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GRN69CHV

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Everything posted by GRN69CHV

  1. GRN69CHV
    Mine was consistently going non-functional. It either wouldn't connect to my IPhone or wouldn't have any sound. Had this issue with my '15 Silverado and the '12 Cadillac SRX that I had prior.
  2. GRN69CHV
    My '15 has 59,000 on it. Lifter failed at about 10,000 miles. Truck was leased for 39 months, lease is up in February. I'm debating on whether to buy it out or just turn it in and pay the penalties. Reliability is a concern. AFM was deactivated via reprogram at about 20,000 miles. Difference in running in AFM and without was about .75 mpg loss overall. Seemed the truck was rarely in V-4 mode for long anyway.
  3. GRN69CHV
    Put these on the 2500HD last week, only about 300 miles so far. Compared to the Bridgestone Duravis M700 that came on the truck OEM these are night and day. Duravis had 32500 miles on them, fronts were technically a little over 3/32" but had no siping left at all, center treads were solid rib treads. Rears had 5/32" left, about 2/32" of the block tread left. BS's overall appeared much narrower, and were very rough ride with terrible wet handling. AT/3's ride3 nice, are quiet, and so far were good in the 4" snowfall we just had, to the point where I just drove the truck in 4x2. AT/3's are much wider overall. I realize we went from a worn commercial grade LT tire to an all terrain LT tire, but still big difference. We'll see how they hold up.
  4. GRN69CHV
    Guess I should have opened the owners manual! You guys were talking engine hours and trans temps, didn't even know those settings were available. 2311 hours / 58,600 miles Approx 25 mph average. Kinda funny, cause my wife commutes 8 miles one way (teacher). Drives a Volvo XC60 with a 3.0 turbo'd straight 6, that I kid you not is fast. She putts along at the speed limit (roads she travels on are 45 mph max), factoring in lights, stop signs, etc, the car is averaging 19 mph. I really would've thought my average speed was a lot higher than 25 mph. Thanks for enlightening me.
  5. GRN69CHV
    Where's the hour meter? Mine's at 58600 miles
  6. GRN69CHV
    Whatever works for you. 35's, what load range? I know someone had a similar setup as you. Hauling a car trailer - rolled it. Truck, trailer and car on the trailer. That's why they make 2500HD and 3500's in single rear tire formats now. It's all not just in the springs, frames are much heavier and less prone to twist. Good luck.
  7. GRN69CHV
    Get rid of the 35's, drop it down 2" and put on a set of Load Range E tires in 32-33" height. Rear air bags and load leveler hitch. You'll be fine.
  8. GRN69CHV
    Here's mine with 275/65-18 with 1" front end lift. 285/65-18 is only 1/2" taller and 3/8" wider, so you are looking at 1/4" radius taller. All the 285/65's I found were LT, I wanted to stay with a P-Rated tire. Picture in my signature is side shot, couldn't find it on the computer, might have gotten deleted. This picture shows the air dam trimmed also.
  9. GRN69CHV
    Very easy to make tweeter mounts for stock location using the factory speakers. Factory dash speaker has plastic frame. Just cut the cone away webbing away leaving the flat frame. I cut a lite weight metal washer from sheet metal to use as a spacer when I tried a set of Alpine tweeters in the dash. As has been reported on here prior, having just a tweeter at the dash, cut off it soo high, mids get lost. Seems you need to be somewhere about 500hz and up at the dash location.
  10. GRN69CHV
    Worked for me.
  11. GRN69CHV

