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Driving habits definitely affect oil consumption. Grumpy knows. Towing with light trucks, heavy trucks, when you're running full boost more often or spinning gas engines at their peak torque for prolonged periods, they consume more oil. Period. Y'all flat-landers need to come out here in the Mountain West and tow for a while.

Yes Grumpy! I have said forever how oil changes are the lifeblood of an engine. Back in the 70's when I raced quarter mile on the weekends with a daily driver small block Chevy I always changed the oil before and after racing. Never had engine problems.

Paid $1.999 today for E85 up here. Premium still wild at $5.699. They can keep it for that price.

True, bought my first car in 1979 68 buick lasabre, burnt 1 qt every 100 miles. That motor was tired. Didnt matter how I drove it. Ive owned so many cars/trucks through the years and never had an oil burner since that old buick. Some people have to be right at all costs. I prefer clarity.

Are you naturally contrary? Or is it something else? Yea, having over 1000ft lbs of TQ is probably not much fun. And most vehicles claiming to be performance car are probably quicker than 5.5 to 60. I must be extremely lucky to manage to go almost 60 years of driving with only two oil users. Because I sure drive them like I stole them. But enough for now. I feel like I’m talking to a last born who’s trying to keep up with the older brother.

Not asking your worthless opinions here move on

Try to keep up. Oil consumption is affected by driving habits. That's generally true. I'm not sure anyone has said that is the cause of your L8T's oil consumption, but as a general rule, the harder you work an engine, the more engine it's likely to consume. A quart every 3k does seem like a lot, but, by GM's documentation it's somewhere within their self-determined limits of consumption. The limits are set mostly so they don't have to do anything about it except for extreme cases. If GM won't help you and you're uncomfortable with your L8T consuming a quart every 3k, get rid of the truck? Seems like the only option you have left?

Because it has never used much oil, I haven’t monitored it closely enough to know for sure. However, the measured drop on my latest longer interval after our road trip of 4500 miles (nearly 0.6 quarts) was roughly proportional to the drop in previous 3750 miles intervals (a little less than 0.5 quarts), which would imply the drop is steady.

https://www.tsbsearch.com/GMC/01-06-01-011I Also GM TSB #03-06-01-023 Someone needs to call GM Engineering and tell them ALL what idiots they are.

Chuck I'm not going to bang on you. I quoted you to highlight the issue of the impact off driving habits on the system under discussion. (Riddler) Efficient combustion produces what? CO2 and.......WATER. A little over a gallon per gallon of fuel burned. Humidity is a fractional of a fractional. Most of that water exits the exhaust pipe but a percentage of it leaks past the rings. (Leak down test). That tells you that ring seal has a great deal to do with how much water enters the crankcase. Once there, then what? If the oil is hot enough long enough it exits the crankcase via the breather (PCV System) and is reintroduced into the intake change where is exits the exhaust with a smaller percentage leaking back past the rings. What is left over is held in solution in the PPM range and eliminated on the next oil change. ( over about 1,000 ppm it becomes free water, see below). IF the oil never reaches temperature (short hopping, cold weather)) it collects and combines with other combustion products to produce acids. Those acids react with other combustion byproducts to make SLUDGE. Unreacted FUEL products NOT water will form VARNISH on cool down. How you drive MATTERS a great deal. Environment matters. It's PHYSICS, not on opinion. This yuk builds over time to foul the oil returns in the oil control ring land or sticking the ring; flooding that ring rendering it ineffective. If the motor didn't use oil for a prolonged period of time (20K) then the rings SEATED and then fouled or stuck OR that crap crapped up the PCV which made the oil worse and the rings stuck or fouled. That crap over repeated heat cycles carbonizes into a coke like substance that is very hard to remove without mechanical intervention; or was until the release of Valvoline Restore and Protect which breaks down that crap and allows it to be filtered out freeing both the ring in the groove and the oil returns in the land. Rings don't unseat, the bores wear out or the rings foul. Had the oil been changed often enough those reactions would have been rendered NULL. Had the oil been more polar those solids produced by those reactions would have stayed in suspension and never precipitated to begin with assuming you didn't try to run it to extinction. Even a sponge has a finite capacity. Polar oils are just larger sponges with the ability to hold varnish at bay and sludge either in solution or suspension to removed at the next oil change. At risk of repeating myself for the umpteenth time....use better oil, change it frequently and treat the machine in a manor meant to give it an chance of success. ( @diyer2) Older motor designs that used thicker high tension rings resisted this mess with more radial force AND larger oil return capacity. Those motors also used MORE FUEL and generated MORE WATER by more than double. New motors are not all junk. They are NOT stupid proof. Neither were older motors. They were just operated by people that knew the difference between a sparkplug and a fireplug and didn't have access to the internet and it's AI garbage.

