Hey man, I see you mention that you use D2S Bulbs with this setup. Which D2S Bulbs are you using and with what connectors? I'm running D2H bulbs as most use with this retrofit because I was worried D2S Bulbs with connectors would not fit under the stock headlight caps.
Another happy Magpie Customer here, highly recommend, Customer service is awesome too. Got everything delivered Friday evening, installed Saturday morning (45 mins) and it works great. FYI for Carplay users there is no reason to do the cluster swap and programming anymore. With the "Hey Siri" shortcuts in the latest IOS all you have to do is turn Siri Shortcuts on in your phone settings and say "Hey Siri" while your driving and she talks through the radio. No need to press anything on the screen or steering wheel. Details: Truck is a Pre-August 2015 2500HD LTZ w/ I06 and HD Radio. Got the new Radio and I06 2.5 HMI, plugged right in, confirmed w/ Magpie I would still have HD Radio and I do. Tips, the USB swap was the hardest part (if you want to call it "hard") for me. I'm anal about not scuffing or marring any interior plastic. Mine was extremely tight. I tapped everything off with painters tape around it (as I did with the dash trim when removing it) and used two of the thinnest trim removal tools I had lifting on the back and left side at the same time, it finally popped out in two pieces. Didn't scuff or mar anything, and the new one fit tight as well with no movement. Having a quality set of trim removal tools is key for this install. Also it is a good time to change your cabin air filter while your swapping out the HMI since you have everything removed and its right there, mine was only two years old and needed replacing.
What’s the best way to get the USB outlet out of the inside the console (full console bucket seats). Can it be pulled straight out or does it need to be released from the back? Don’t want to break anything.
10-4. Unless you can find an old genuine toshiba bulb, don’t waste your $20. Today’s “HIR” bulbs are not made with the technology toshiba patented years ago then stopped making, they are just over driven bulbs. Both my philips “HIR” bulbs failed within the year, they don’t like high beam applications where they are turned on and off constantly on dark roads and the gain was nothing.
Did the gap open up at all compared to stock.? Hard to tell from the pics. Looks good. Also skip the HIR bulbs, I went down that road a few years ago until Diode Dynamics came out with the SL1, HIR bulbs were no better than stock, maybe just a tad, SL1’s were much brighter than both and properly focused.
Awesome. Take lots of pics, I want to see how far back the projector sits from the stock bezel compared to the stock projectors with his brackets. I still have plans to get some, still trying to figure out what to do with the gap. You can clearly see the stock gap in your pic which is small.
Awesome. Do you have any pics of just the brackets, can the brackets be purchased seperately if the 5.0's are already in hand? Would like to see some shots from the front to see that gap. Please post!
WIF harness fit perfect with factory connections: IMG_7810 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7809 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7838 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Now, reinstall your air intake and wiring harness to all the sensors. Prime the crap out of everything like normal and fire it up. Final pics of the install showing clearances. Disregard my pressure sensor in the bleed port on the filter head, I read lift pump pressure on my CTS2 at this location. IMG_7841 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7843 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7844 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7845 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7846 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr So far I would recommend this kit. I’ll do an update about a year from now when I change my fuel filter. Hopefully that filter change will be much easier than the ones previously. I’m not saying changing the filter in its stock location is hard, but it’s a PITA that’s unnecessary for being a general and very important maintenance item for what it is. Let me know any questions of comments!
I wanted to share something I hadn’t seen done using a kit I found online by coincidence back in the spring, relocating the stock fuel filter for easier access. A few things first: I’m in no way associated with this company, I bought the kit and found it to be a good one and would like to pass this on to other folks who may be interested, I only found limited information on the net out there now. Keeping the stock FF in place even when running a lift pump is important if you running the stock CP4.2 fuel pump. The stock filter is hard to beat, it’s one of the best on the market and adds another level of security against contamination, esp. WATER. We all know the stock location of the fuel filter is not the easiest to access, on the earlier trucks it could be accessed from the top with a little effort, but not on the LML’s. I have the Madjack access door installed on my fender liner, as I got tired of stripping out screws taking out the liner and had to buy new ones from the dealer. That works OK, but it’s still a pain and screwing with the o-ring isn’t easy from below when you can’t see it laying on top of the passenger side tire putting the new filter on. So, via a google search, I found a relocation kit from a company called Western Diesel located in Arizona. All that I could find on the net about it was a Youtube video (which is nicely done btw) showing the kit being installed on a LMM. I contacted Western Diesel via phone to discuss, and have had nothing but good conversations/and experience with them each time I spoke with them, even after I ran into a bump during the install. I bought the LML kit and they promptly shipped. The instructions were good, but watching the Youtube vid was definitely helpful. You will need to remove your air intake elbow prior to starting. I have an S&B intake, I just removed the elbows and left the box with filter, it was not in the way at all as seen in the photos. I also worked completely from the top, no need to open up the fender liner. Tools needed: 15mm socket with extension, 1/2” closed end wrench (non-ratcheting – stubby works best), 1/2” socket, needle nose pliers for removing hose clamps (the long ones with a 45* bend-these are a must!), gloves (you’re going to get fuel on you). Here is my install: Here’s the relocation bracket, a nice heavy piece: IMG_7784 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7786 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Here’s where it goes: IMG_7783 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Bracket Installed, pull it as far forward as you can get it and tighten: IMG_7788 