bruceb58

I just don't carry things in the same pocket as my key fob.

Try calibrating it with a new trailer profile. That's what I had to do to get the trailer TPMS to work. Possibly, similar issue. For me it was the height. Once I lowered it, it calibrated fine.

Yes it is. In my signature.

This is my truck before I added the WDH. Even with the initial rake, I am now down in the back. With the WDH, I am perfectly level. Tongue weight for my boat is 600#. With my travel trailer that also weighs 6500# but with 800# of tongue weight. With the WDH set up, it is perfectly level.

Do you ever tow or haul heavy loads in your bed? If yes, do not level.

First of all, what does the parking brake have anything to do with front wheel bearings. Second, the HD trucks have drum parking brakes so you don't have to put them into service mode. Third, I have the OEM service manual and there is nothing in there about brake service mode. Maybe you can point out where it says to do that. In my 2024 OEM service manual, it says to unplug the brake pad sensor...that is it! There is one brake pad sensor in the front and one in the rear. If you are replacing front wheel bearings, you are disconnecting ONE sensor. Show a Youtube link that discusses this on a Heavy Duty truck.

Service mode on a 2500HD?

I still use a WDH towing a 25' 6500# camper. Just got back from AZ with 25MPH crosswinds and even with the WDH still had some sway. Glad I had the WHD on. I travel at 62 MPH max even in states without a trailer speed limit.

Use an OEM hub/sensor?

Love the 10 speed with 6.6 gas towing 6500#. Best vehicle I have ever towed with.

Yes...been doing this for the last 20 years!

Yes...my WAG was correct...depressurize the high side for the DI.

There are two pressure sensors...one is to control the fuel pump pressure in the tank and the other is on the high pressure fuel rail. I have a feeling your depressurize command is for the high pressure rail but that's just a WAG.` There is a one way check valve after the tank fuel pump to maintain pressure in the line to prevent long starts. I have the service manual and there are a number of things to check, You may just want to take to some one who services these trucks or the dealer. Shotgunning parts is going to be an expensive endeavor. Are you not under warranty? How do you know you have weak injectors?

I got rid of my electric brakes, but before I did, I was close to being proactive and doing homeruns for the wires from each wheel to a junction box. The way trailer manufacturers daisy chain the brake wires just sucks to troubleshoot. You can do a resistance measurement and get a somewhat good idea if all the magnets are in the chain but way easier if you can take one off at a time at a junction box.

You typically get larger payload numbers with gas. My 2024 GMC Denali 3/4T has 3346# of payload. My max gooseneck tongue weight is 2760#

That Dorman pan looks like a perfect replacement for the 6.6L gas engine too since the exhaust travels over the pan near the rear of the pan.

That is the level plug. You pull the plug so that the fluid goes to the level of the standpipe and that is the proper running level. It's not a drain plug.

GM heavy duty trucks have the old hydraulic assisted power steering. In order to have lane keep and super cruise, it needs to be electronically assisted power steering. Hopefully, the heavy duty trucks get it someday but don't hold your breath.

If you look at my profile picture, that is Sterling Metallic on my 24 GMC Denali.

I am assuming you checked the pressure with a tire gauge to compare with what the TPMS is telling you?

If I wasn't towing a LOT like I do, I would still be in a 1/2T truck. Would probably still be driving my F-150. I was slightly above my rear axle rating so I made the switch to 3/4T. My 1/2T wasn't a daily driver and definitely I wouldn't want the 3/4T as a daily driver.

That would be it since the GCWR has nothing to do with suspension and it's total weight dictated by the engine/transmission/differential combo...which is the same between the DRW and SRW.

Buy once...cry once.

Even with a lead acid battery, I would get a DC to DC charger since you need to isolate it anyway. There is NO way I would go lead acid for that battery. Lithiums are too inexpensive to not do.

I would just buy a pan with a drain plug. Both PML and PPE make them for the 6L90. I have the 10 speed and PML already makes one for it and PPE is working on one. I will be changing the pan on my first ATF change which will be 30K miles or less.