Another JR

I was thinking in terms of an objective measure of compression, like how close you are to the overload springs or how close you are to the stop bumpers. Our eyes are pretty good at estimating measurements in the 0 to 6 inch range, and especially good in the 0 to 3 inch range. I have not had enough loading experience with my new truck to be there yet, but on my old K2500 truck I could certainly tell you within 500 lbs how much was in the bed by looking at how far the axle was from the bumpers based on knowing the weights from weighed dump runs. I just think tire pressure won’t get you close because the pressure change isn’t that great. The TPMS only displays whole numbers, is slow, and has hysteresis built in. In addition, most of the weight change is handled by deformation of the tire and increase in the footprint rather than straight pressure rise as if the tire was like a piston in a cylinder. If you could measure the footprint and the pressure change you’d get closer, but even then the footprint pressure on the ground isn’t uniform. I think we are close to seeing real time load displays in new truck, but they will be based on sensors associated with the suspension system and not the tires for good reason. In the meantime, I still think measuring or eyeballing suspension compression is going to be more accurate than trying to use TPMS. Nothing wrong with looking at it and seeing if you can make it work for you, though.

Did they need a WDH?

I was involved many years ago with the mount system cone bolts a bit, but I never saw any 727 JT8D hardware. I did work on some 737-200 hushkit projects where we saw the changes being made on aircraft. I started working at the time of the 747-400 original program and the 767 introduction of FADEC/EEC engine installations in the late 80s.

1954 The Long Long Trailer 16

You ever see the Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz movie where they buy a trailer and she rides in it and tries to cook? That’s what I picture.

I think a far better method for crude load estimation is to get to know how much the rear suspension compresses at given weights.

Quite a few states allow passengers to ride in a travel trailer. Discuss.

Buy one set of black floor mats?

Torque converter?

Deleted double post

The runs from your solar panel connectors to your solar charger and from the solar charger to the batteries are short, so 10 awg is fine for 30 amps without excessive voltage drop. My camper has 10 awg wire from the solar panels to the charger. You shouldn’t need to replace your solar system wiring. With the long run from the truck to the dc to dc converter near the camper battery, voltage drop becomes an issue. The dc to dc charger raises the voltage to the camper battery for charging, but if the drop on the input side is excessive the charger has to keep stopping to check if the engine is still running, unless you run a separate ignition on signal to it. It’s better to just run adequate wire gage from the truck. 6 awg for a 30 amp charger and 8 awg for a 18 amp charger will be sufficient for the Victron Orions to avoid charger cycling.

I ran 6awg Ancor marine type 3 positive wire from the right side main battery fuse block across the top of the firewall along a factory bundle to the left side. I ran the 6awg negative wire from a large body ground post near the aux battery on the left side. Those wires then go down to the frame below the brake booster and run back on top of the left frame member alongside a large factory wire bundle. They then run up between the rear of the cab and the bed and over the top of the bed with a 2 foot pigtail and a booted SB50 connector. The entire length of both wires is covered with split loom sleeving. The camper has a mating connector and the same wire type all the way to the dc to dc charger. The main reason to go down the left side is that the exhaust is on the right side on my GMC truck. Same reason the factory bundle is on the left. I have 200 ah of lithium battery in my camper. I use about 30-35 ah per day depending on weather. I decided on a 30 amp dc to dc charger based on the idea that I can add another day’s worth of charge for every hour I drive. I considered going bigger but not smaller than 30 amps. The price difference between the 18 amp and 30 amp chargers is $170 vs $227. I don’t know why you would need to rewire to change from a PWM charger to an MPPT charger. What are you thinking you need to change?

Picture of my dc to dc charger installation in my camper battery compartment.

I agree with them. I see now you said it clearly above, but I didn’t notice you were talking about a lithium battery being involved. I have a Victron 30 amp dc to dc charger I installed two years ago in my truck camper and am happy to answer questions about it and the wiring involved.

The bolt and nuts are the same size and thread. They appear to be metric class 8.8. Outer diameter of the threads is a hair under 8mm, so they appear to be 8mm bolt and nut. Coarse thread. Length of shank and threads of bolt is 30mm. The bolt head and the nut take a 13mm socket. Both the nut and bolt have a captured washer that rotates freely but can’t be separated, and the washers are smooth with no locking feature or teeth of any kind. Pictures to follow.

I’m going to pull my camper off later this morning (PST) if the rain stops. I can measure the sizes for you once it’s off. It’s Seattle, though, so you might have to wait until July.

Aftermarket controllers can be installed. The controller itself needs to be installed where it can be reached by the driver and wires can be routed to it. It needs to connect electrically to 12 volt power, the brake light circuit, and the trailer harness brake control wire. It is often done as a diy item, but requires wiring knowledge and skill. A good source of information on the work involved would be the installation instructions for a controller, which would be available on the manufacturer’s web site, and youtube videos.

Deleted - didn’t know what was meant by “China bomb.”

Note that the ACR just passes the current of the circuit it is on - not the entire alternator output necessarily. The trailer circuit is 10 awg wire and there will be quite a bit of voltage drop at, say, 30 amps. You would fuse that circuit as well.

Are you aware of this type of product? It will do what you want without you having to do the wiring you are talking about. https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1366

You should be able to add or subtract options right up to the week before the build week, assuming the parts are available.

I bought the second battery to support an on-board air compressor for reinflating the tires after airing down off road. The bigger alternator was to make sure I had plenty of current available at idle to run the compressor, recover the start battery quickly, and charge my camper batteries at 35 amps (worst case load). I also bought the high idle switch option but didn’t want to have to use it. Again, I didn’t want to kick myself later and those options were all pretty inexpensive.

In 2021 I went the other way with an SLT plus packages over an AT4. I’m not someone who loves chrome, but i did not want painted bumpers on a truck. That was the deciding factor for me. Otherwise i like the more blacked out look of the AT4. This is the first vehicle I’ve had with all the driving safety warning systems. At the time I ordered I really only wanted some of those features, but after using it a while I really like all of the warning features, and they work quite well. Suggestion: Get the 220 amp alternator and the second battery. It’s way cheaper to order them than it is to add them later if you decide you want them.