Ron.s

I bought BB EFI tune for my 2016 with 6.2 Engine. Very good results but sold my truck so selling my $599 cost for $250. Has ECU-TCU tune, additional vehicle tunes can be purchased for $225 from BB.

I’m running Mobile 1 0-20 synthetic and don’t ever use a quart between oil changes. I go 8-9000 miles usually.

I hate to disagree with the majority but keyless and console shifter for me on upper trims. Properly placed you can shift while resting your elbow. And I love the paddle shifters but not the after thought ones on my Denali that are hard to reach. A good keyless system really has no downside except for a slight “getting used to” by the owner. To each his own!

Thanks tbarn, an informed and helpful reply. When I got my paperwork and read the Service Writers notes it was nothing like what I reported.

OK, dealer visit 3/9/17 update. The dealer tech found "open in roof mounted hi frequency antenna" after "computer systems test". Ordered new antenna. While waxing my truck I noted water coming from under the roof seal. It fits tight but the flimsy top lets the metal flex with moderate pressure. The day after the visit my GPS started working again. I think I got the water out by pressing on the top until it quit weeping. I assume this was creating a short while wet. Funny-I threw this theory at the Service Writer but they ignored this and likely have ordered an unneeded part. I didn't contact them again because this will at least get them to look under the seal. I'll discuss this again when I go back next week for replacement. Now if they plan to remove the headliner I'll reconsider.....

Had to cancel appointment, maybe this week.

After about a year the GPS on my 2016 quit working. A few days before I was waxing the top and the metal is so thin that it flexed around the GPS antenna and water ran out from under seal. It hasn't leaked yet but I suppose that's next. Dealer visit next week.

I also had trouble since I had never done a tune before. The result was good but I found Black Bear slow to respond and the instructions too complicated. Emails were 2-3 days for response and it was over 3 weeks start to finish. That's partially because I sent a bad file and 2 different people sent overlapping email responses. Instructions are complicated because they try to cover all vehicles in one set of instructions. Looking back I think the instructions would work better if you used a laptop so the frequent sub menus can be opened as you tune. I printed them out but had so many sub menus attached that I made mistakes. Apparently I hit a busy time at BB. My suggestion is to use a laptop and take your time if you are a newbie! Great tune though.

I didn't say I had trouble stopping....I had trailer brakes and a controller. You must have read that into my comment about "slowing for traffic and trying to recover". Issue is-lose momentum and try to get back up to cruising speed. And I didn't mean to infer that everything else was rosy. There were three or four recalls and several issues that Toyota wouldn't fix. Terrible infotainment system and Nav not as good as GM by a bunch! Strange very hard downshift and clunk infrequently. Handling not as good as GM, etc. etc. Drivetrain reliability was OK and nothing broke while I owned it. I would say the same about my 14 & 16 GM trucks and frankly don't think Toyota is even close. But if a vibrator is your only criteria the Toyota may be the best truck. But then if you don't tow-buy a midsize and save some money. The Ridgeline might be worth a try. All of the trucks seem to have some issues, although GM may lead in %. But this is getting off topic. My 2016 had a suspension related vibration at high speed that GM/Dealer wouldn't fix. I was lucky and after trying rear spring clamps figured out that the issue was U bolt related. I spent $40 and fixed mine with 9/16" (larger diameter/more torque) replacement U bolts. This also got rid of some driveline slop and now the shocks work like they should.

I went from the Tundra to GM so I could write a book about Tundra issues but sorry to say I did not post on the Tundra Forum. For the most part my Tundra was reliable and resale wasn't bad. Handling and towing way below average and fuel economy towing is a joke. I towed a travel trailer to Alaska and back and had a miserable trip. Carried 12 gallons extra gas and had to use it more than once. The fuel mapping is way off because the truck wants to run high R's (no useable torque) and 6-8 mpg often the result. Even using the select shifting is was almost impossible to drive at peak torque of about 3600, don't hold me to that # it's been a few years might have been 3400. And hills or God forbid having to slow down for traffic and then...try to recover, forget it. When I returned I provided my dealer with a scathing critique and lots of detail including pictures. Toyota flew 2 guys in and spent 2 days with my truck only to report "working as designed". And the 16's are still basically the same setup. I had purchased a trailer with aluminum frame and weight of 4150 dry, never over 5500 during the trip. I also towed a snowmobile trailer that was about 4,000 and other trailers that were lighter. My quick summary conclusion is that Toyota still doesn't understand truck engines. Engine and transmission mapping are bad but the basic engine power band is more "carlike". Great drag racing but that's about it.

