But as others have said, and the whole point of this post, it's not the wrong type of gas if the 6.2L engine runs fine with 87 and you're just running around town or whatever. If you need the performance (towing or hauling for example) then yeah, maybe fill up with premium because you're putting more load on the engine and you want to prevent detonation and pings and whatever. And yes, I did get the 5.3L because the hauling and towing I'm doing works just fine with the 5.3 and I save money.
LOL! The Vette will be a track car and weekend cruiser to the Tail of the Dragon and will definitely be filled with premium. The truck is a grocery getter/wood hauler/daily driver. I didn't buy my truck to race to every stoplight, kinda silly to do that in a truck IMO. I kinda like to buy things for their original purpose (sports car for racing, truck for hauling). Just calling out the people here who say to always use premium for their truck when I suspect the majority don't need to. But you do you bro!
I love this! I can just imagine all of the people with their 6.2L trucks racing everywhere they go, extracting EVERY OUNCE of performance from their engine. RAWR!!! Get it bro!!! When in reality, what we mostly do is go to Lowe's to pick up some wood, go to the grocery store, and drive our kids to school or other activities. Which is why I'm totally satisfied with my 5.3L running regular. I'll save the speed-racer fun for when I buy my Corvette in a few years Besides, I really do run my kids from place to place, no way in hell am I going to put them in danger by racing from stopl
You need to look at the 9400lbs and then combine that with the GVWR (truck weight + passengers/cargo) and make sure it does not exceed your GCWR. Your travel trailer is well within the capabilities of your truck. This website has more info https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-capacity
Sticker says 9400 and the truck is structurally capable of towing that much. That being said, most people with experience in towing recommend not going up to the max capable as driver skill may not be equal and any cross-wind or elevation changes will make it more difficult. It's recommended to stay around 80% of your max-tow (~7500 lbs) and your truck and driver should be able to handle it safely.
But freaking gas hoarders here in NC are keeping the pumps dry. The Colonial Pipeline has been back online, but gas is still hard to come by. I love my truck and I want to drive it. I want to head up into the mountains and go camping and off-roading. Sorry, just ignore me, I'm just venting. Enjoy your Monday!
no, not really, from their website (http://dashboard-light.com/faq.html#qir): And the fact they don't have real data for anything beyond 2015 for Tundras means their data is bullshit and I wouldn't trust that website as far as I can throw it. I think you've drunk the Toyota fanboy koolaid too. It's cool, I get it, you want to believe. You're saying all the cult-ish things those guys say too and making up facts to backup your beliefs. But you're probably not going to find a lot of believers on this site. As Jakerex said, I'm surprised you're not on that awesome Tundra forum you spoke so
I get what you're saying about the interior rattles. It's one of my pet peeves too. My TB has an annoying rattle coming from the back seat between 15-35 mph, but my money is that it's related to the Katzkins that I had installed. Other than that, my truck has been dead silent (except for the tires which is to be expected). This is the first GM truck I've owned after having a few Tacomas (for the most part pretty solid except the one that developed engine sludge) and an F150 EcoTurd (never again). I owned my Tacomas up to about 100K miles and my F150 started having problems at 100K as well. Hop
Where do you get your oil from? Usually Advanced Auto has their oil change specials, 5qts oil and a filter for $35. But then you have to buy 3 more qts at $10/each which brings the total to over $60. My dealership offers a $59 oil change, full synthetic and tire rotation. I can't see doing it myself anymore...
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