Leaderboard

Atleast we don't live in Australia or New Zealand and a few other places. They have regular unleaded fuel prices topping $8-9 a gallon in US dollars and Diesel prices into the $11-13 a gallon range.

Fuel retailers are going to need to up their card payment pre-auth limits again and put a sign on the pump: Insert card, mortgage application, or kidney.

Sounds like he is set . Nice install . Im thinking of putting Ipad over My screen , can't get rid of the Blue-ray Player as my Daughter watches them in the truck . I have the Bose System , But I am debating on adding some Subs under the back seat to have an old school deeper bass for sound . probably some JL Audio subs or some Solo Barics ..

Hey Everyone, I'm posting this in this forum because it is specific to T1 trucks but the same principle can be applied to other years. First of all I do consider myself an audiophile. Not so much in vehicle systems but I don't want to add up how much time and money I have spent over the last 30 or so years searching for the perfect, limitless, balanced sound in my home systems. If you would like to know what I run at home you can PM me. Now on to the point. I had some free GM accessory money to use up so I decided to give the Kicker sub upgrade a try. It sounded "ok" and did make quite a bit of bass. I would seem to get it dialed in for one type of music and then it would sound muddy and bloated on a different type. It was also very heavy in the upper mid bass. In case anyone was wondering what the DIP switches do for SURE on the Kicker amp here you go. (I measured them) Switch 1,2 and 3 are gain. There are 4 settings from all 3 down to all 3 up. Switch 4 is the remote turn on selection. Switch 5 turns the crossover on or off. Switch 6 adjusts the slope of the crossover from 24db (on) to 12db (off). I firmly believe that the way Kicker ships these is the proper setting for our trucks. (1,4,5 and 6 up and 2 and 3 down) One thing that really bothered me about the install of the Kicker sub is that they are pulling their input signal from the right front speaker only. Does the Bose system have a high pass roll off programmed into that channel? What about music that has bass dedicated to the left channel only? What happens when you start to overdrive that channel in the Bose amp? Say what you will about Bose but one thing they do well is "tuning" a system in a vehicle so that it sounds good at all volume levels to the majority of people. Read that sentence again. This is all done with a LOT of eq, monitoring the amp channels for compression and clipping and attenuating certain frequency ranges at higher volume levels. The result is a system that plays loud and sounds "decent" for the majority of consumers while staying within the budget given to them by the auto manufacturer. Enough rambling. After a bunch of digging I found the wires that run to the factory Bose sub. I tapped these for the input to the Kicker amp. To my ears it sounds 100 times better. Much more balanced at all volume levels and with all types of music. It is cleaner and hits harder with less overhang. It also plays bass from both channels now. I really have to recommend this to anyone that has the Kicker sub upgrade. Hit me up if you have questions. -Eli

Any off the shelf oil would be fine, especially if you are not planning on keeping it. But one thing to look into is keeping the inside clean. Valvoline made Restore & Protect because even with 5k oil changes the inside still carbons up, especially the rings using most off shelf oils. Now using a higher quality oil like AMSOIL would prevent that. Most look at UOA's but now there is a different view to oils, which keeps the inside clean and rings free? To me the extra cost is worth it.

Yes I have the full Stock center console , & I already have Video unlock , Had it done By White when I bought My truck in 2018 . My Daughter just loves picking out & bringing her DVD's & loading them in herself & I hate to take that away from her . Not sure the 10 JL TW1 would give me the Low deep bass I want . Was thinking of going with 2 JL 10TW3-D4 under the back seat ( Have them in My convertible & am satisfied ) or Kicker Shallows . Still up in the air though . wish I could fit a W7

