truckguy82

Consider a cordless handheld vacuum, just because it's not a direct relationship between amperage draw and suction power. They are also pretty convenient to use power aside.

The hedge trimmer I use is 3.3amps, or 363 watts@110volts. You’re talking about 15 amps @ 12 volt, and nobody is going to know what their 110volt tool draws unless they do the math, which most won’t.

I’ve powered a hedge trimmer with it. I feel like I’ve powered a few other things but forget what they were. Never had any issues. But definitely a hedge trimmer on multiple occassions.

The minimal gains, plus difficulty of install, plus cost, should make it the last of the bolt ons.

As soon as I hit a pothole I was like “worth it” there’s more value to the 5100’s then just leveling the truck

Screw it might just do them myself, just tired of getting dirty and I’m so busy these days. $150 I’d do, but $350 def not

Local shops I’m assuming? Pep boys was $350 without alignment. I’d assume thats a nationwide price.

Anyone know what a shop should charge for labor for installing the 5100's up front. I already did the rears, took like 15 minutes lol. The fronts I called up a few shops and got 2 quotes, $350 and $400, that's just for labor. 4 hours labor. That seems really expensive.

Arrived in 2 days, no tax, free shipping, doesn’t get much better than that.

Update So far - with no inquiry from me, just received a personal email from the owner that they should ship out later today and will give me a tracking number soon, and thanked me for my order. looking good so far

He’s active on the forum, so he can’t be that bad. Scammers get ruined on forums. I took my chances, seems like an alright guy.

Haha moore tech racing is same as MRT motorsports i think. I’m saying screw it to 6112. Too much money. I’d consider shocks other than 5100 if they only had a few good reviews, but there’s like a thousand people saying they are great. Seems like a no-brainer if you ask me. ordering now lol

I'd like to order some 5100's today. Anybody know the cheapest place to get them currently?

I have dust too, wish I had bought some canned air or turned on the compressor. I just wanted to get it done so I’m like screw it. beam pattern looks great IMO

I would try taking the truck off a huge jump, the temporary lack of gravity might cause it to float up

swoyer and I pretty much did it at the same time and we were messaging back and forth As someone thats never done it before, it was quite a bit more difficult than I expected. Initially I was not pleased I took that path. In the end, it obviously worked out and the headlights look amazing. It is indeed a solid 7 hours if you’re taking your time trying to do it right. If I had to do it a second time, I could probably do it in 3-4 hours, but that’s still quite a bit of work. The good news is, that unlike most jobs working on cars, a lot of the time is spent on the work bench. Which is obviously far easier than turning wrenches on your back and the 7 hours is mostly enjoyable. I’d probably do it again knowing how much work it was. I can understand why a custom shop would charge several hundred in labor. Phil from fastheadlights said it would be easy lol, I guess some people have different ideas of easy. I do have to say, if you are going to buy a retrofit, it’s pretty much impossible to beat the customer service at fastheadlights. I was literally texting Phil at 8pm asking questions and he said multiple times “don’t hesitate to ask me anything” and yeah, I’m like $315 all in and my headlights are incredible

I just spoke with Phil from fast headlights on the phone. I had no idea the projector retrofits actually come with the bulbs and ballasts. Only $350 - 10% for forum members and you get an easy to install d2s 4.0 projector, ballasts, and bulbs. All this time I thought you needed to buy the projector retrofit and then you buy the bulbs and ballast. I mean it’s $180 for the morimoto hid kit. For only $135 more you get a projector upgrade and hid kit. Only $315 to have top of the line headlight output and beam pattern. That’s definitely a no brainer.

Self cleaning oven that turns carbon into dust = 900-1000 degrees catalytic converter = 1200-1600 degrees

I’m about 90% sure it doesnt open until 190-195 degrees. The thing is the filter doesn’t need to be constantly filtering. It just needs to do it once in awhile. picture having a loop of water running through a brita filter. It’s not going to make much difference if it runs through continously or just does it once a week. The filter should remove most of the contaminants on one pass. If you’re only reaching 170 on your way to work, I suggest having a little fun on your way to work once in awhile.

I think it stays open during winter months too. I mean there seems to be little change in trans temps depending on ambient temps, just like our coolant temps.

Can confirm trans fluid goes into the driver side of the trans cooler and out the passenger side I had a failed trans thermostat that just let out a trickle of flow so I'd always feel the lines with my hand while I was diagnosing my issue. Driver side would always be hot, and passenger side would always be cold, which meant the flow through the trans cooler slow enough that it got cooled to ambient temps.

Oh definitely a door sensor. That should be a relief

Sure no problem Power step purpose = Running boards are bad because they reduce ground clearance. Running boards are good for egress and ingress. Power running boards have the good without the bad. Push button start purpose = incase you haven’t figured it out, nobody actually gives a shit about pushing a button to start it as if it’s just neat and different way to start a vehicle. It’s real purpose is for keyless driving. You don’t need your keys to enter the vehicle or start the vehicle. It is convenient, especially when you have your hands full.

This happens to me almost every time I stall shocks. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Tighten everything down, go for a ride, have a clunk, need to re-tighten.

Pretty much any shock other than the standard ranchos will improve large bump absorption, assuming thats what your issue is. I haven’t tried any other besides ranchos and mag ride. Based on reviews from everybody, seems like feeling the little stuff is not going to go away, but the difference is when you hit something large like a big pot hole or speed bump. The ranchos are just the worst shock I’ve ever driven in that regard. It takes a pot hole like my lowered turbo civic from 15 years ago.