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7787 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Next comes the fun part, the hardest part of the install (not really that hard), removing the filter from its stock location. Removing the air intake elbows and unplugging as many sensors to pull the wire harnesses out of the way will give you room to work. IMG_7812 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7813 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr With everything unplugged and out of the way you’ll be going after the two fuel hoses attached to the hard lines beside of the alternator. TIP, take a pic with your phone before you remove anything to remember which hose is which and also mark them, you don’t want the fuel to flow through the filter backwards. I took the below photo before I unplugged the harness in the way shown in the photo, once its unplugged, there is room to work. With the hose clamps removed using the long 45* bend long needle nose pliers I still had to cut them down the middle with a razor to get them off. I stuffed as many rags as I could under the hard lines and hose before pulling them off, this kept fuel from getting on everything. I folded the hoses still attached to the filer to pinch them off and put a zip-tie around them to keep fuel from spilling out when I was ready to pull the filter out from the top. This worked really well, I barely got fuel on anything except my hands. IMG_7815 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7819 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Next, it’s time to remove the filter and its head from the stock bracket. To do so, you must first unbolt the coolant line bracket that’s in the way: IMG_7817 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Next, the hardest part of the install, removing the two ½” bolts holding the filter head to its bracket. There is not much room to work and a socket nor ratcheting box end wrench will fit. I used a stubby ½” boxed end wrench to get bolts out, you will have to pull the coolant line towards you (towards the filter head) to get to them. Don’t worry, the line is connected to hose on both ends so it moves. Be sure to unplug the WIF sensor from its connector on the truck before you take the last bolt out. With both bolts removed I rocked the filter back towards the firewall (remember we have the lines pinched off and zip tied), pushed the hard coolant line towards the engine and pulled the filter attached to its head straight out the top. Re-bolt the coolant line back to the bracket it was previously bolted to. Filter with head removed: IMG_7832 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Next it’s time to install the new hoses. I flushed my new hoses out a few days before with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and them hit them with compressed air, hung them to dry and taped the ends to prevent any contamination. IMG_7807 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr I took this extra step on my own accord since the hoses are going to route behind the alternator to protect them. I already had this material on hand and have used it before in several types of applications, you can buy it online a few places, wear gloves if you mess with this stuff, the fiber glass in it is very fine and will stick in your hands for days (I know from past experiences): IMG_7804 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7805 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7806 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7808 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Connect the back hose first and route it behind the alternator like so, leave it full length, then do the same thing with the front one – MARK YOUR HOSES (I took this pic after I already plugged the wire harness back in, again with it unplugged there is more room to work than the pic indicates): IMG_7811 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7828 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7834 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7833 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr I then changed my fuel filter and removed the factory hoses still attached over an oil drain pan so I wouldn’t get fuel everywhere. With new filter installed and factory hoses removed, I attached the assembly to the new bracket pulling it as far forward as possible using the provided hardware and a ½” socket: IMG_7835 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7836 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr Mockup your hoses and cut the extra off, I cut mine a little long the first time on purpose to check the fit. After the hoses are connected I ran the new WIF harness beside the hoses and connected it back to its factory connector at the original location. I used heat resistance Zip ties to secure everything: IMG_7842 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7843 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr IMG_7839 by Brandon Needham, on Flickr
A different site has these up but without the GM Trucks watermark and the resolution is a whole lot better. Here's what I see based on those: -Chassis looks to be identical to the current lml. When you pull of pics of the lml trucks and compare what you can see under the trucks it looks exactly the same. There may be minor changes, but nothing major. -DEF tank is now tucked away somewhere (Finally) -Hood Scoop gone. As one previous poster noted, the hood scoop was getting to much negative flak. -Tow mirrors still have the split glass with LED reverse lights. Mounting has been revised. -Added LED lighting (obviously) -Cab is shared with the 2019 1500 (As with all Chevy HD trucks)
….does anyone know if the extended dust caps for the Silverado are still available? I see them for sale on Shapeways and messaged the seller but haven’t heard back in over a week. I completed a D2S 4.0 projector swap a few weeks ago and am currently running D2H bulbs so everything will fit under the stock caps (plenty of room with D2H bulbs) but would like to switch to OSRAM D2S bulbs which will require extended caps so everything will fit.
MTM makes just about all of the foam cannons that you see, everyone just likes to brand them as there own with their own stickers. MTM makes three versions, if you have an electric pressure washer the P/N you want is 14.0349. The orifice is smaller to perform better with the lower GPM and PSI of an electric pressure washer. If your paying more than $60 for one of these things your getting ripped off. http://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/MTM-Hydro-14.0349/p11216.html
5th Set now in hand. Same as above. Identical to photos above. Now accepting Paypal, buyer pays fees. $350+UPS shipping from 29492+Paypal Fees if Paypal is used. Will go on Ebay for $375 Monday if not sold here.
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