RWTJR

I stand corrected! I now see that you cannot remove it from displaying after opening the door but before starting. The instructions I referenced only apply to the "Info Pages" display in the DIC (where the hours can be removed by unchecking it). Sorry about the incorrect info I offered earlier. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Double Post

This (part #12707246) is the new PF63 that replaces the PF63E. Your manual probably calls for part # 12690385-PF63E but as you can see at the below site that filter has been superseded by the 12707246-PF63. Just make sure it's the PF63 with the proper part # (as pictured above) if you're looking for the PF63E. https://gmserviceinsights.com/new-acdelco-oil-filters-deliver-enhanced-performance/ This has caused a lot of confusion because ACDELCO/GM decided to rename the filter from the PF63E. Therefore it's important to have the correct part number for your PF63 application. This post is not directed at/to the OP. I just chose this post because use it's an excellent picture of the new filter part number. This is just information directed to, and for the benefit of, the general forum population. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

You should be able to remove it through your DIC Info Page Options (Pg. Numbers 125-127 in the below Owner's Manual). https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2021/gmc/sierra-1500/2021-gmc-sierra-1500-owners-manual.pdf JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Sad To say, My rear window is leaking for the second time. Yep, fixed once already and now it's leaking again. My truck doesn't even have 7000 miles on it yet. Stopped by the dealership to see about repair and was told they would need it for 2 days (one day for the leak test and one day for repair) and no loaners are available because they have all been returned to sales stock. I told the service advisor how nice it is that they are screwing over existing customers so they have the stock to make new customers (I have purchased 5 vehicles from this dealership in the last 3 years). She said, trust me I hear that everyday, we're not happy about it either. I don't think I'll buy another GM product. It's too bad, I think the Silverado is the best looking truck available these days. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Sadly this looks like another case of either a troll (this was first and only post) or another poster who posts and never checks back in or provides follow up information. I checked the poster's profile and he/she/they/them hasn't visited the site since February. I just checked the RSI website and it shows them on backorder for the 5'8" bed. https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/products/smartcap-evo JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Let me see if I am understanding this correctly. Your tailgate is closed and the cord and plug from the tailgate are hanging down and accessible. Is that correct? If you can access the plug from the tailgate side you may be able to access the the male or female connectors inside the plug and apply some voltage using an outside source, i.e., a 12 volt battery, charger, etc., to activate the locking mechanism. I Installed an aftermarket version on a previous truck (Colorado) and was actually able to activate the locking mechanism using a 9 volt battery. I did so to test it's function before closing up the access panel. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Yes, sadly what you have found is true. GM/OnStar is missing the boat on this one. I suspect if they offered the services at a MUCH better price point they would pick up a lot of subscribers. Instead they choose to gouge those who buy the services. The services included in the purchase of the vehicle are really pretty useless with the possible exception of the vehicle diagnostics. I have SiriusXM in 3 vehicles. Why? because they let me negotiate the price down to $5 a month per vehicle. I wouldn't even consider it at the regular $14.99 a month but at $5, I'm in (I live is a small town with few FM choices). If OnStar offered the "Essentials" for $10 a month, instead of $40, I'd have that in 3 vehicles too. They would be making $30 a month off me instead of the $0 they are making now. I probably still would only use it rarely but I would buy it as a type of insurance. Phone apps cover many of the services provided by OnStar for free and you can access the 5 years free GM road service via the GM customer service number. Put the GM number on speed dial and it's as easy as pushing the OnStar button for road service. I found during my free OnStar trail periods the only thing I used was the remote entry/start from the phone app (mostly as a novelty, not a necessity). $180 a year so I can basically unlock/start my vehicle from my phone is pretty steep, IMHO. If you read the threads on OnStar services, you'll see many, if not most, people don't feel it passes the cost-vs-benefit analysis. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Same here.

