64BAwagon

@Low Down is correct, there is a GM document for the door sill upgrade. Thats where you can get the dome lamp power for the lights. You will need a "Molex" pin to place in the block for the power. I have posted on it several times. Accessing the block is very hard since its under the dash and the farthest one forward. Correct orientation of the Molex pin is very important. Page 23 and 24 is where the info you seek can be found https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/products/documents/isheets_85527849.pdf @newdude first posted the link in an earlier thread.

These people have no authority or power to do anything for you. They are simply there to placate you. Suggesting that they pointed out resources or contacts to the dealer is ridiculous, the dealers are well aware of the slim resources they have for problem cases and although I am no big fan of most dealers they are limited by GM's policies.

Its a bit of a dance to get the cams just tight enough where they dont have any slop in them but still be able to get them to lock in. I put some lube on mine to lock them in easier.

Sounds like the stuff from E-trailer doesnt integrate with the truck. Not sure how that is GM's fault. The fact that it doesnt integrate with the upfitter items you tried to add isnt an indication IMHO of it not meeting any standards. The new trucks are very sophisticated electronically and ant changes to them can have far reaching implications. I would research as much as possible on RV forums for others with similar issues and see if they had solutions. It very possible that you will need to use additional lights other than the OEM ones on the truck. There are few, if any dealer level people that have the training and talent to troubleshoot issues like this. GM has little to no tolerance for people modifying the vehicles other than qualified upfitting companies. Just because a dealer made a claim that something would work for a particular purpose does not mean it actually will. Dealers are notorious for wild claims.

I havent towed with mine yet, I am waiting for the new 5th wheel hitch to arrive. The guy that bought my 2024 made me an offer if I would leave my old hitch in the truck. I got about 20% less than the price of a new one in exchange for my 5 yr old one. That way he didnt have to mess with the RV dealer to get it installed, his new trailer was similar to mine. On a side note, the 2025 I just bought cost us approximately 10 times what my first new truck did in 1981. The 81 wasnt a 3500 diesel for sure but it was a common model back then, V8 shorthbed

I only have a few hundred miles on mine right now but I have never once seen it in first gear, always starts in second.

Both were 3500's identically optioned with dual batteries. The 2025 had the L5P, dual alternators, upfitter switches and the high idle option. The rest is exactly the same RPO codes as the 2024 other than the 2025 is Sterling Gray and the 2024 was Cajun red tintcoat which may have added a few ounces due to the tri coat paint. LOL. I am sure all the ancillary equipment for the emissions items you mentioned add quite a bit to it. I know the rear diff on the diesel does have additional gussets that the gasser didnt but I dont know for certain that the ring gear size is different. I do know that they were both underfilled by a qt of gear oil so that remains the same.

My 2025 is an exact duplicate of my 2024 gasser except for the Duramax and the dual alternator setup, it weighs 800# more than my gasser.

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I mis spelled my comment, it should have said "or" instead of "of" I was speaking of two different engines that used the high pressure oil system to drive the injectors. The 466 is used in a lot of vocational trucks and many school busses. It also comes rebadged as a Detroit diesel series 40.

It was on a slight incline but not nearly enough to account for extra. I always let my vehicles drain since I am in no hurry. I just thought it was coincidental to the Banks rants. Not that he doesnt have a point but he surely has heard of the 7.3L Ford/International OR Internationals DT466, those things retained some oil in the high pressure system for sure. The DT466 dipstick never looked like it had clean oil on it even 15 minutes after changing it. I am not going to lose any sleep over it for sure. I can still recall the days when it wasnt uncommon to do a half oil change with filter on a heavy truck. I believe it was referred to as "sweetening" the existing oil to save the cost of a full change.

I recently changed the oil in my new 2025 L5P Duramax along with a new PF63 filter. It took 11 qts to get the dipstick to read at the top of the full mark. I thought this was a 10 qt engine ? Could it be that the pan was revised for a more thorough drain ? Banks has been making a big deal out of the pan not draining completely. Anyone else notice this ?

I am sure the tech will figure it out.

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Dorman makes pans with drain holes for some applications. Rockauto has them at the best price.

I would look at a plug from Pollak since thats who makes the ones GM uses. Your assumption that you need the make plug for the receptacle is correct.

Both the 5.3 and the 6.2 will go away. Rumors are that the new engines will be 5.7L and 6.6L

Yes, I did grease the fittings on the front end by adding a few pumps of grease to each. This has been discussed widely in a bunch of places. I know for a fact that all of the parts on the front end do in fact have grease in them. When the supplier manufactures the parts they put grease on the joints during assembly. The fact that there isnt any additional grease added through the fitting is not an indication that the part has not been greased. I added a 3 or 4 pumps to the ball joints and tie rod ends, the Pitman arm and idler only took one each. I only put about 5k miles a year on my truck so I am good until next spring.

Yes. I have the pages reconfigured. It was an easy swap. I created the 3 pages with some core monitors and then specific ones on each. Page 1 is general use, page 2 is towing and page 3 is for stuff to monitor just because I can. That way I can scroll; through them when on a long trip. I have found the boost gauge valuable for mileage when towing

I pulled the oval ones on the bottom as well as the two bigger size ones on the vertical inner rocker. I carpet bombed the rockers. Cheap insurance against a very expensive truck. I rarely drive my truck up here in the winter and my goal for years has been to not be in the salt belt during the heart of the winter. I have used the Delvac 1300 in the past as well as all the trucks at work and its proven itself many times. I am running the Extreme due to Walmart having it at a great price and a solid rebate. I still have a 5 gal pail and 2 gallon jugs in inventory.

We had a (finally) warm 70 degree sunny day yesterday so I spent the afternoon doing an oil change on the truck (it only had 200 miles but someone had been idling it a lot before I got it because it had 10 hrs on the engine) I always do a change when they are new. 11 qts of Mobil Delvac extreme and a Champion labs PH10063 (same as the AC) went into it along with the Fumoto valve. Since I had it on the ramps I decided to rustproof the rockers inside and out so I fired up the compressor and spent the next couple of hours protecting my investment. I have one or 2 little things to do and the truck will all set.

My truck(s) go from short hops to the store and lumber yard to 1100 mile each way trips. Both are tough on oil. The last trip was over 3000 miles total with some day trips during that time, probably 80 % of it towing. FWIW, I didnt have to add any oil before, during or after the trip.

It varied. The vast majority was towing but typically less than 5k. I never liked to leave on a trip without fresh oil. The OLM usually would zero out around 7k but I never got close to that. I also changed the oil when new at the 500 mile mark. I buy all my supplies on sale or clearance so I spend way less than most people.

Both mine had a 12k trailer behind them at 500 miles. Never added a drop of oil to either one between oil changes. I used either Kirkland 5W30 or GM Dexos full syn on them.

My understanding from the very early 80's when I worked for a GM supplier and interacted with many GM people is that the west coast dealers complained about their costs to ship so loudly that GM decided on a flat rate. I wasnt in the negotiations so I couldnt say for certain but thats the story I heard consistently. We were wired in enough that my boss at the time had his newer Bonneville picked up by the guys at Pontiac motors and returned the next day with a brand new engine because the original one was going sour.