mikemcclain8

While I can't speak directly to the question about AFM delete, I can say that I bought a '15 suburban with 60,000 miles on it and immediately put in the Range to delete AFM. I made it to 229,000 miles before the transmission blew up. So, maybe it helps as the transmission guy told me they often go out between 100-150k.

I put new shocks on the rear again a few weeks ago (65k miles on them and getting rough) and noticed one of the electrical connections wasn't "clicked" in. I had trouble getting the new one to click in also until I spray the rubber with lubricant and it slid right it. Haven't had the issue since then. Also, the message/limiter would reset with turning the car off/on again. BTW, the struts were put in by a shop so I'm not sure if it was OEM or after-market.

I just completed the spark plug change on my '15 suburban. I did it through the wheel well based on info I read and it was much easier than leaning over the engine and trying to do it. There are quite a few lines in the way from above as well as heat shield stuff. The 8th plug was still a pain because of the passenger footwell but the others were straight forward and easy to access. Took about 40 minutes once the tires were off.

Just to piggy back in case anyone is searching and finds this post. 2015 suburban with temp gauge not going above 170 degrees and heat blowing warm only. Outside temp was 0 degrees. Went to autozone and picked up a thermostat for $55, installed in less than 30 minutes and temp back at 210 degrees with heat blowing very hot. Not OEM, but so far so good.

Hello all, I have a 2015 Suburban LTZ with Magnaride and air leveling. The right rear shock locked up recently (both had been leaking for awhile) and after driving it for a month I decided to do something about it. A local shop quoted me $1500 for both rear shocks but also said I could probably purchase compatible shocks online and do the job myself in a weekend. So, I went with the latter choice and completed the job in 2 hours. First 1.5 hours was figuring out how to do it on the left, last 30 minutes was changing the right. Not a hard job at all but a second set of hands makes it easier. Here are the shocks I went with at $300 for the pair: Dewinston rear air shocks, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091DZM44Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I messaged the seller with my VIN to ensure it fit and had magnaride which they confirmed. Basic Steps (no pictures, sorry): 1. Central Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks - safety first 2. Remove rear tire. 3. Remove inner liner using torx and phillips screwdriver. I actually unscrewed the back half and pulled liner out of the way but you can fully remove if you want. 4. Disconnect wiring harness - probably the hardest part. There is a gray tab to the back of the connector on the car side that you need to press/squeeze to release the connection. I don't have a picture but you'll see it if you use a flashlight and look at where the wires enter the female pigtail. 5. Disconnect air hoses 6. 21mm socket on the back side of the top bolt, I used a socket extension to reach it, and brace against the frame. 21 mm socket on other side and loosen/remove. 7. Unscrew bottom bolt. 8. Once both bolts are out, pry the old shock out and remove but make note of the routing so you put the new one in correctly. There are some tubes in the way that you need to route through. It'll make sense when you look at it. 9. Reroute new shock and attach top bolt. 10. SOMEWHAT TRICKY PART: The shock needs to be compressed in order to get it in the bottom bracket - here is what I did. a. Take a long, sturdy, screwdriver and place the end through the bottom hole on the bracket and use the handle under the shock to compress the shock First Hole picture). It will compress and rise to the level of the bracket but not into it as the screwdriver hits the bracket. Here is where the second set of hands helps....hold the shock compressed and quickly move the screwdriver from the bottom hole to directly between the bracket and the shock and compress/push into the bracket (second hole picture). Once in, you'll need to compress the shock a little more in order to get the bolt to slide through by using the screwdriver under the shock (still in the bracket) and levering it up. Attach the bolt and tighten down. 11. Plug in the pig tail and push the air hose over the fitting on the shock. 12. Put it all back together and you're done. No errors in the Driver information center and the trucks rides smooth again. Hope this helps someone who is as hesitant as I was. I'm not a mechanic either, but this is very doable.

I would like the range unit

Xbox Series X: Assassin's Creed Valhalla, Forza Motorsport 7, Forza Horizon 4.

Not sure on digital renderings, but there were around 30k cutouts in place in the stands. Based on the image posted, I'd say digital was definitely involved. Got chills when the planes flew over though, digital or not. Too bad the Chiefs didn't show up and the GOAT did.

I used to play in the ForEx market in the late 2000's. To me, that's when the market started to change and not make sense. Used to be you could count on a bounce when Bernake spoke or when GDP was good. Something happened and the opposite began to happen. That's when I got out and simply do Mutual or index funds.

I've had both doses of Moderna. First Dose Reaction: Sore arm for 1.5 days, 10 minute case of "uncontrollable shivering" about 18 hours after the shot, felt "irritable" the next day. Nothing else. Second Dose: Sore arm for 1.5 days, nothing else. I did take regular Ibuprofen during this series though. I had not been diagnosed with COVID prior to this and did not have symptoms that would have warranted testing although I was in the same office with 5 others who tested positive and had symptoms.