It makes zero sense. The BP in town is always the cheapest gas or I could say they are last station to move on price. They are independently owned and run as a BP station. Their spread on fuel is different from everyone else too. If 87 octane is $3.30 the 93 octane is roughly $4.30. But if you go literally across the street to Holiday, it's a different price for their 91 or 92 octane. Then the Amoco Fuel station is $4.10 for 93 octane, and is has been 80 cents higher than 87 octane the last few times I've gone there. And lastly we have Kwik Trip, the 87 octane tends the match the other stations but then the 91 octane fuel is always $1.20 more per gallon than 87 octane. But then some stations offer a 92 octane that is less because it's E10. And every single fuel station gets the same fuel from the same refinery that is 45-50 miles southeast in Rosemount, MN. It's the same stupid fuel, same Top Tier BS fuel that every single station says they run but the spread in fuel can be so different. And don't get me started on the fact that all of those fuel stations like Holiday, BP, Speedway, Kwik Trip etc etc will run different fuel prices just based on the city you live in. I'm in the north metro where fuel in cheaper but I'm further away from the source compared to the South Metro cities that are currently 30 cents higher in fuel costs. These huge companies own all of these stations but never charge the same amount for the fuel they are selling. I drive all over the place for work and have people tell me they will drive 3-4 miles into the city next door to them to save 30 cents a gallon because the Holiday stations owned by the same company don't charge the same amount for the same fuel. I recall that a news station did a story on it one time a while ago, before this price jump even happened and they couldn't even tell us why these companies do it.

The red lights are the Memphis 600.1 sub amp. The green kicker amp is a 800.8 marine 8 channel. This truck is a LT so no bose. I used the kicker keyloc to come from the head unit. I put that in the dash where the cd player was. We deleted the CD player because he is going to go the ipad route and push the factory radio back in the dash. The harness was a pac harness then ran 9 wire from amp back to head unit and tied into the door speakers. Isolated dash tweeters and the tweeters in the front of the center console sub box on their own channels the highs are all kicker ks series. 2.75 inch in the dash a set of 3.5's and a set of 6.5's in the center console. Front doors are 6x9's the rear doors are 6.5's. And a 12" Memphis sub running 2ohm

Somehow still at $3.30 a gallon in town, other places are 20-30 cents higher. Diesel back to around $4.89-4.99 everywhere but Flying J/Loves trucks stops that way over $5.00 a gallon. Premium ranges a lot, anywhere from $4.10-4.70 a gallon.

Look again. Its there. Gray sticker on the face of the door jamb between the two doors. Has the VIN, curb weight, payload, conventional tow rating, 5th wheel tow rating, GVWR and GCWR. Here is an example from a different truck of that label:

This isn't my k2 but I did it. I did a full stereo install on my coworkers silverado and the denali cluster.

Well, that truck is ancient history. After the endless list of problems and the utter frustration the A-hole engineering caused me over the 16 painful years & 134k miles, I couldn't take it anymore and finally dumped it 3 years ago. I bought this instead. Best thing I ever did for my mental health ... AND my wallet! https://postimg.cc/mzKr55sY https://postimg.cc/tnPgQNRH https://postimg.cc/jD9d51W5

Normalize your results. Divide PPM by K miles. Iron for example is 36 ppm / 7.5K miles = 4.8 ppm/K miles Not shabby for a Ecotec3 platform where 7 ppm/K is the universal average. Be happy, don't worry. BTW good choice IMO anyway. Try the 0W40 AZF

Hey boss, just wanted you know I recently did this with my 2024 w/t 1500. If you use a 1” shackle in the rear with trail boss struts up front, it sits level. I’ll send comparison photos. Also keep in mind, I went from 255/70R17 tires to a new set of wheels and 275/70R18’s to match the ZR2. the factory ranchos are super spongy and a lot like the shocks that came on the Silverados that didn’t have special packages. I had a set that wore out completely at 25,000 miles. Skip the ranchos and get the Bilsteins. You’ll save money and get a better, longer lasting product. the 2” lift also comes with CV axles. YOU DO NOT NEED THESE if and ONLY IF you are just going with the 2” lift. If you go any higher in the front, you need the CV’s AND upgraded upper control arms. PLEASE keep in mind, I swapped the grille, added the side step bars, rear fender liners, removed the air deflector on the bottom of the front bumper, and downgraded license plates to avoid paying the government more money than they absolutely have to have…..but I promise it’s the same truck. There is more than a year’s difference between these two photos.

