Leevon

I wish I could say I notice a difference, but honestly I don't. I do feel like the rear Bilsteins are a little firm. Which is strange...I had Bilstein 5100s on all four corners of my 2018 Silverado and the ride improvement was very noticeable. It was softer on the small bumps but firm and "planted". That's what I was hoping for.

Installed Fox 2.0 coilovers, Rough Country upper control arms, Bilstein 5100 rear shocks and alignment. FYI the Fox shocks are supposed to be factory height for Trail Boss / AT4 but they gave 1" lift...perfect actually.

Ugghh, then on the flip side they can be militant about oil with warranty claims. I just saw a major claim denied recently due to use of non-factory oil. I own a high volume shop, we do oil changes and I even stock the same exact bulk Dexos 0w20 that the dealerships here use from the same distributor. It is our duty to make sure our customers are complying with their manufacturer's recommendations especially when they're warrantied. Yet because of incompetent people and poor processes at the dealers I feel like I have to change my own oil. I do it using AC Delco filters and AC Delco oil that I purchase from the dealership (the one I get warranty work done at) on account. I take the dealer invoice, complete with part numbers and quantities, plus an invoice from my shop time-stamped and dated including mileage and oil life percentage and staple the filter box top to it all. Come at me with a warranty denial! Actually had a lifter drop in my wife's '17 Tahoe and they asked for oil change records, I texted a picture of my binder with one example and that was that.

I think so. They had ordered three arrival blue, two just like this and one 5.3L. So there is a twin, but I think we're probably the only arrival blue 6.2 Trail Bosses out there right now.

Yes no problem. I have had a 2018 Sierra that was plagued with the highway vibration that couldn't be resolved. A 2018 Silverado that was perfect but got wrecked by an a-hole. A 2019 Trail Boss that had lots of problems but I loved it anyways...and now a 2020 Trail Boss that didn't leave the lot with 14 miles before a check engine light. And I'll buy another one. My tolerance is high though, and I'm a GM fan I guess for what that's worth. I'm the guy who replaced his rear slider with solid glass DIY, and I'd do that again anytime over buying a Ford or Dodge and hoping they don't have any problems. I think people believe GM's quality control is poor, which it *could* be, but my opinion and experience in the industry as a shop owner is that technology is outpacing the ability to service it on the backed for ALL new cars. This isn't limited to GM.

They do make pedal response feel great, no doubt. Be aware though, GM issued TSB #13-08-116-001E: AFTERMARKET ALDL OR DLC INTERFACE DEVICES CAUSING MULTIPLE ISSUES. Basically is states that if any aftermarket ALDL connector device is installed and causes problems or is detected at the dealership then it will be entered into your warranty as "suspected tampering" IE VOIDED WARRANTY. Can this happen? Absolutely. Recently bought my wife a 2017 Tahoe with low miles, it went in to limp mode a week or so after we bought it and left my wife and kids stuck. I brought it to my shop and discovered it had a pedal commander (which I was unaware of) that had caused communication issues. Fortunately the fix for me was simply to remove it, and clear the codes. Had it been ran through the dealer, there would be a risk of voided warranty. Also, I had a Hypertech on my 2019 Silverado for tire size correction. I had intermittent communication failures that almost mirrored the description in the TSB perfectly, which left me stranded three times. After removing the device, truck is back to normal. Again, had that made it to the dealership, my truck would be flagged for suspected tampering. I don't like it, t just making ya'll aware. I am batting 0/2 with ALDL devices.

I did not want them and I don't like them functionally. They'll get sold soon as I get some AMP power steps. I also didn't want a sunroof, those two items alone cost me an extra $2000 but I wanted arrival blue so be it.

Thanks! I feel like I hit the truck lottery

Sold my '19 Trail Boss LT for this Arrival Blue '20 Trail Boss LT w/ 6.2L.

I think they were $450 ish each.

I have a set sitting here waiting for install, got them in April off Ebay.

RadoPhan, The solid window is just plain glass squished onto the body with a thick bead of urethane, like a windshield. The slider has a thin plastic frame permanently adhered to the glass (see photos).

Trail Boss 5.3. 23,000 miles 14.7 mpg average. The average over time is the only thing that matters if you're comparing. It doesn't matter if someone says they got 24mpg on a trip to grandma's last week!

No sir, it has a plastic frame that is bonded to the glass, it's very thin and cracked in two places (that's the root of the problem). It's garbage or I would have fixed and re-used.

I had about 4 hours total into it. Removing the seat back is a little tricky, the headliner is a little tricky and cutting the window out is a pure pain because the slider track limits access to the bottom seal.