I suggest you read this 217 page thread about the sliding rear window leaks before you decide to install an OEM rear slider. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/216705-rear-window-leak/ JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Yes, one of the things a pickup truck is designed to do is carry stuff. However some may have suggested a trailer because your towing capacity is probably 5 times your payload carrying capacity. So where as an 1800 lb load of dirt may be over your 1625 lb payload max, it's no where near your towing max capacity. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

double post, sorry

Below is my go-to unless it needs some serious attention, then I use a dilution of SuperClean. https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-quik-interior-detailer-g13616-16-oz-spray If I need additional protection, I go with Aerospace 303. I don't put anything on the floor mats. Just wash them with a dilution of SuperClean and give them a good rinse. I don't risk making them slippery when wet (or dry for that matter).

If the dealership balanced them twice without resolving the issue then they should still be looking for the source of the problem. Have you told the dealership they haven't fixed the problem? If so, what did they say? if not, that's your next step. I wouldn't let the dealership off the hook yet, there's plenty they can do other than just a basic spin balance, i.e., PicoScope with NVH kit, Road Force Balance, rotate tires, replace tires, etc., etc. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

I am suspect under the intended use you describe you would not likely have an issue. However it does prompt some thoughts: Why does GM use extended CV axles on the TB/AT4 which is only a 2" lift over the standard 1500 series truck? Why does the only factory authorized lift sold on the GM accessories web page include longer CV axles? In both cases the droop stops remain in place restricting the movement, yet, GM still thinks it's important to extend the CV axles. Why is it often recommended to remove, or at least loosen, the CV axles from the wheel spindle to reduce the stress when replacing the strut assembly? Aftermarket parts are often an improvement over factory parts and automotive engineers aren't all geniuses (I have 2 in my family). However, it does make one wonder why GM would go through the trouble of having 2 different length CV axles if lifting on the standard axle length didn't present some issues during testing and development. Just some thoughts. No expertise implied or expressed

Apparently NOT! Here he is installing a Curt Spectrum in place of his failed attempt at the OEM ITBC.

Nice! I asked if you were sure, not because I question your claim, because I have read other posts where people claimed to have had the factory ITBC installed only to find out it was an aftermarket brake controller installed by their dealership (so they assumed it was the factory setup). I wonder why the vast majority of posters on this and other forums were told it couldn't be done? Dealerships have actually lost truck sales because they said they couldn't do it. If it's that easy, it seems they would be offering to install them to make the sale instead of telling people it can't be done. Even a search of the 42 towing accessories listed at the Chevrolet Accessories web page for the 2020 Silverado shows only 2 brake controllers available, the Curt Spectrum and the Curt Echo. Why wouldn't they list the OEM option if it's available and so simple to install? Did the dealership provide you with any documentation regarding the install that you can share with others to assist them in their quest to get this done? Personally this is not an issue for me as my truck came with the factory ITBC, I am just hoping someone can provide some clear and convincing evidence so this can be definitely be answered and others can get the ITBC installed as they wish. Right now everyone is at the mercy of their possibly ignorant dealership. Any documentation that can be shown to the dealership would be useful. I am not trying to be difficult or argumentative. It is just the vast majority of posts, on this forum and others, claim this can't be done and those that claim it can have never (that I've seen) provided evidence of such. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Are you sure it is a factory integrated brake controller? It should look like the picture attached if it is a factory integrated brake controller (the subject of this thread). If it doesn't look like the picture than it's just an aftermarket brake controller your dealership sells.

Seeing that one of the goals of a public truck forum is to help fellow owners, it would be really helpful if anyone who has had this done provided some documentation and photos, if available. The common belief is this can't be done. This forum, and others, have plenty of stories of failed attempts and only a couple that claim success. So again, if you have had this done, how about providing copies of the work orders, (redacted of course) photos of the completed install, (before and after would be even better), and help clarify this issue. Otherwise, it is just another unsubstantiated internet claim. I know I was told by 3 dealerships that it couldn't be done on my 2018 Colorado, That's why I purchased my SIlverado with the factory brake controller. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed.