I don’t doubt their experience as such. I never treated my equipment as delicate flowers. They all were used as tools. They had to perform. They were also entertainment. We sometimes would race on pipeline roads. My dad too. You don’t have to do much to them now days. They haul ass. I still haven’t experienced an oil user. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. If it did we would do a tear down to find out why. Well our shop guys would. It’s been awhile for me.

Yes well either way do what feels right I suppose. Thats what I am doing.

Well, if the can catches any vapor at all, that it turns into liquid, it should amount to a lesser buildup on the valves. Or so I would think. I just don't know to what extent it might amount to. I installed a catch can on my 2018 Fat Boy, and I did have to empty it from time to time. That small amount would have been sent straight into the throttle body, so I know it was doing at least some good. I would think the same would apply here. Some of us like to hedge our bets. Especially given that we don't get to write our "investment" off like some companies do.

Man if I get 200k out of this motor, i cant ask for anything more!

I’ve never experienced that phenomenon. I’ve put super chargers on several GM engines the added pressure didn’t make them use oil. Most of my trucks (all brands) were tuned. Raising the max RPMs and shift points. No oil usage. I would change gears for more cruising RPMs. I beat them hard. They idled all day so my crew guys could cool off. No oil usage. My company paid for my trucks and gas. One of the perks of a family business. I worked hard I earned it. As I always say I can only give my and company’s experience. By the way it wasn’t just me. It was many.

Yes I was speaking more tongue and cheek. Only time and miles will tell if the catch can works. I have 31k miles. I figure it is worth the money spent if it slows the carbon process. If not well I can forward my knowledge on to others.

You have been weighed, measured and found wanting. According to GM it is normal. So you disagree with your brand, finally got to the place of sanity. You have serious insecurity issues. .probably stems from neglect from childhood, or improper weening from the milk teat. Always one JA on every forum.

Well, I'm on a forum entirely dedicated to GM trucks Am I in the right place? No, your oil consumption isn't normal. Yes, all engines consume oil - it's a question of how much. Do you have any other questions we can help you with?

Facts > feelings. Can't explain that to guys who eat crayons in their Fords.

Cant fix stupid

ENOUGH!!!! The rules say no politics

Hey bud you sont have any say what options I have. Cant fix stupid.

This proves you know nothing. We’re not talking about semi's. I’ve driven them too. Draglines, earthmovers, bulldozers there’s very little I’ve haven’t operated, hauled or worked on. 24klbs is heavy hauling with 3/4-1 ton trucks. And yes through the mountains. I’m not a paper tiger, Ive walked the walk.

Update on 3500 HD ordered on 1/20/2026. Finally hitting production line week of June 1st "subject to change". Seems like the big issue was getting allocation for Double Cab. Maybe I will take delivery before July. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Eating cheeseburgers idling a truck isn't exactly creating the cylinder pressures or temperatures that cause oil consumption. 24k, wow, were you pulling your purse?

I put 1 million miles towing 24klbs combination. Changing trucks every 100K miles turning them into crew trucks on pipelines. Where they idle all day. That continues today. No oil usage. Maybe it’s the Amsoil. Maybe if you come to paradise I’ll show you our fleet. It would blow your mind.