    IMG 2146

    GRN69CHV posted a gallery image in General/Off Topic

    IMG 2146

    From the album: Untitled Album

  12. GRN69CHV

    Untitled Album

    Images added to a gallery album owned by GRN69CHV in General/Off Topic

  13. GRN69CHV
    And PS : I used Blue Loctite on the bolts when reinstalled. Could use the Red Loctite which is a more permanent set, but my tube of red was dried out so the blue had to do.
  14. GRN69CHV
    I looked in the history, didn't show it, so may have been just over 12 months ago. Don't recall if it was this company, but this looks the same. FWIW, you don't have to unbolt anything except loosen the sway bar end links. On the 2015, bolts did not want to go in from the top, I put them in from the bottom, was able to reuse the the factory lock nuts (10mm) which I thought were more substantial. Very simple process, JMHOO, takes more time to get the truck up on stands, pull the wheels and get the tools out. Once you remove the factory bolts, you can use a prybar to get enough clearance to get the spacer in there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-CHEVY-GMC-SILVERADO-SIERRA-07-16-FRONT-1-LIFT-LEVELING-KIT-LOWER-MOUNT/301828109682?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35695%26meid%3D308d11cb8df74c9dbd79e7a6be49daea%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272101221948
  15. GRN69CHV
    Jon, wish I had taken pics, had mine apart a year ago. I had to pry up on the shock to get the spacer in, that's all I can tell you. Can also tell you it doesn't take 2000# force. Those springs are probably 500-600# rate, using a 2' long prybar would only take 25-30# leverage. Any conventional front coil spring car/truck where the shocks go in from the bottom, the shock is always longer than length of travel and gets pushed up to make contact with the LCA. Too cold and wet here now, when the weather warms up, things dry up and I get my spring chores done, I'll make an effort to pull the wheels and take another look just to put this to bed if it's that important. In the meantime, Happy Trucking!
  16. GRN69CHV
    There is a mechanical stop built in. I was surprised there was no rubber stop, but that's how it is. When I disconnected the sway bar ends and the shocks I fully expected the control arms to drop, that was not the case, downward travel was limited by upper control arm hitting that stop. Of all of the hundreds of cars and trucks I've had apart over the past 40 years of working on them, I honestly can't think of one front suspension where the shock travel was less than the suspension travel. Especially in this design, you'd be creating an extreme stress point on those two lower shock bolts. Both the upper and lower stop are factory drilled to add a rubber snubber if desired. And to be clear, if I were inclined to run my truck hard off-road, I'd be inclined to do the Bilstein shock install. Lower control arm has that pocket forged in to help prevent lateral force load. Spacers eliminate that and transfer lateral load to the bolts. That's why a 1/2" spacer was the limit of what I was willing to go.
  17. GRN69CHV
    There is conflicting information. Nothing against Bilstein, but that diagram showing an overextension is not correct for a vehicle that still has the factory installed metal travel limiters (bump stops) still intact. Don't even need to get under the truck to see, driver side turn the wheel far left, you can see the upper stop plain where it would hit the upper control arm on full extension. Compression stop is at back of lower control arm. For the compression stop you can get Timbren bushings to almost completely limit upward movement. I've used these in the past for plowing.
  18. GRN69CHV
    It's physically and mechanically not possible to over extend the factory suspension unless you remove or modify (cut down) the upper bumpstop. Length between the upper and lower control arms is fixed at the spindle and ball joints. Same goes for suspension in full compression, upward travel limit is controlled by the lower bumpstop. I haven't had the shocks out on these trucks, but can tell you from experience, I have never had a suspension apart where the travel limits were controlled by the shock extension or compression with factory bumpstops in place. PS: When I said there was approx 1/2" wiggle room, that's probably not a good explanation. I had to pry up on the shock to get a little spring compression and a little compression against the upper bumpstop to create the space needed. Didn't need a lot pressure but did need prying.
  19. GRN69CHV
    This is why I only went with a 1"kit. Spacer block is 1/2" thick. When I unbolted the shock at lower mount points and lowered the control arm, there was just enough room to wiggle in the 1/2" spacer.
  20. GRN69CHV
    Tires are the stock Bridgestone Dueller RH-S 265/65-18 (31.56" tall). When these are gone, am considering going up one size to 275/65-18 (32" tall) or possibly even 265/70-18 (32.6" tall) which is what comes on the 2500.
  21. GRN69CHV
    Was able to grab a picture of mine with the 1" front end lift. Excuse the appearance, it's still winter here. Ground has a slight slope, not real bad, but you can get a nice look at the relationship between the front and rear tires/wheelwells. Pic in my signature was a year ago when it was sitting stock ride height. 1" difference doesn't seem like a lot, but it does make a difference. Personally, don't think anyone can go wrong with 1" - 1.5" increase in front end ride height.
  22. GRN69CHV
    I did a 1" front end lift (approx. 1/2" thick lower spacer). 1" doesn't seem like a lot, but it was just enough to get rid of a lot of that nose down attitude while still keeping plenty of rake to level out the truck when towing or hauling a load. Within reason, there is enough suspension travel built into the front ends to allow the front ends to operate within intended design geometry. Think about what happens when towing, by design, you add load to the rear of the vehicle and intentionally unload the front end. As for travel, suspension travel is limited by the bump stops. If you go and raise (or lower) the vehicle and modify/remove the bump stops, you can be guaranteed to set yourself up for suspension component failure. I tend to stay conservative though, 1" to 1.5" front end height adjustment is more than enough for my needs. PS, had my truck aligned at stock ride height, never had it rechecked after the 1" lift, tires are wearing perfect. Noticed no difference in handling, etc.
  23. GRN69CHV
    Is the exhaust flapper still intact?
  24. GRN69CHV
    With the exception of having a Bose logo on the speaker and not having an integrated high pass filter, these look identical to the factory non-Bose dash speakers.
  25. GRN69CHV
    Had some free time today, tried out the Bose GM #10302944 mid-tweets I had picked up. Factory speaker uses a 100uf cap which puts the crossover at about 400hz, I only had caps here to crossover at about 1200hz, that was much too high, left nothing in the midrange. For comparison I tried these without any high pass filter (bass cut on head unit only), speakers were bright enough with decent mids but no where near enough volume to fill the truck.
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