They torqued mine to 125# and I haven't checked them again.

My 2014 radio had weak FM reception but my 2016 is better than normal. Subjective assessment comparing it to other vehicles I have owned. I get a decent FM signal 120 miles away and don't lose the signal in areas where my 2014 went to static.

I don't know but here's the contact info: Boise Spring Works 800-585-5332 boisespringworks.com The bolts are 9/16" X 8 1/2" X 2 1/2". The price was $9.69 each. They wrote up the invoice 9/16" X 20" U bolts 2 1/2" and something I can't read, maybe 54. I assume that 20" is the total bolt length. If any confusion I'd be happy to drop back by, but tell them I had the red 2016 GMC on Friday about noon.

Yes, no vibes. Actually mine only vibrated on rough roads at 75-85. But I could fell it kind of "quiver" at lower speeds and Magneride shocks weren't working. The rougher the road the worse it got but no vibe on smoother roads. I call it suspension failure vibe vs rotational out of balance vibe.

This will probably be my last post here. Here's the end of my story. Dealer two couldn't get GM to do anything but gave me the name of a local shop that specializes in suspension and "lifts". (Boise Spring Works). They make their own U bolts, cold rolled. So quick trip to see what they thought and while talking to them they said that they didn't have access to stock for grade 8 bolts below 5/8" but that they torque their 9/16" grade 5 to 125#'s. Perfect!!! Thinking I would get hosed I told them to do mine, they had me back into the shop and went to work.. They removed the existing U bolts to find that the 9/16" would fit without any modifications. I also had them remove the spring clamps noted in a previous post. One guy built the U bolts while another removed the existing.15 minutes later they gave me a bill for less than $40. About like stopping for gas and far less $$ installed than I could buy anywhere. Not often that cost and service both exceed expectations in my world. So thinking I would go back to them next week for new shocks, I did some quick testing. My suspension works the way it should now. RR tracks and other bumps are so much smoother, best riding truck I have ever owned. And now my drivetrain has tightened up. I was getting some slop on and off the gas and that is almost completely gone. I assume the loose U bolts were allowing "axel roll". I'm so happy with my truck now that I ordered a tune from Black Bear. And for those guys switching to Ford..... The shop guys told me several stories about Ford aluminum panels tearing, bed damage on a couple with $3000 repair tab. You don't fix aluminum, just replace it. According to them, GM is bad but Fords are worse and very costly to repair. And they have been adding another leaf spring to some Fords because they built them too light. I always take these kind of discussions lightly but just sayin!!! Anyone that wants to try heavier U bolts-look for a local "spring works" business that specializes in lifts and builds springs and suspension parts for classic cars. Even if it cost triple it's worth it, IMO.

Interesting-you don't have spacers between the leaves in the center where the U bolts clamp? I wondered if they might be wearing/taking a set to let the U bolts get loose. If you have a constant vibration (not just on rough roads) then this is probably the wrong thread for you. GM has a TSB mentioned in the Vibration thread that directs the dealer to a series of procedures that include RFB tires, Picoscope, etc. Consider taking it to the dealer for help. First I would document the condition that the vibe is worst including speed, road conditions and make a short video if you have a smart phone. If you have something out of balance in the drive train it will be worse at certain speeds and usually go away at others. Steering wheel =front end, usually tire or wheel. Seats= rear end including drive train and tires. I would tape a flag (like a sprinkler locater) you can buy at Home Depot to the seat or steering wheel for your video. You can buy 10 of these for a couple of bucks in various colors. But trucks with a stiff frame like these will vibrate a water bottle and if it's not speed related then maybe compare yours to some others.

"Working as designed", ha ha! My 2014 did it from day one and In late 2013, I got a TSB from the dealer dated in 2010. They must update it frequently because on a later visit I got the same TSB but it was updated to 2014. Claim its gear lash and normal but it's amazing that something so toxic to customer relations isn't fixed after a year or two.

No clamps on my "16".

