seems they all do best I can remember from driving rentals...

Ohh okay, for some reason I thought that the DRLs were the whole HL's instead of the LEDs...so then yes, somehow deactivating the light sensor to keep the circuit open would be the trick.

That's what I assumed...I looked over the schematics for the headlamps, the DRLs, the fog lights, and the parking lights...I am thinking that it unfortunately all comes back to the BCM programming as was postulated earlier. I did not see an easy way to jump a diode, remove a fuse, or otherwise trick BCM to NOT turn on the whole headlamp set ALL of the time...I am not from Canada but by reading I am assuming that is what is happening...basically anytime the truck is in gear, the whole headlight assembly comes on, regardless of time of day/ambient light. You may be able to mess with the grounding to keep the circuit open but then you wouldn't be able to use the headlights unless you had a second switch...

Jeeze it's testy in here...Anyways...I will ask a simple question that I probably know the answer to, but, just to start with the simplest work-around...It you turn the knob to "off" while in park and then shift into gear, I assume that the lights come on, correct?

I think it's hit or miss with any 921 LED. Some are better than others and some are way overpriced. The Philips ones are a bit more expensive but I think they work better with the reflector and don't just scatter the light all over the place like others do... https://www.amazon.com/Philips-12789LPB2-Bright-Vision-Back-up/dp/B01I3OTWQ2/ref=sr_1_15?crid=20PR27NFNOKXD&keywords=led+921+bulb&qid=1553778489&s=gateway&sprefix=led+921%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-15

I fail to see the point of getting brighter lights then tinting them down...Are you just wanting to black out the clear part of the tail lamp assembly?

I didn't think it was yours, not a good sales tactic to show a filthy truck for sale and caption it "after a wash"...

No offense, but did you even wash the bottom half? I know I might be more anal about what a "wash" is and everyone is different...Just looks like you sprayed it with a hose lol. Either way, I like that cap with on the single cab, looks good.

Yes, just pull the fuse only. The relay controls both the mirrors and the rear defogger.