You want me to take you and your mental breakdown above seriously and that's just not going to happen. You're free to identify as a victim and whine about how the left hurt you, tell someone who cares.

Raven (2024 Mitsubishi Mirage G4) which I bought new I've now lived with for two winters and a summer and I've run UOA's on every oil change (3,750 mile OEM Severe Schedule) after initial break in. It now has 46K miles on it so quite a few data points all from the same Oil Analyzers (AMZOIL) Lab. Thank you Nick. So I'm telling you what I think. I'm telling you what the labs say. Weather matters and it matters a good deal. Labs tell me that even 3,750 miles is to long during the winter months and that during the summer the oil has a bit of life left in it on that schedule. It tells me running a grill block DOES impact oil life. The difference is about 35%. I listen to the physics and I adjust the OCI by season. So now someone needs to call the lab and tell them their idiots too.

3.54 Murphy Walmart Montgomery TX

I have lots of in field experience with all kinds of engines. Service trucks, regular field trucks and of course personal vehicles. Driving habits have little to do with oil consumption. I have a lead foot. Even retired I still have contact with the family business. The biggest extending event for your engine is oil changes. It’s just that simple.

On that topic of atmospheric conditions experienced by the engine during its operation, it would be interesting to see inside of a certain engine platform type to compare the death valley low humidity hot weather theme of the summer vs a hot but very humid climate such as along the gulf states during the summer. Granted the outcome would change drastically if they were run short intervals vs longer heat cycles that would heat up the oil to drive out the moisture that is present. Conversely very cold weather means not only the struggle to reach a proper oil temperature, that smaller town person that mostly never drives out of town doesn't allow the oil to reach a proper temp and does the typical to work, back home for lunch, back to work, then finally back home theme day after day. I can only imagine the wear and sludge build up in a "typical" maintenance schedule theme engine. Thee old cardboard over the grill or in front of the rad theme all winter was no doubt helping more then they realized to help the life of the engine and not just to build heat quicker for the cab heat and defrost.

Sounds to me like some piston rings might seat at different times depending on driving factors. If I get 200k out of mine I will be happy. Not excited about the oil consumption though. My ladt truck Ford got 217,000 miles with not one drop of oil consumption, at the time of trade in. Coyote 5.0

Ford does a similar thing. Replaced under factory warranty timeframe the new engine gets 12/12, when customer pay its 3 year/unlimited miles. If they warrantied everything for long periods of time, the costs would skyrocket to the consumers.

gm - genius. The warranty on the part is based solely on who pays for it - when it is the EXACT SAME part. Let's make the warranty experience as awful as possible for our customers, that will build brand loyalty! Shareholder value today, no customers tomorrow, bankrupt next week.

I have the same DLH faced thin light tension rings and GDI system in Pepper. She's got 193K on her and uses no oil. I treat it for what it is, not what I wish it was and we get along just fine. I don't short hop her. I use a polar oil and I change it. I use UOA's to spot issues with the fuel system. I practice what I preach. It's the advice we've been giving. Low tension rings are not a death sentence. They are a warning to treat it better than you had to in the past. You came with your hat in your hand looking for help. People are trying. Don't bite that hand.

I got my cameras to come on all the time... with turn signals. Sort of a result of the Diode Dynamics C1R that I am running in the hitch. It is plugged into the 7 pin system. The truck thinks I have a trailer connected. I am using this C1R since I am blocking my 3rd brake light with my rooftop tent. Here is a link: https://www.diodedynamics.com/hitchmount-led-pod-reverse-kit.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqOqHooGdMTtAsBhB2fa6UxZovj80P1trAmT1Ph9d4AwNLdR6hv

First I have never bandaided anything. I just don't get as technical but have had good results of longevity with no mechanical failures for years.

Well custom there are damn few perfect engines IMO. So whatever the can catches works for me.