zzrsouth

I also think the 10 spd would be an improvement. It shifts great when you drive it like you stole it but I want it to shift more smoothly at a normal pace. The fluid change TSB helped but wife's Tahoe is still much smoother in all manner of driving. Otherwise good truck and the turbo engine has been stone axe reliable going on 3 years now.

I have a squeak in that region which seems to be the driverside vertical door trim piece against the aft driverside window glass rubber gasket. Trim piece feels loose when the door is open, I havent decided if its worth trying to tighten.

Having both the full system and the knob my experience is that the knob only affects the sub amp and flex tune only affects the second amp.

I'm at 19ish lifetime doing mostly city. real city, 45 min to drive 18 mi city. I've had mine 14 months now / 9k mi , 2019LT 4x4 (non-Z71 with the adv tow ratio rear end), and it's been a solid vehicle but the 8spd does bang a gear at low speed every now and then. No complaints for a truck but my wife's K2xx tahoe is better for family vehicle duties in every way with only 1 or 2 mpg worse.

I found I couldn't program my 2019LT home link until I removed the LED bulbs from the opener the previous own installed.

After unlocking it I used a big flat bladed screw driver to gently push the connector out.

Really appreciate the grille instructions. Did mine today.

I also can cycle through my usual views using the bottom buttons. On 805.1 if it matters...

Still on 805.1 here with no updates available. Its stable so no rush.

Nothing yet. I'm watching this thread which may be of interest to you.

Following! With the IOS Nav upgrade the picture shows on the nav map screen too which is kind of lame when the image choices are worse than the old XP windows default icons...

I realize I'm wasting my breath but for the silent thread watchers these charts show why my 2 7T truck tractors up Steven's pass. The 4.3 V6 is the bottom curve but it's the same for most NA powerplants that make max torque up at high rpms. The 2.7T is at max torque at 1500 rpm. As I am not accelerating or dragging a 6k pound trailer my truck never shifts as the grade increases it just adds fuels to produce more torque at the same rpm. Turbo engines can be setup for torque or top end hit. As MDSilverado has said multiple times GM went for torque. The engine runs out of breath well before the rev limiter but it doesnt matter because it doesnt need to turn 4k to make enough torque to maintain 70mph up a grade and that's why its awesome. I think the differences are magnified at partial throttle settings where we all operate 99% of the time. The concept is probably foreign if you haven't driven a small diesel or other forced induction engine tuned for torque which is why there are so many doubters and haters. But Im tired of people coming to our thread asking for explanations and then telling us we dont know what we're talking about. Drive the truck and decide for yourself. I think most will love it. This is my 3rd turbo vehicle and I'll never go back.

I didn't say anything about towing, that is your thing. I want my truck to do my thing which is 70mph+ up WA state passes with my family in the cab and my bike in the bed and getting good city mpg for commuting to work. And my truck does my thing great.

The turbo offers more usable torque at low revs. Most apparent when climbing a mtn pass. NA engines struggle or have to turn high revs whereas the turbo just tractors up in top gear.

Yeah I have a short steep hill on my daily commute where this happens if I'm going slow and keep the throttle position steady. Sometimes I ride the vibes. Otherwise a little more entry speed or more throttle alleviates it.

City fuel economy is better, hwy is worse above 60. Otherwise the truck is hugely capable. Drive both. I test drove 2 5.3's and preferred the 2.7T. High speed damping and chassis flex are main things I think GM could improve but I'm not a truck guy so might have unrealistic expectations there

I will and I do. I haven't had any trouble but Im pretty sure I dont work mine as hard as you other guys. Now if I can just get my Onstar connection issue fixed. Those Onstar people are thick.

So there's an upside to my cheapo base soon to be winter wheels?

I got a letter from GM about engine harness chaffing. Seems like a recall level event as it shows up with the seatbelt and brake module reprogram as a required service in the my chev app. Thought the thread followers might be interested.

5.7k here, down to 30 percent oil life on first oil but trying to hold out for 10 to get the free dealer service. No mechanical issues beyond the common 8spd gremlins which have definately improved with miles. 19.5 lifetime mpg doing 95% suburb/city driving on Costco PNW 87

Does this only affect iPhones? I dont have this issue with my Android device/IOS radio

I think I have that LH AC duct rattle. Also found sometimes moving the steering wheel rake up and down has quieted a buzz I had under load on the highway

Have about 3.5k miles on mine still on original oil (50% oil life left according to dic) and have smooth idle on cold starts. Similar pressures to above. In Seattle though so cold isn't that cold.

I find used OEM rims on CL or Ebay for my winter tires and buy a 2nd set of oem sensors off Ebay. Its definately a pita compared to the pre TPMS days. Usu the CL used rim cost is not much worse than steelies and in the past you could associate the sensors following the owners manual deflate - inflate procedure. I think 255/70R17, the minimum OEM tire, would be the most effective winter size and probably what I'll get as it's an Xice2 size.

Michellin X-ices are the best winter 'truck/SUV' tire I've found. Xi2 s are the LT version. Have them in the wife's Tahoe and it's our ski resort vehicle. With the G80 rear 4wd is hardly ever needed unless it's a long and steep hill