All looks fantastic on paper, as they usually do! If they offered that engine to the aftermarket alongside the new truck, that would be fantastic, too. The bigger question is, can GM build this thing and make it RELIABLE? Based on their past 19 model year track record, I have serious doubts. Side note - I have a '93 Ram W250 with a Cummins that has a 1,600+ mile range. The stock 30 gallon tank, plus I've got a small toolbox that is mostly fuel - 91 gallons to be exact. 1,600 is as far as I dare go. Theoretically I should be able to go 1,900 before it stops running.

If GM thinks I’ll buy a new truck from them after the mess of garbage they’ve been putting out, they are nuts.

I’ve mentioned several times over the years how Amsoil hydraulic oil has save my company thousands over the years. And how in the 80s through the early 2000s we went extended up to 25K miles with their oil. Extending hours in our ROW equipment. Did oil analysis and became a dealer. Other oils eventually caught up or at least got close. I don’t drive as much retired and don’t go extended. And I drive in town more vs highway. With the changes internally with most engines extending oil drains is not advisable for most people. I’m convinced 5K oil changes should be the maximum. I don’t use one brand anymore. Honda oil, Valvoline, GM, Mobile one and Amsoil. Who’s the best? I don’t know. If I did my own changes I would use Amsoil. All my daily drivers are plus 150K and use no oil. I know Grumpy test all the time with real world results. Can’t go wrong there. That’s my 2 cents.

Let me try to clear some things up here because I can see some confusion. I'm not the God of anything, but I do know my stuff when it comes to towing. First let's start with payload and tongue weight. As we know payload is amazingly high on our 2500's especially the gassers that are lighter than the diesels. So let's say the 2500 gassers have an average payload of 3500lbs, of which most do. Now that includes everything added to the truck, people, cargo, you name it, everything is added into that payload number. Tongue weight is also included if you have a hitch pulled Travel trailer. For example, we have a Grand Design Imagine 2800BH. We filled it with all of our stuff, including the fridge, I filled the fresh water tank too (55Gallons) because it is forward of the axles then took it to the CAT scales and weighed that beast. The results were I had 7k on the axles and 1k on the tongue. Believe it or not my rear helper springs were not even contacting the base pack of springs. Not bad at all when you have 3500lbs to play with. Now, let's talk about 5th wheel and pin weight. 10% of the overall weight of what you are towing is the golden rule. So if your giant ass camper weighs 16k, you are looking at 1600lbs of pin weight that is over the rear axles. Totally different weight placement when compared to a hitch travel trailer. Now that 1600lbs reduces your payload by.....1600lbs. But you still have basically 1900lbs of payload left to play with. So let's talk about the other basic rule of towing. Stay within 75% of max capabilities for safety reasons. So your 1900lbs, for safety reasons becomes 1425. Not bad at all, actually quite impressive. You can add air bags, timberens, whatever, just remember those items do not increase your overall payload number. Payload is payload, it's a hard number. Those items might level out your truck and make it ride better, but they never increase your payload. I really hope this helps others and makes a lot of sense. Safety is #1. The rest is enjoy the ride because these HD trucks are friggen amazing!!! One other thing I forgot to add is that I no longer use sway bars for our travel trailer. To me they are useless and serve little purpose. Pump your E rated tires up to 75psi, and hopefully your campers have e-rated tires as well. Pump them up to 75psi too. Not a problem at all towing. Sway is minimum and I love not using them. They really are a pain in the ass. The 1500 guys have to use them, us HD guys.....throw them away....they are useless. Just my personal opinion all after towing our camper thousands of miles. Be well and if you have any questions, I might be able to help.

Prices sure have went up since your Purchase . Just checked & now listed at $476.18 on there website