This will be a true test of your truck. Please let us know what you decide on your suspension and how the truck does with the trip as it may be of helpful to others. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

I think some of you might find this new thread interesting:

Just because the engineered design allows for movement through a specific range doesn't mean it's designed to operate in that condition on a regular basis long term. The engine is designed to run up to red line, so it must be okay to run at red line on all the time, right? I mean, it's in the engineered range of operation so it must be okay, just drive in 2nd gear all the time. GM engineered the front suspension to run from a 0" lift on the standard 1500 to the 2" lift on the TB/AT4. Does that mean the suspension travel doesn't allow for a 3.5" (or 1.5" on the TB) lift to be installed? No. Does it mean it was actually engineered and designed for a 3.5" lift?, also No. Droop normally occurs when the wheel/suspension is not under load on a truck without additional lift. Lifted, that same droop/ball joint angle now occurs under continuous load. So is the ball joint designed to be under load on a continuous basis at the higher angle now created by the droop that's a result of the additional lift? Just because the suspension moves through that range of motion doesn't necessarily mean it's designed to be under continuous, or additional, load throughout that entire, or even a greater, range of movement. You can run a tire under inflated under extreme conditions (off road for example) and some are engineered for that type of usage. That doesn't mean it's engineered be run at highway speeds while under inflated. Just as suspension is designed to droop for travel on varying terrain, or pot holes, it may not be designed to be artificially drooped (specially under load) at all times by a lift over 2". However, just like you can run an underinflated tire at highway speeds (I don't recommend it), you can run a suspension at lift imposed droop at all times (doesn't mean it was engineered to do so). The theory that because a component is engineered to perform under varying conditions on a short term or sporadic basis, it's engineered to run in that condition continuously and long term is questionable. GM engineered the factory suspension to function properly from 0" to 2" of lift (or standard 1500 to TB/AT4). Any claim otherwise is pure conjecture. If anyone can provide GM engineering specs that claim otherwise, I'll happily eat my words. Just as I wouldn't drive with my engine at red line (designed to hit red line under certain conditions) or highway speeds on an underinflated tire (designed for underinflated use under certain conditions), I wouldn't lift a standard 1500 over 2" or a TB/AT4 at all with factory components. The absence of failure is not a confirmation of appropriate usage. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

I think this is what has prompted all the discussion about consistency and protocol adherence in measurement because this defies logic. I am not stating or implying you aren't losing/burning oil at an accelerated rate because you could be. I am just saying without following the measurement protocol it's impossible to rule out a measurement error. So the question is, are you actually burning/losing oil in an illogical, erratic fashion or does it just appear so due to how you're checking your oil? If the truck is actually burning/losing oil in the manner described, I'd get rid of it. Please let us know what you discover. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

Realtruck.com is the online retail division of Truck Hero. Truck Hero now owns all of these brands (from their website): " Truck Hero’s industry-leading family of brands includes Advantage Truck Accessories™, Alloy USA®, AMP Research®, A.R.E.®, Auto Ventshade®, BAK Industries®, BACKRACK®, BedRug®, Belmor®, Bushwacker®, Extang®, Husky Liners®, LUND®, N-FAB®, OMIX™, Rampage Products®, Retrax®, RoadWorks®, Roll-N-Lock®, Rugged Liner®, Rugged Ridge®, Stampede™, Superlift®, Tonno Pro®, TruXedo®, UnderCover®, and an online retailer, RealTruck®. " You'll notice Go Rhino is not one of their brands (read between the lines). The advertised price for the GO Rhino RB20 Running Boards is the same on RealTruck.com and Autoanything.com. However, my experience with Autoanything.com is that if you use the chat or call and tell them you are looking for a better price, they often offer a discount. I always use the chat and they send me a link to the discounted price. Of course now that you asked to cancel the order it will magically ship. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed

I agree and so does the 2020 manual (pg.336): Follow these guidelines: To get an accurate reading, park the vehicle on level ground. Check the engine oil level after the engine has been off for at least two hours. Checking the engine oil level on steep grades or too soon after engine shutoff can result in incorrect readings. Accuracy improves when checking a cold engine prior to starting. Remove the dipstick and check the level. (emphasis added) Good way to insure "the engine has been off for at least two hours" and the oil is checked "prior to starting" is to check it before for the first drive/start of the day. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed