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About paullgj

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  • Birthday 09/16/1945

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  1. Been driving Chevy or GMC’s since 1975 (I’m 73). Always a regular cab short wheelbase stick shift with floor mounted transfer case shifter. But no more. Priced me out of the market - i’m Not spending $50,000 + for an oversized electronic land yacht to beat up rock crawling. First GM dumps the stick shift, then the reg cab SWB. 2019 reg cab has a once speed transfer case. They don’t offer what I need for off roading and priced me out of the market. Having said all that, Tipotex Chevrolet has a 4cyl stick shift 2wd Colorado on the lot for about $19,000that I have my eyes on. Probably the last of the stick shifts as GM has discontinued that in the Colorado line. But it’s not 4wd. My $.02 rant for this morning.
  2. GM has priced me out of the new vehicle market. Looks like I stay with my low tech 2016 reg cab WT (paid for) forever. Sure I’d like a new Tahoe Z71 but at $60,000-70,000 no way.! FWIW I’m in the 70+ age group, never drove Buick’s (always Chevy trucks or Jeep Wranglers), and definitely don’t like the buggy instantly out-of-date infotainment systems. In addition to the price, the new vehicles all seem to have computerized all wheel or 4wd systems. Not so good when one of those modules goes south when you’re on a mountain slope rutted dirt track. My rant. I see GM and others becoming highly specialized and over priced.
  3. Have a 2016 Silverado 1500 2wd reg. cab built in Ft. Wayne. No problems whatsoever. A little off-topic I wanted to buy in Mexico and made in Mexico same thing but with a manual trans (not available in the U.S.). Was told there was no way I could cross it and get it registered in the U.S. What about NAFTA - I thought it was free trade with vehicles Canada/U.S./Mexico?
  4. I've owned a bunch, from '73 to 2016, with everything in between. Always reg. cab, SWB stick shift, 4wd except my current 2016. My favorite - 1995 5.7 V-8. Fairly compact, powerful, agile - wish I had it back. Would cost a fortune to do a frame off restoration. Of the bunch of half tons that I owned the '78 was the most heavy-duty. Cast-iron transfer case cover, creeper gear 4 spd, leaf-springs all around, solid axle.
  5. Don't think it's a GM thing. Had a 2011 Jeep Wrangler - within a year, no warning, dead battery. My wife's 2016 Honda HRV - dead battery in the bank drive through lane - less than a year old. My previous Chevy Silverados - none lasted more than a year. My 2016 Silverado is still going strong, though. Now, I live in extremely hot Lower Rio Grande Valley of South Texas - that might have something to do with short battery life. FWIW, on my wife's Honda, took one look at the battery and decided not to touch it. Jump started it and drove it to the Honda dealer.
  6. Interested run up the flanks of the volcano. Glad to see a 2wd off-roading on dirt trails. I have a similar vehicle - 2016 WT reg. cab with 255/75x17 KO2's and G80 rear end. All I could afford - I'm retired and couldn't spring for a $50,000+ 4wd. I'm in Brownsville, TX, right across from Matamoros, Tamps. I actually tried to buy a 6 spd. manual shift Silverado in Matamoros (U.S. versions are auto only), but there was no way I could legally cross it and register it here. I'll be following your threads as (1.) I'm interested in just how good the 2wd is off road and (2.) I used to do a lot of driving in Mexico, used to go to Cd. Mante about twice a month and spend time in the El Cielo Biosphere. Gene, in Brownsville, Texas
  7. Not a BFGoodrich KO2, but looks like an AT tread with siping in 255/80x17 - Cooper Discoverer ST MAXX: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?ra=searchTiresBySize.do&fl=&pc=19369&counter=0&ar=80&rd=17&cs=255
  8. Another option is KO2 255/80x17 load range E - high profile, tall and narrow. Myself, I prefer high profile 75 or 80 series, better for airing down and offers some rim protection. They should be about 33" overall diameter.
  9. I do a lot of caliche ranch roads with mesquite thorns. No problems so far. The Goodyear Duratrac in 255/75x17 is P-rated and 2 ply sidewall, which is why I went with the BFG KO - LT and C rated, three ply sidewall. Now, the E-rated will be really stiff and heavy, maybe better for your Suburban 'cause it's a lot heavier than my reg. cab.
  10. I've got 255/75x17 KO2 load range C tires on my 2016 reg cab WT - they are three ply sidewall. I prefer the C-rated tire for a number of reasons - stronger than a P-rated, but not heavy enough to affect fuel economy. FWIW, not much noise from the 255/75x17 KO2's. I see you're in Phoenix - your summers are even hotter than ours in South Texas - the KM2's might just burn up on the hot blacktop. One of the reasons I run AT instead of MT's in the South Texas heat.
  11. Same here - had a four door Wrangler. Everyone loved it but me. Felt claustrophobic and couldn't see out of the thing. Now have a Silverado regular cab short-bed - much easier to back up and see side traffic.
  12. I'm still griping about no manual transmission available in full size GM trucks. Bought a 2016 Silverado WT auto - never even considered RAM because of the rotary dial shifter.
  13. The snot covered frame has to be one of the most horses -$$ed engineering moves ever. I was aware of the hot dip wax when I purchased my 2016 Silverado but I naively assumed it was over a black powder coated finish, not the bare metal that it is. So basically beach running and muddy trails are out. I do like the idea of the sprinkler and that's what I'll do to clean the frame. When I took the truck to a detail hand wash place I told them specifically no power sprays on the frame. They were working on a 4 door crew cab, that looked like it had been mudding, most of the snot was gone and the frame showed surface rust. Mine's a reg. cab, Ft. Wayne, Ind.-made, definitely not from the Mexico plant, but I'm still treating the frame with kid gloves.
  14. Looks like I'll go for the lower valence first. Texas is a front license plate state, so that will stay with the upper air dam, until I figure out a replacement. Thanks for the picture - it looks good - nice and clean.
  15. Hi all, Yes, I did a search about air dam removal Silverado 1500 2016-2017 and the results were inconclusive. My vehicle - 2016 reg cab 2wd with G80 locker. Traction not a problem for what I do. But was at a construction site a few days ago - hard pack clay, rutted, a few dips, but nothing major. D----d if I wasn't snowplowing on the front end. So I checked the threads - inconclusive about how to get the thing off without cutting, then there's the issue about the license plate mount. For an interim - how much is involved just to remove the lower valence? A 4wd would have had the same issue as my 2wd 'cause they're the same in the front. What I need is front end clearance. Don't want to do a space lift, as I don't know what it will do to ride/steering geometry. Down the road could go to Fox or King coil-overs, but that probably involves new control arms and additional front end geometry corrections. Gotta do something before I head out to the Gila Wilderness and National Forest in NM. Not necessarily 4wd roads, but they will be rutted with some steep descents. Looking for advice. FWIW, I noticed the new Colorado ZR2 did away with the air dam!
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