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rlcole321

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Everything posted by rlcole321

  1. Camber and toe are the largest wear factor for tires, changing higth, either lowering or raising changes both of those, you need 0 degree camber and 1/16 inch toe for best tire wear, so get a print out of the spec's from the shop doing the alignment. Caster can play a small part in tire wear but not has much but does effect "Toe out in turns".
  2. Wow, what a mess, the AFM also turns off the injectors, but you need to get a HPTuner system (or something) and learn how to use it (alot of YouTube videos are there) cause you will need it!
  3. Why did the last trans fail?, did they flush out the Trans cooler/condenser good? if it was a Torque Converter failure and cooler was not flushed properly, or the new 152 degree trans stat is not working right, that's where I would start.
  4. Theres a lot involved on the Gen V LT (LS) motors when doing a DOD delete. I did that with my 18 'Rado, BTR stage 2 cam with Long tube headers. But before I did that, I got a HPTuner system and learned how to use it. So that said, what stage cam did you use? do you still have stock exhaust?, For me because of the long tubes I had to "Turn Off" the down stream O2 codes (using the HPTuner) because of the headers. So I suggest if you get a HPTuner system and watch a lot of YouTube videos on HPTuners, then you can learn how to reprogram your PCM and set up your fuel system to match your performance level. I had to even swap out my injectors from the L83 to L86 because the stock injectors couldn't keep up with my new power curve. (and also able to use stock Torque Converter)
  5. Sounds like you might have a high pressure fuel issue. GM 4.3L V6 EcoTec3 LV3 Engine Specs, Problems, Reliability, Oil since it is direct injected, it has high pressure fuel pump (HPFP, driven off the cam) so if there is any fuel restrictions from the low side or high side, that might cause the symptoms you are seeing.
  6. Did you do the work or did a shop?, hopefully you did cam AND lifters, I know you can replace the cam without changing the lifters, but Highly not recommended. now if the lifters were changed then the heads had to come off and also the VLOM. the oil sensor is on the VLOM (Vally Lifter Oil Manifold) and it is at the end of the oil circuit, if any "Mod's" were done to the VLOM then there could be an oil pressure loss there which could trigger the low oil problem (I know, it happened to me), but that doesn't explain the trans code. If the lifters were not changed then you could have internal engine damage. Did the oil pressure gauge show low oil pressure also, like below 20 psi?
  7. With the 6L80 trans all you need is a tune to set up your desired shifting points, the HPTuner can set all that up without changing any hardware.
  8. Needs a Battery
  9. then it might be time to add an additional Trans Cooler system.
  10. Sorry, but without much more info it could be many different things!, Codes?
  11. Sure it is the front brakes? It's common for the rear calibers to lock up because they're aluminum
  12. I also suggest cleaning the injector bores very well, I did mine, although they say no lube on the seals, I did put a "Tiny" bit of the 0W20 on them just to barely wet them. I didn't have any issues, just make sure you clean the bores, I used intake cleaner, and a nylon bore brush, then flushed with Brake Cleaner and dry. If for some reason one or more of the Teflon seals are damaged on new injectors (it happened to me) be sure to watch videos on how to install them, very critical!!
  13. Just like when you remove a Tstat from an engine, it may run cooler but if you run it hard you can get into a condition called "Thermal Runaway" where the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to dissipate the heat properly so you get an overheating condition, the same can happen it your trans, I see you did a thermal bypass for the Trans Tstat, that could be what you are seeing. The new GM Trans Thermal valve has the 152-degree tstat in it which should help meter that trans fluid to keep it cooler. Justn a thought!
  14. Don't forget to flush the cooler lines and Trans Cooler (in the condenser)!
  15. Also make sure you run the recommended 0W-20 oil in it, some people still seem the think "Thats too thin of oil for my vehicle (especially if you live down south)"
  16. Did you try starting it up with no belts installed?, try it, then you'll know it's not from the belts, but to me, it sounds like a timing chain or valve train noise. also listen to the vacuum pump closely.
  17. These are new bolts right?, you can't reuse the olds ones!! also I ask (because I've seen this before) 0-360 degrees in a circle not 0-100, 90 degrees is only 1/4 turn.
  18. There could be a cam timing issue, if the cam and crankshaft get too far out of alignment, say stretched chain or bad chain tensioner, or bad VVT phaser, this could be the cause. If your wiring checks out, then look into that.
  19. I did the same thing, your push rods are too long, once the oil pressure built up, it keeps the valves open, on my 2018 L83, it never had compression, had too measure the push rods I needed (with an adjustable pushrod tool) and get shorter ones. Hope you have a HPTuner, you'll need to "Retune"!
  20. I did the same thing with my 18 'Rado 5.3L, (BTR cam and long tubes) now I didn't see any of that on my cam plate, if that ware is between the cam phaser and plate, then something was "pulling" the cam inward forcing the phaser against the plate. If you are not the original owner, possibly someone had the motor out and something happen the cam end cap??, did you pull the cam yet?, did you see any bad ware on the lifter rollers?, might need to look into that a little further (also the HPFP, it uses a lifter too). Also are you familiar with HPTuners?, if not, you should get one and learn it, you'll need to do a lot of "Retuning" once you install all those go fast parts. Also you'll need to know a lot of fasteners can't be reused. suggest watching some YouTube videos on cam replacements for LS/LT motors. Good Luck!
  21. The reason for the Trans Tstat is because the trans fluid does not go thru the radiator like old school, it goes thur the top part of the AC condenser, so since there's no warm coolant to "warm up" the trans, the tstat does it. They do have an updated 152 degree trans thermal valve, you should get that. Just like your engine, you want your trans to be warmed up a little too.
  22. A lot to do on a heavy millage motor, if you're pulling it, I would take it down to the block, if cyl. walls are good, then cross hatch hone w/new rings. if you want to stay close to stock, pick a good "Stage 1" Cam from the aftermarket, BTR is my pick for LS/LT motors, and do the DOD delete. You still might have to install a small VVT limiter, then clean up the heads and I suggest investing in a HPTuner system and learn how to use it, you'll need it to turn off DOD systems and other things, Good Luck!
  23. The frequency of the sound doesn't seem to match the eng rpm, sounds more like possibly serpentine belt noise, try spraying wd40 on the belt while listening to it underneath and just see if it changes or goes away.
  24. I did the DOD delete on my 2018 L83, BTR stage 2 cam with long tube headers. Looking at your gas milage, I guess it is a 4WD, mine is a 2WD (shortbed), so doing mine "in the truck" was fairly easy (even in my single car garage and on jack stands) because you will need to pull the oil pan to do it right. So pulling the front drive to get oil pan off might be a little harder. I kept my stock converter, not really having any issue with that. But I suggest you also invest in a HPTuner system and learn how to use it (I did). Also there's a lot of parts not reusable once you pull it apart and make sure you research how to R+R the oil pump correctly to get it pack in place. It really helped the performance and got great low end torque and good HP increase!, Good luck!
  25. Since the oil pressure sensor is reading the very end of the oiling circuit, there may be an issue with the VLOM (under the intake manifold), that's what controls the AFM lifters, if there is a sufficient amount of oil "leakage" somewhere on that gasket or seals, that could cause the low pressure you are talking about. I have run into that before.
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