YES in a 2001. Autoride was rear load leveling with air shocks in the 1500 Suburban. ALL 2500 Suburbans with the 8.1L engine got magnetic ride control still branded as Autoride. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I have the magnetic ride control on my 01 Suburban. It rode great for the first 125k miles until the shocks started leaking. Replacement shocks were $250 EACH, and they weren't coil overs, just plain shocks. This truck has leaf springs in the back and torsion bars in the front. After much research I decided to bypass the Autoride system. Essentially the system uses a ride height sensor at each corner and the Ride Control Computer combines input from steering angle, speed, and other sensors to vary the current to the shocks, which in turn varies the fluid viscosity and therefore the stiffness of the shock. If you unplug the shock, you will get a "Service Ride Control" error that won't go away. From what I have read there is no way to pull the fuse or otherwise disable the ride control computer. The fix I found was this eBay Resistor Kit. Basically. you connect a resistor to the wires that connected to the shock absorber, tricking the computer into thinking that the shock is still connected so it won't set an error code. With the resistors in place, select the shocks of your choice. I installed these in 2013 and have not had any messages or error codes since. I will say the ride is a lot firmer with the shocks I selected, the Autoride was nice since it would soften the ride on smooth roads. But I saved at least $1000, and that makes me smile when I hit a bump If you;re going to do this, I would get 2 kits and do both front and rear, then get 4 matching shocks.
Not sure why link didnt post, www.classictube.com Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
You can get complete pre bent replacement fuel and brake like sets from Classic Tube . Either stainless or reg steel, comete wuth fancy factory connectors. I replaced all my fuel and brake lines with stainless a few years back, wasnt hard to do. If you use copper alloy be sure it is DOT approved for brake lines. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk Sorry not sure why link didnt post, it is www.classictube.com Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Mc Fly, glad you got it fixed! I had 2 of the ride height sensors fail over the years and both times the dealer was able to quickly pinpoint the problem with a tech 2 scanner. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
I have always felt Monroes are too soft, so yes, if you are gonna drop that kind of coin, I would get the Delcos. I have to say I have been happy with the KYBs with AutoRide bypassed, although the ride is a little rougher when empty or not towing.
Autoride shocks were OEM orange. Different system on the 2500s, autoride provides Real Time Damping (RTD) not auto leveling like the 1500s. Autoride has a separate computer, if any problem is detected the DIC message says "service ride control". You do need a Tech 2 scanner since autoride is GM proprietary and not OBDII. I replaced my RTD shocks at 125k miles with KYB. Other good choice is Bilstein, Monroes are too soft for a HD truck. I bought a resistor kit on flea bay where you install a resistor in place of each shock so the system thinks shocks are connected enabling you to avoid any DIC message. Completely removing autoride requires reflashing the BCM to remove the Z55 RPO code so the BCM stops looking for the autoride computer. Yours may have had that done if you are getting no message. I am not sure you can even still buy Delco autoride shocks, the Monroes 40035/40036 are still available on Amazon. Ps no need to fool with either ball joints or torsion bars to change shocks. Also forgot to mention I have the factory service guide, I can look up the test procedure if you like
FYI, pay attention to the FUEL lines too. I replaced all my brake and fuel lines with stainless sets from Classic Tube about 2 years ago, fortunately before I had a blowout.
Burbman replied to randallcook's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDHad a similar problem on my 01 Suburban, the gauge would go flat to empty and the low fuel message would come on. Would happen intermittently and the gauge would come back on after a minute/day/week, was no rhyme or reason to it. Turned out to be the read sending unit. From what I have read, the truck has two tanks, each tank has it's own fuel pump and sending unit. The front pump runs full time to feed the engine, the rear pump gets turned on/off by the PCM under certain conditions, which I have not been able to find out what they are. The PCM drives the gauge cluster, and it essentially takes the readings from both tanks and uses some kind of formula to determine what level to show on the gauge. My back sending unit was intermittent, and when the PCM couldn't get a reading on the back unit it would flatline the gauge at empty. Surprised that you didn't have new fuel pumps put in when you had new sending units installed. That's a big labor bill to drop both tanks, and anything over 100K on the factory pumps is borrowed time. They also advise changing the wiring connectors when you change the pump, you may just have a loose or corroded connector(s). Unfortunately you need to drop the fuel tanks to get to the connectors.... I also changed my brake and fuel lines to stainless as part of that project, but the gauge works fine now.
2001 K2500 Suburban with 8.1L and dual fuel tanks. I need to remove the fuel lines and there is a retainer that secures the fuel, return and evap lines in a clip that is mounted to one of the bell housing studs at the top of the top of the transmission. I can barely see the bolt let alone get a wrench on it, how is it accessed? Also fuel lines seem trapped by the torsion bar, does the crossmember need to come out?
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