While I think the "David vs Goliath" is a good story, I find it hard to believe that there weren't some bigger players on the buy side of these stocks. The problem I see is that people were still buying as the GME stock went to $400, otherwise the price wouldn't continue to climb. If I remember correctly, options tend to push the price higher/lower so purchases were made towards the top. When the entities that process the trades, like Robinhood, decide that you can now only "Sell" and no new buying is allowed, that shrinks the possibility that the price will continue to climb. If I'm in long and see that "buying" has been artificially stopped, I'm selling as quick as I can to maximize my profits....especially in a situation where the price has been manipulated. Those that bought at $400 have the potential to lose a lot of money if the price plummets. It looks like buying is allowed again and the market is reflecting that but man is it a volatile situation. Bottom line, IMO, more regulation will come from this and the little guy will be affected the most when it comes to trading.

Maybe you had to OPT In to the class action lawsuit. I regularly get emails saying I needed to opt in to be a part of any lawsuit. I'm guessing when you opt in you also include your VIN. You may ask your friend if they remember doing that.

ACC: Our Toyota has it and I'm not sure I like it. It functions well but I've got two issues with it. First: If I'm in the fast lane and approaching an 18 wheeler with a car behind it. Never fails the car speeds up to get in front of me to pass. Leads to instant braking to establish the distance which can really mess up anyone behind you. So, I've learned to disengage when this situation arises but still an annoyance. Second, I am so used to seeing the car in front grow larger in the window as I approach and that triggers me to move over to the fast lane to pass. With ACC I'll find I'm doing 60 to match the car in front when I thought I was at 70. I know I can set the distance but it's a bit annoying. For the lane departure, I don't use it in the suburban or the toyota because I don't like the car doing the steering.

I can't tell you how many times I'm leaning in to grab a package and the door chimes and begins to close on me. When I actually want the swipe foot to work, it takes multiple times. So annoying!

Bwaaahaaaahaaaaahaaaa.

My 8 wouldn't charge through the case either. My fix was to cut out the plastic in the charging case (underside of the pad) and taped the coils up into the new gap. Closed the space enough to allow charging. I'm thinking I could trim the rubber part of the pad and my 12 would fit but I'm hesitant to cut something that is visible within the car.

My '15 LTZ has the wireless charging and the kick to open liftgate, just FYI. Regarding the wireless charging. I actually had to replace my unit as I thought it was bad but apparently it could be the ribbon cable. Anyway, I bought a cheap disk wireless charger and took the guts out of it....cleaned out the stock charger compartment and put the cheap one in. Plugged into the USB in the center console and hid the wire. Worked great on my Iphone 8 but now have the 12 and it's too wide to fit.....

Couple tidbits from my experience when it comes to projectors: 1. If it's a dedicated room that can get completely dark, the Lumens aren't as important. The more daylight that creeps into the room, the more Lumens needed. - I have an infocus x10 which is only 1200 lumens and it does fine in the basement with shades drawn. outside, it needs to be pretty late to have ample darkness. 2. I don't see a huge difference between mine at 1080p and others at 4k....at least not enough to justify the costs. 3. Check the cost/availability of replacement bulbs. 4. Each projector has different throw ratio's so make sure you use a calculator when sizing up your options. - I use this: https://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus-X10-projection-calculator-pro.htm#calc (example of mine) https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm (general) Just a few things to consider.

well Donstar, I have a 70" TV in the same room as the projector but "movie night" requires the projector. It's currently at 120". I also use it for outdoor movies by the pool in the summer so it serves a dual purpose. I still like the "Movie Theater" feel to it but TV's are truly catching up quickly.

Hey KARNUT, if you haven't already done it, I'd recommend a surge protector for the projector. Mine is ceiling mounted so putting a surge protector appeared cumbersome. However, I blew two power supplies within the unit so I found a surge that plugs into the outlet directly and have it in now. Did you go with a dolby Atmos set up or the traditional 5.1 or 7.1 ( or .2 for that matter) ? Next step is to automate the entire start up including light dimming, electric screen, stereo input set ups, etc. A bit of work but I like that stuff and pushing one button to get the movie experience set up is worth it to me. What PJ did you get?

My 2015 Suburban has the Magnetic on the front and air on the back. 90K miles with no problems. The only "problem" is the loud compressor that fills the sacs in the back. I'm sure this will lead to a failed compressor at some point but for now it's fine. The ride is very nice. My old Expedition had the air but regular shocks on front and I'd say the magnetic is much smoother.

This shows the location of the remote amplifier.

One other thing. When you took the new battery out of the package, did you remove the sticker on the back side before installing? In the past, I have forgotten that and thought the fob was dead until I took the battery out and noticed the sticker that prevents contact.

To JollyMae, the amplifier for the keyfobs is located on the passenger rear side and may be the issue. Try leaving the keyfob near the right rear of the vehicle and walk around and press the buttons on the driver side to see if they work. The keyfob is required (detectable by the car) for those buttons to work so maybe they aren't being seen by the receiver/amplifier.

One of my fondest memories was attending a Manchester United (English Soccer) match in England. They actually have a section of the stadium where the away fans have to sit and it's surrounded by security (yellow vests). Constant verbal assaults on the away fans and plenty of double digit communication (English middle finger) while the away fans chant derogatory songs about the home team.....brilliant!! Never been to a college/pro sport in the US that can rival it.