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It was time to trade in my 2019 HC and updated to a 23 Denali reserve.

So here’s my new to me 2023 Sierra SLT in the works right now getting fixed (frame swapped basically everything swapped ) but it’s a clean title only has 2063 mile on it, gotta 7” fts lift already on the donor frame ready to go!!! Will swap the lift later so if can fit my 38s on it still have my 2014 Silverado debating on selling it right now. This was just purchased from the auction so it will be ready to roll here in a few months or so. With the Denali frontend not SLT frontend

2024 2500 LTZ with L5P, Z71, fifth wheel mojo Built March 13, "in transit" since at least ~late May (when I put a deposit on it), actually moving ~mid July, drove it home today.

I think your truck looks bada** as is. I would not bother with fender flares. I really like my Duratracs.

Can't wait to see this one Frankie.

GM Authority posted this story back on July 10th: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/07/2024-chevy-silverado-turbomax-engine-gets-longer-warranty/#:~:text=Intended to display GM's confidence,to five years%2F100%2C000 miles.

This is the sellers picture.

I agree, i know its in programming, and think they OVER programmed it, and it is definitely SOOOO DANGEROUS! I hope a GM guy can see this issue, because the dealer has no clue, and shrugs their shoulders at it.

I've been trying to figure this out too. I was really hopeful after 4k miles it would let it be free, but from what you're saying that is not the case. I almost got into an accident yesterday because I was expecting the truck to move faster than it did, I ended up flooring it and the acceleration response didn't change, then over 15 mph whatever torque management is on the truck let everything go and I spun the tires. Now I know you have to drive it like a semi from a stop. My guess is they programmed torque management to save the transmission. They just over did it.

I should be picking up a 2013 Sierra SLT with an L9H this afternoon.

Thank you for sharing your opinion

That looks very good at night. It's not overpowering, either.

I run mobil1

Your truck looks good. Fender flairs aren’t needed unless your tires are slinging gravel or mud on to the side of your truck. They don’t add much if just for looks imo.

I’m always an advocate of, at a minimum, following the break in advice in an owners manual. That said, if your trailer only weighs 2500 lbs and has a frontal area less than the truck, I would not be worried about either of those recommendations if you for some reason can’t follow them. Just take it easy while accelerating and while pulling your boat out of the water at the boat ramp. The engine oil recommendation is to ensure you have clean oil and get rid of break in particulates before you run at high cylinder pressures. You probably would be just fine not changing it but I’d do it if I could. My oil was changed at 300 miles due to my discovery of a dented filter. My truck at 10k does not appear to use oil between oil changes (less than a pint in 4k). Did that early oil change help make it be one of the engines that doesn’t use two quarts between changes? Maybe. I suspect it had more to do with my receiving the truck with 2 miles on it (no test drives by others) and my being easy on it for the first 1000 miles. The recommendation about initial towing weight and easy accelerations is primarily to avoid damage to the ring and pinion gear teeth in the differential and avoid excessive differential oil temperature. At 500 miles the gear contact areas are still forming and the contact areas are small. Trying to transmit too much power through those small contact areas can cause oil film breakdown and damage to the teeth, and it generates a lot of heat which also can deteriorate the oil and cause oil film breakdown. Ideally you don’t want to tow a heavy trailer before the ring and pinion gears have developed mature contact areas. 2500 lbs is not going to be a problem, though, after 500 miles of initial break in. There are guys who will say “I bought my new truck, drove it home, hooked up my 15k 5er and floored it up and down the Ike for the next 6 months, and my diff didn’t explode. What are you, a wimp?” But if you want a nice quiet rear axle at 150k miles, try to follow the break in advice.

If there is any doubt about the condition of an O ring replace it; they are cheap and it's good insurance. Take the old O ring to NAPA (NAPA because they have them, other more "retail" auto parts stores don't keep an assortment of O rings and can't match a part, they GOT TO have a part number) and have them match it up. if the O ring comes in a box, fold the box up and keep it with the papers for your truck, that way you'll have the P/N on hand.

Dash Sub Front door Rear door