GRN69CHV

Mine was consistently going non-functional. It either wouldn't connect to my IPhone or wouldn't have any sound. Had this issue with my '15 Silverado and the '12 Cadillac SRX that I had prior.

My '15 has 59,000 on it. Lifter failed at about 10,000 miles. Truck was leased for 39 months, lease is up in February. I'm debating on whether to buy it out or just turn it in and pay the penalties. Reliability is a concern. AFM was deactivated via reprogram at about 20,000 miles. Difference in running in AFM and without was about .75 mpg loss overall. Seemed the truck was rarely in V-4 mode for long anyway.

Put these on the 2500HD last week, only about 300 miles so far. Compared to the Bridgestone Duravis M700 that came on the truck OEM these are night and day. Duravis had 32500 miles on them, fronts were technically a little over 3/32" but had no siping left at all, center treads were solid rib treads. Rears had 5/32" left, about 2/32" of the block tread left. BS's overall appeared much narrower, and were very rough ride with terrible wet handling. AT/3's ride3 nice, are quiet, and so far were good in the 4" snowfall we just had, to the point where I just drove the truck in 4x2. AT/3's are much wider overall. I realize we went from a worn commercial grade LT tire to an all terrain LT tire, but still big difference. We'll see how they hold up.

Guess I should have opened the owners manual! You guys were talking engine hours and trans temps, didn't even know those settings were available. 2311 hours / 58,600 miles Approx 25 mph average. Kinda funny, cause my wife commutes 8 miles one way (teacher). Drives a Volvo XC60 with a 3.0 turbo'd straight 6, that I kid you not is fast. She putts along at the speed limit (roads she travels on are 45 mph max), factoring in lights, stop signs, etc, the car is averaging 19 mph. I really would've thought my average speed was a lot higher than 25 mph. Thanks for enlightening me.

Where's the hour meter? Mine's at 58600 miles

Whatever works for you. 35's, what load range? I know someone had a similar setup as you. Hauling a car trailer - rolled it. Truck, trailer and car on the trailer. That's why they make 2500HD and 3500's in single rear tire formats now. It's all not just in the springs, frames are much heavier and less prone to twist. Good luck.

Get rid of the 35's, drop it down 2" and put on a set of Load Range E tires in 32-33" height. Rear air bags and load leveler hitch. You'll be fine.

Here's mine with 275/65-18 with 1" front end lift. 285/65-18 is only 1/2" taller and 3/8" wider, so you are looking at 1/4" radius taller. All the 285/65's I found were LT, I wanted to stay with a P-Rated tire. Picture in my signature is side shot, couldn't find it on the computer, might have gotten deleted. This picture shows the air dam trimmed also.

Very easy to make tweeter mounts for stock location using the factory speakers. Factory dash speaker has plastic frame. Just cut the cone away webbing away leaving the flat frame. I cut a lite weight metal washer from sheet metal to use as a spacer when I tried a set of Alpine tweeters in the dash. As has been reported on here prior, having just a tweeter at the dash, cut off it soo high, mids get lost. Seems you need to be somewhere about 500hz and up at the dash location.

Worked for me.

And PS : I used Blue Loctite on the bolts when reinstalled. Could use the Red Loctite which is a more permanent set, but my tube of red was dried out so the blue had to do.

I looked in the history, didn't show it, so may have been just over 12 months ago. Don't recall if it was this company, but this looks the same. FWIW, you don't have to unbolt anything except loosen the sway bar end links. On the 2015, bolts did not want to go in from the top, I put them in from the bottom, was able to reuse the the factory lock nuts (10mm) which I thought were more substantial. Very simple process, JMHOO, takes more time to get the truck up on stands, pull the wheels and get the tools out. Once you remove the factory bolts, you can use a prybar to get enough clearance to get the spacer in there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-CHEVY-GMC-SILVERADO-SIERRA-07-16-FRONT-1-LIFT-LEVELING-KIT-LOWER-MOUNT/301828109682?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35695%26meid%3D308d11cb8df74c9dbd79e7a6be49daea%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272101221948

Jon, wish I had taken pics, had mine apart a year ago. I had to pry up on the shock to get the spacer in, that's all I can tell you. Can also tell you it doesn't take 2000# force. Those springs are probably 500-600# rate, using a 2' long prybar would only take 25-30# leverage. Any conventional front coil spring car/truck where the shocks go in from the bottom, the shock is always longer than length of travel and gets pushed up to make contact with the LCA. Too cold and wet here now, when the weather warms up, things dry up and I get my spring chores done, I'll make an effort to pull the wheels and take another look just to put this to bed if it's that important. In the meantime, Happy Trucking!

There is a mechanical stop built in. I was surprised there was no rubber stop, but that's how it is. When I disconnected the sway bar ends and the shocks I fully expected the control arms to drop, that was not the case, downward travel was limited by upper control arm hitting that stop. Of all of the hundreds of cars and trucks I've had apart over the past 40 years of working on them, I honestly can't think of one front suspension where the shock travel was less than the suspension travel. Especially in this design, you'd be creating an extreme stress point on those two lower shock bolts. Both the upper and lower stop are factory drilled to add a rubber snubber if desired. And to be clear, if I were inclined to run my truck hard off-road, I'd be inclined to do the Bilstein shock install. Lower control arm has that pocket forged in to help prevent lateral force load. Spacers eliminate that and transfer lateral load to the bolts. That's why a 1/2" spacer was the limit of what I was willing to go.