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Any decent scan tool will have cruise condition inhibit parameters displayed either in ECM or BCM data. This can help you isolate why its not working.

Your refrigerant is low. Your symptoms all highlight this. Whether you have an actual leak or have just lost the original charge over the years (about .2-.3 oz per year decay is a thing) remains to be seen. You can connect a gauge set to verify, but you'll really need to evacuate, recharge and monitor for a leak.

Lol, now I know this is a bot. Go away.

Ain't nobody got time for that. The code numbers are sufficient. Google, service info, Chiltons, will all easily elaborate on the definitions. Anyone thats been working on cars for a hot minute will know these very common, as well as global OBD standard, codes with not much else given. You have a wiring issue, as P0449 is a circuit fault. Focus on finding that, and the other two DTCs which are rationality based, will likely be resolved too.

Definitely worth flipping through the manual just for those oddball scenarios, even if you think you know your car inside and out.

they look to have significantly different tubes, so crawling under the truck and looking should tell you which you need.

Don’t be fooled. Boost Auto sells a lot of Made in China parts. They just toss their name on it to make people think it’s all Made in the USA

Run Valvoline R&P 5w30 and change at shorter intervals 3500-4000

Overpriced trash.

Overpriced trash.

I’m working on a 2007.5 Silverado and the dealer said I needed the canister vent solenoid/service kit. they couldn’t tell me which one I needed as there were two styles. Not willing to help as I told them I’d have to do the repairs myself due to cost of labor and parts. VIN#3GCEC13J47G518531 this is the photos they were showing me. I don’t know which kit I need. They didn’t share the part numbers as I feel they were upset that I didn’t want to pay almost $1,000 for repairing it.

So you fixed it?

Glad I found this post before posting a question. My ‘09 has been throwing those codes and P0442. I replaced the gas cap as it was trashed to begin with and the purge solenoid valve under the hood but still get the code every now and then. Dealership said I need to replace the vent lines as the previous owner use cheap fuel line that feels more like a balloon. They also said the charcoal canister and the “canister vent solenoid/service kit” so it relocates the filter up by the top of the transmission. Vent solenoid is cracked as the previous owner just let it hang loose. Too lazy to put it back on its bracket. If I put it on there the hose kinks and I thinks causes a whistle when I fill up. Only issue is the parts guys can’t tell me which one I need as it shows two styles. One has a jointed section. Which should I use? Thanks. I apologize for hijacking the thread

UPDATE 3: Supposedly you need any cluster OTHER THAN a WT model cluster to have full steering wheel functionality. Went back to the part truck and removed the all terrain cluster, trim, and snipped as many wiring harnesses as possible to pull out the factory terminal leads if needed that poor donor truck… As of right now I’m relying on Darth_Vader’s thread and YouTube videos. will update.

Was commenting on the engine labs article on lifter failure.

The “engine hours” display is there because the truck detects the key presence as you were thinking. My first step would be to call a dealer service person and ask if this a known issue and how they deal with it. If you don’t get meaningful advice there, i would try a couple of DIY things before bringing it in for troubleshooting/repair. It sounds like a mechanical key detection switch is stuck, but I have not actually seen what the internals look like. Maybe spray some Caig Deoxit (electrical contact cleaner) in the key hole and work the key in and out in case it’s an electrical contact cleanliness issue. If that doesn’t work, next apply whatever lubricant GM recommends and work the key in and out a few times. Good luck with it.

Carbon on valves would be the least of my worries on a light duty, 1500-series pickup with 357k provided the engine still ran halfway decently. Everything else is likely toast, on its way out, or has already been mauled to death by cheap mechanics and backyard fixes. Those kinds of trucks nickel and dime a guy to death. I wouldn't think having the top end cleaned once or twice would be a big deal on a 5.3 but maybe it is?

I wonder how much carbon is on all those high mileage valves?

When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles. My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going. It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's. Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first. 357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007

I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well. However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets

2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird. I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.

Based on what I can tell, yes. As for updating it, its a mixed bag. Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities. They do more good than harm though overall. Here's what the most current one does and a V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up V167 Most Notable Improvements: Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use. V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app. SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.

Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer. The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight. Most noticeable at slow speeds. Any insight is appreciated.

We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person.

We had a pretty big cars and coffee in Indy this past weekend. Pretty much anything and everything was there.