bgweed

They will hold up fine. Had mine on my 2016 AT, no issues with trips to Indiana in the winter and trips to the gulf coast beach in the summer. I scraped them on rocks (hard) and the brackets held up fine... Scraped off the coating but a year later no issues where the bare stainless was exposed. I liked them enough that I didn't even shop, I just called and ordered a new set for my 2020 AT4.

Would it be possible to mount it on the underside of the tailgate in the recess? I think it would look good if you saw the glow but not the light itself.

I'm familiar with CV angles, but the point of the split spacer is to try to alleviate that somewhat. The photos people are posting of the motofab 1.5" don't look bad, and I don't think the Rough Country sounded bad from verbal description. Yours looks significatly worse... glad you clarified that was on level ground! Also, I was curious as to why onl the 4WD Auto being the issue... seems like that angle should be a major issue under power for other modes. Anyway, I think I'll skip this one and maybe go with Motofab or Rough Country.

Any idea why this could be? How could you damage your front diff using a spacer kit?

Mine is nearly silent at highway speeds. I've got about 500mi on it over the last week. A hell of a lot quieter at cruising than my Corsa on my 2016 5.3. I'll measure decibels on my phone but I don't have a way to calibrate it / confirm it.

Yeah, that way you can flash your lights whenever you spray your windows. It let's everyone know you can't see for a moment. Nah I mean 16 - headlamp relay control. It doesn't say high beams, but maybe OBO will get lucky and it's related to highs. I don't have a pinout for the other BCM connector that sits next to this one on 1st gen Acadia.

If you have a multimeter, check pins 11 and 15 and see what the voltages are with regard to the fog / headlight status. You may be able to do something similar.

Should be fine - a 6A diode nearly always has a peak or RMS reverse voltage above our truck electrical voltage.

Before I place my order, can you confirm the part number? The manufacturer lists a similar part number that indicates (GM). Thanks!

Here's a driver's side set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/142495634667 I actually have a set of 2016 OEM chrome bars with all the brackets. I'd prefer to sell it all together but let me know if you want to try to make a deal in any case. I'm in Houston.

Thanks for the added detail. Regarding 3 v 4 studs, do you think it's necessary to install the 4th stud? I recall someone saying the 4th stud may be removable, but I don't know for sure.

What do you mean by "until yesterday"?

To expand Bushleaguechew's clarification: Diode as you had it: reverse comes on with cargos. Diode opposite as you had it: cargos come on with reverse Wire: cargos + reverse whenever either cargos or reverse are requested.

double-post - delete

Couple videos you can review before you start. I'm planning on doing mine Friday (been putting it off for a while). If you were closer to Houston, I'd say stop by and we both trucks.

How is the placement of the steps? Heard some complaints on N-Fabs about the step not being in the right position for natural entry / exit.

$75? Seems really low when I add up the price of the parts in post #16. Can you clarify what you did? Carl's kit looks to be the best route, but I'll wait to see what jetlife says above (considerable cost difference).

My post was saying that focusing on the wheel's center of gravity is not correct. The center of gravity could be the same before or after a spacer, depending on the design of the wheel. However, this isn't the issue. The stock wheel's offset is chosen based on the location of the wheel bearing to locate the wheel such that the wheel's vertical supporting force directly opposes the force from the weight of the vehicle, preventing a moment (axial torque) on the bearing. It's also not correct to say that using a spacer to re-center the wheel will put more stress on a bearing. If I started with a +26 stock wheel, then installed a +50 offset wheel with a 1" spacer, the relationship from wheel centerline to bearing centerline has not changed and there will NOT be more stress on the bearing. If you want to kill a bearing, get a huge negative offset and/or a big wheel spacer, which puts the supporting force further outboard than the force of vehicle weight. Now the forces are not opposed, so you have a moment on the bearing.

Could you do me a solid and take a picture of the brake line bracket area? It's right in front of the reservoir on the driver side shock.

Perfect timing. I was trying to get this done but didn't know what to do with my brake line bracket. Can you show me what you did?

Can you guys recommend some underhood locations to mount 2 relays side by side? Pics would be appreciated as well.

She sounds hideous.

That's fairly concerning. I had mine aligned right after my level kit (toe was way off), but haven't checked it since.

So your setup is an Alpine PWE-S8 and LC2i? Do you have Bose?

If I understand you correctly, you want the light bar to come on with the high beams, but only when you also have the light bar switch on at the same time. I think your best bet may be the 5thGenDIY harness with the high-beam trigger. You can route the trigger (which is active-high, as in "on" is 12V) through any on-off switch, then to the relay. That way your switch interrupts or allows the high-beam trigger to determine whether it turns on your light bar. You are correct in that the BCM pins operate by grounding (called active-low) to turn something on. If you find yourself in Houston, I have a diode with your name on it.