I don't plow and only tow occasionally so I may not be a accurate judge on brakes for these trucks. I have 40k miles on my truck and the brakes have more than 1/2 left on the pads. The rotors are still smooth with no serious grooves . I service the brakes twice a year though.
Maybe I'm wrong but I doubt that some gears and a tune would help with his mpg. It will restore acceleration and result in better overall driveability but not increase mpg The truck is higher and the wheels are heavier so it will burn more gas to get it going and keep it at speed. You want to play you have to pay.
What caused the feathering??? Tires don't feather by themselves. Check tie rods and steering linkage. I had a half ton feather some K02's as well. Dealer couldn't find play in the tie rods. I checked with a jack in the driveway and found it myself. Went to another dealer to replace under warranty. They wouldn't replace the tires though cause they were aftermarket. Very important to keep an eye out for this, it can destroy tires quickly.
My father was a Dodge mechanic for 30 years throughout the muscle car era to economy cars of the 80s and 90s. I asked him once why he worked on Dodges instead of GM or Fords. He said that with Dodge they were always busy. Once he retired he bought a Chevy truck.
I think it is brake dust/rotor dust that is sticking to the soft paint used on newer vehicles then rusting. You can clean it off but it will return before long. White vehicles show it more than darker vehicles but it is still there. I don't buy white vehicles because of this. Having said that white does look really sharp when clean though.
4x4Pete replied to SierraHD17's topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD ModsGood luck with the dealer. I doubt those guys see enough differentials to know how to set one up. Don't forget that they are paid flat rate. They are not paid to care if it's right, close is good enough. Since you would be supplying the parts wartanty would be zero. Better wait for someone who has a reputation for good work and is going to stand behind what they do. Canada seems to be the place where you can't modify anything-it is just as bad or worse in Ontario. I really hope it works out for you without problems.
No wonder they let you replace the faulty camera.....it releives them of all fault and possible future warranty. They will more than likely blame you for everything. Sorry to hear this but I have little faith in dealer service departments. I would probably fix the issues and NEVER deal with them again. If your lucky they will ask you fill out a survey regarding your last interaction. Fill it out, list your concerns in a scathing email. They will respond and you may get things fixed up or the same tech will butcher it even more. Good luck.
You get what you pay for. That is why they call them free. Even if you feel that you paid for them in the purchase price they consider them free and really don't put much care in it. If they cause a problem then they get more warranty work. It's not about you. I will never go to the dealer service department again. Even warranty issues I would rather pay someone to repair it correctly rather than worry about what the dealer may have skipped in their hurry to get it in and out.
I have used Rust Check underbody coating. It comes in green or red cans. I use the green. The red seems a lot like aerosol transmission fluid lol. The green is like a liquified grease it leaches into crevices really well. It comes in aerosol or a thick liquid bulk form. It thickens up to a greasy coating that won't fall off. Anyways I have used the green on my vehicles for years now. A 2004 2500ld I had needed the rear lower rocker panels painted because of rock chip damage. I sprayed it with the green and had no rust issues for 2 years until it was painted. Now it didn't look too good, black greasy areas behind the wheels but it didn't rust at all. I also use it on all brake and fuel line clamps and fittings, up here these places hold salty water for days and rot out the lines. If you have ever done brake and fuel lines on a 99-06 ttuck you would do whatever you could to prevent corrosion. My buddy had a 01 that we had to replace the lines on. He now uses it too. It does cause some melting of the wax coating on the frame but it still doesn't rust where applied. Of course you will need to re apply as like anything else it can get wiped off by grass mud etc. I just go over it annually and have no problems. In the rust belt nothing will work without maintenance even a powder coat will rust throigh. So it doesn't matter what the manufacturer applied it still needs to be maintained. Like they say - maintenance pays.
I get between 12 and 14 mpg as long as I don't push it or remote start too much. I use premium in the summer as I feel that the truck runs better, and smoother. I don't know why but it does. Come the winter though with the longer remote starts and regular gas the mileage drops to about 10 or 11 mpg. It's hard but I'd rather have this 6.0 than a DI 6.2 , reliability plays a big role for me with my vehicles and tools. More power would be nice but not at the expense of reliability. Sometimes like good tools reliability isn't necessarily the most efficient.
Yes it had the 8 digit part numbers. I didn't notice the 8 qts until after I was home. 10 min drive. When I read that they used 8 qts I checked the dipstick and found it way overfilled. Then I googled the part numbers and found listings for the 0w20 and pf63. Partly my fault for not checking while still at the dealer but you shouldn't have to double check their work. If I have any warranty issues and have this dealer do the work. I will definitely have to check what they worked on. Sadly that is the way it is and I hope to not have any warranty ssues
The dealer performed only one of the included oil changes on my 6.0. The put 8 qts of 0w20 and a pf63 filter. They were chewed out pretty good for that fumble. I drained the oil and added 6 qts of 5w30 and left the filter until the next oil change. They must have used loctite on the filter threads. The filter was so tight it was destroyed getting it off I even had to use an air chisel on the edge to remove it. Completely ridiculous. Safe to say not ever going there again. I do my own changes now pf48 or equivalent... use an oil filter strap type wrench...tighten enough to not leak.
300hp and 330lbs/ft????? And people think that the 6.0 is gutless. I really doubt GM would put something in the 2500 series with less power than the existing 6.0. Especially when the all the competition has supposedly more power than the 6.0 as it is. I seriously doubt GM would risk their share of the fleet sales on a v6 powered 2500hd. But who knows.
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