Update on U bolts. I can't find any U bolts smaller than 5/8" that are grade 5. There may be some but most 1/2" and 9/16" are grade 5. I don't think a 5/8" will work with our trucks without enlarging the hole in the lower bracket (maybe no big deal). The GM factory U bolts must be grade 8 based on the torque spec of 59# plus 130 degrees because max torque on a plated 1/2" U bolt is 52# grade 5 & 64# grade 8. Grade 5-9/16" is 75# and Grade 8-5/8" is 132#. There may be other torque specs that are different but this is at least a reference point. So any we have done over 64# are suspect and GM doesn't recommends replacing a U bolt once torqued. Here's a link to a 9/16" U bolt that has a max torque spec of 75#, grade 5: http://www.stengelbros.net/5U-238S-916-X-2-516-X-8-34S-20-Square-U-bolt-with-nuts-and-washers_p_14298.html This is what I'll likely try but first I'm going to visit another dealer to see what they have to say.

I agree, PSI increase didn't help mine, I always run 35 cold. For anyone looking for a deal on factory U bolts I found them at 32% discount. PN matches what dealer gave me for 2014-2016 LD's. Factory U bolts: BOLT - GM (11569811) List Price:$16.91 You Save: $5.44 (32% off) Sale Price: $11.47 http://www.gmpartsdirect.co/oe-gm/11569811 I'm going to remove one and see if I can find a non-OEM replacement-grade 8 in 5/8".

After some driving time I looked at my springs and noticed that the clamp on one spring has moved about 1/2". May need to add shims (like the factory ones) so that the clamp stays tight when the spring moves. I assume the shims were added to isolate sound waves to reduce road noise in the cabin. Has anyone bought a different U bolt to replace the factory ones? I'm thinking that a grade 8, 5/8" bolt would let us increase torque and maybe eliminate the need for clamps. Since not all vehicles have this issue it's possible that some were over torqued and the bolt had stretched vs my assumption that mine weren't torqued enough. Any thoughts?

Hope this will post as a pic. I don't use Photobucket much. To spread the pressure I think a thicker plate on top and on bottom is in order and I'll make it narrower so that I can get it a little closer to the axle. While removing my tire I found another example of GM torque gone wrong. On one wheel the lug nuts were pretty much the same torque but I didn't check exactly. On the other 2 were very loose, 2 in between and 2 so tight I had to use an extension on my flex handle to get them loose. My impact gun has never failed to remove any lug nuts when set on high but it wouldn't these two. Hope these weren't damaged because they were way over 140#'s. There was an earlier post about the way GM torques bolts but maybe not always, ha ha!!! Now that I look at this picture it doesn't seem like I got them any closer by reversing them but they show less.

Maybe the answer at last.... After a typical dealer visit I decided to try one last thing before replacing the Magneride shocks. First some history; I had the exact same truck in a 2014 that did not vibrate and had a good ride but didn't have Magneride shocks. My 2016 did not have a rotational out of balance vibration but one cause by the suspension and only when I hit rough sections of pavement such as frost heaves, asphalt seams and concrete roads that have a tendency to heave. So my vibration came and went and was more of a rolling quiver at low speeds and a full vibration at higher speeds. The entire truck shook. Intermittent and after a while I realized that it only happened on rough sections of road. First I tried the cheap Auto Zone spring clamps at various positions front and rear of the axle. This helped but still wasn't quite right. Settled on about 6" front of the axle as the best and no second set of clamps. Second I torqued the loose stock Ubolts to 70#'s and that helped a bunch but There was still a "quivering" feel at lower speeds when I hit a series of bumps and the shocks weren't working right. Also ride was worse so I removed the spring clamps. This was now the best it had been but still not quite right and got a little worse after a few weeks. Now the high speed vibration (75MPH-80MPH) was almost gone. Spring clamps had one thing that bothered me. They compressed the overload leaf and the other springs together. OK with some weight in the truck but not so good empty. So on to my Third attempt. I took the spring clamps and flipped them upside down so that I could get them tight against the other bracket for the factory Ubolts and put a clamp on either side of the axle. I torqued them to 25#'s and could see the cheap bracket bend. I also added a flat washer and better lock washers along with thread lock. I can now feel the shocks work and the ride is the best it's ever been, even better than my 14. I'll be test ing some more over the coming weeks and if it works will have narrower brackets made -both an upper and lower for each clamp. I will post a picture tonight, the doorbell just rang.

That was my plan but the dealer said it might show a warning light if I disconnect the Magneride shocks. I need check further but in my case I think my shocks are bad. According to the dealer they have no way to test them other than replace and they think mine is working as designed, ha ha.

What you say makes sense but then why are so many loose? The spec of 59# + 130 degrees. Would leave you around 70 and using the reverse torque method were 40 at most. My torque wrench may be off a little but not that much. And taking mine to 70 got rid of the vibration. I guess it's possible that there is som movement letting the parts take a set reducing the torque but that's too much dif.