Get a copy of https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/883/UI Bulletin_127L.pdf. Show it to your dealer. I have a 2016 Silverado WT with the IO3 radio and today I took a printout of the above PDF with me to my local dealer to have the IO3 radio reprogrammed. I offered the above 3-page PDF hard copy to the tech who had the work order. He accepted the PDF, and 45 minutes later my IO3 radio now has a working fully integrated backup camera image. See pics below. Guide lines are not supported in the IO3 rear view camera image. (I knew this before I ordered the parts.) Also the tech updated my truck's configuration in GM's database so there will be no surprises down the road. I had previously (yesterday) installed the camera model specified in the PDF for 2016 trucks together with a camera-ready latch assembly. I needed two M4 Phillips screws to attach the camera assembly to the latch assembly. For some reason the dealer could not provide these. The screws (male) create their own female threads as they are screwed in to the plastic bosses on the back of the latch on both right and left sides of the camera. Use a toothpick to gauge how long of an M4 screw you can use without pushing thru to the outside of the latch. I used two M4 screws that were about 1/2" long, from Ace Hardware. $0.25 each. The specified camera came with an extra leg on its electrical harness which I did not use. The extra leg supports remote tailgate locking and since I didn't care for the loud locking noise associated with remote tailgate locking, I did not complicate the job by trying to expand the scope of the project to also add a remote tailgate lock. Instead I just wrapped this extra leg back onto the main harness with 3 layers of electrical tape so it wouldn't dangle or provide an entrance for water and corrosion. I anchored this harness by pushing the provided anchor into one of the two holes in the sheet metal suitable for this purpose. Then I routed the harness down through the holes in the tailgate sheet metal at the inside bottom, and then through the similar sized hole in the sheet metal of the bed, then along side an existing loom to the junction block where the camera ready 8-wire connector was capped with a dummy plug (to keep it clean). I removed the dummy plug/cap, plugged in the new harness, and for the last step I zip tied it to the existing loom to keep it from dangling and to make it look professional. Then today I took it to the dealer as I said above, and the project was completed. camera 84062896 latch 84016231 dealer reprogram of IO3 radio Total investment was about $290 including shipping of the camera and latch. 2nd and 3rd pictures show the field of view. Truck was in same exact position for pics 2 and 3.
Since JCF hasn't responded I'll take a crack at it. The specific 8-wire connector that supports both the camera and the lock is located below the bed, near the spare tire, on the driver's side. There are a number of 6 or 8 wire connectors anchored to a plastic connector mount at this location. JCF did not make any changes here. JCF apparently opened his tailgate, removed the tailgate latch service panel on the inside of the tailgate (about 10 torx screws) revealing the latching and locking mechanism. Then he identified the lock/unlock solenoid and unplugged its 2-wire plug/harness. Then he replaced the access cover and closed his tailgate...then tested and found good results. He did not affect his camera by doing what he did. The 8 wire camera/lock connector debuted on 2016 trucks. Previous model years use a 6-wire camera connector.
It might be that your strobes didn't cause the problem. Heck, I have a strobe, and now this has me a wondering about mine. My strobe is wired to the snow plow prep roof lamp wiring. Mine's more likely to cause spikes than yours is. If Whelen's strobes had a problem blowing out TPS sensors, it'd be on the internet by now. I checked; didn't find anything. I think you're ok.
Did the "Reduced engine power" message come on when you took your foot off the pedal after the 70-75 mph cruise? Apparently there are two throttle position sensors near your gas pedal, A, and B. Actually they must be in the same module, but they apparently have independent electronics. Well apparently the output from A didn't agree with the output from B, so the code was set and the "reduced engine power" message was displayed, and your computer entered "limp" mode. Seems like overkill, to enter limp mode just because of the throttle position sensors being faulty... maybe they're keeping a fail safe on this because it's so highly critical that the throttle position sensor never malfunction in the sense that it applies more throttle than you were asking for. So if it's in doubt, limp mode ensures you could overcome the measly "reduced power mode" throttle with a light application of the brake. I think your dealer's techs must have wondered how the position sensor failed, must be a rare event. That's why they were asking about your strobe. Even if the strobe has shielded wiring all the way to the battery, it can still send spikes through your electrical system. Hypothetically speaking, I think a spike is one thing that could have fried half of your throttle position sensor.
When (if) it gets above 260 you get a message like "engine hot" in the DIC. Then I think at about 265 you get "engine overheated". But even then it doesn't go to "Reduced power mode". I don't know how hot it has to be to do that. Above 270.
I wonder if maybe your thermostat had stuck shut. Was this drive where this happened starting from a cold engine? Hopefully there'll be a code in the computer that will explain what happened.
I didn't see an 02 sensor in your list. Has it ever been replaced? The hesitation sounds like a lean-out. Maybe the O2 sensor is telling the computer there's oxygen there when there isn't. So the computer doesn't enrich the mixture...and you get a lean stumble.
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