Today I finished up my slider to solid window conversion. Would I do it again? Yes. But cutting the urethane seal to remove the glass is a pain and I'd leave that step to a pro next time to save the aggravation. I can say confidently that these leaks COULD be fixed by removing the spoiler and sealing the top of the sliding window IF performed with the right products and extra cleaning and care. Replacing the glass is overkill. But with a slider you'll always have a cracked window frame, unless the design is eventually fixed and the glass is replaced. The TSB is incomplete in my opinion, the products recommended are inadequate and the likelihood that it will be done properly at the dealership is a huge gamble obviously. If you want to seal the window frame then use a self-leveling urethane or seam sealer type product. Sealing the spoiler bolt holes is also critical, although I'd argue the majority of leaks are probably the frames not the holes. No matter who does the work, your headliner will have be molested, paint may be scratched removing the glass and something will probably break (a trim clip etc). The solid glass cost me $257 and took a week to get through my dealer parts account. I spent about $120 on 3M products and specialty tools. I used 3M urethane primer, 3M window weld and 3M strip caulk. One tube of window weld (sealer) did the job. I rolled the strip caulk like play-dough and put it around all of the bolts. Once tightened, it squeezed through all holes and made a nice permanent seal. After the glass had been in for a couple of hours and the spoiler was replaced and everything buttoned up I put the truck outside just in time for a huge rain storm and it passed the test.

FYI depending on how the lifters fail, IF there is any metal in the oiling system, your cam and main bearing life is basically doomed. Lifter repair is a band aid. Sucks man sorry!

DIY Spoiler removal / access to the top of the window with some more detail than found in the TSB: 1. Remove B-pillar seat belt bezel 2. Remove upper rear corner of the door seal from the pinch weld to get access to first the B-pillar trim clips 3. Release the B-pillar trim clip closest to the door with a screwdriver to get them started or just pull the whole thing if you're brave (there are 3 metal trim clips on the bottom and 1 at the top) 4. Remove the small bolt/retainer holding wiring from the back of the B-pillar trim 5. Remove both rear coat hooks (un-clip the face from the inner most side with a small tool) and remove bolt 6. Pull the headliner down (you WILL have to molest it some to get it down past the window track) then reach toward the rear middle and give it some separation, there are two retainers in the back, now you have the rear mostly down. Yes it will crease a little, it's not permanent if you're careful. 7. Using a long screwdriver and/or pry or trim tool with a light reach into the back of the dome light and separate the two metal trim clips. Now you have adequate access to the headliner. 8. There are 4 10mm bolts, 8 10mm nuts and 2 retainers. The nuts and bolts are easy. Long curved needle nose will do the trick on the retainers. From there you can see just how piss poor the design of this spoiler and window is. All of the water on top of and around the spoiler channels to the top of the window where there is a deep "gutter". There is a lightweight foam sealer at the top of the spoiler doing little to nothing to route water around the dozen holes. You will also notice that there is little to no sealing on the many holes for fasteners and retainers in the roof. I found 1, yes ONE! seal on the bolts. The flange of the nuts in the spoiler have small o-rings on them. This is all mind-boggling really. Both side of my window frame are cracked about 6" from the edge, as most others have found. The urethane window seal to the body is fine. If you want to seal the frame yourself, you should clean out the giant "gutter" on top of the window with soapy water and a brush and forget about using crap silicone. Get some self-leveling urethane or better yet body seam sealer that will adhere and remain elastic. There is no way that Kent silicone will do any good long term. If you're like me and you want to get rid of this crap slider, stay tuned I will post that DIY after the new GM solid window arrives.

Stay tuned ya'll...I just ordered a solid rear glass to convert my slider. This might seem crazy to some but my options are 1) let the dealer "fix" the leak and we all know how that is turning out or 2) trade the truck or 3) fix it myself permanently. I like the truck, don't want to trade it and I never wanted the slider anyway and I definitely don't want silicone goobered all over a $55k truck so solid window it is. The GM glass is coming out of Canada apparently there isn't much inventory. I am going to do some dis-assembly and prep this weekend I'll let ya'll know how it goes!

Another one down. 23K miles and I thought maybe I dodged the bullet until now, sigh. August 2018 build date.

Oh wow sorry you're dealing with this. What a crappy dealership, which one is it?

Today? Drove it like I stole it because gas is like $1. Hammer down!

Kevin, same truck same level kit here. I finally decided on the Rough Country forged aluminum arms (of course apples and oranges compared with the big boy stuff) but for a stock replacement with improved angle they are much higher quality than I expected and will be direct fit. The bushings are same as factory arms, the ball joint seems decent. I don't have any reason to go all out and I tend to not keep trucks very long so I don't want to give away big $ mods. These fit my needs for $399. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-forged-aluminum-upper-control-arms-29501.html

Mike, thank you so much for the information! I just installed 5100 rear shocks yesterday, then e-mailed Bilstein about the front shocks. I received a reply from Bilstein this morning: "once they are released they will be in our catalog. Looks like sometime in June or July". Please keep us posted! My impression of the rear shocks is the same as it has been for me before, seems like the rear is less "bouncy" after hitting a bump, and feels a little softer where it counts.

Crazy question...has anyone else considered changing the rear window to solid glass? I have the thought in my head because 1) It seems inevitable that it WILL leak and I don't want the dealership's hands on my headliner, spoiler, trim, etc. and 2) I never wanted the option but convenience group II had other stuff I wanted.