truckguy82

Trying to find out information on upgrading headlights in this thread is so damn time consuming. There is so much information just spread out. I'm sure there are a few people who know almost every option and the ups and downs. So maybe someone knowledgeable could just quote this post and fill in the blanks and we can sticky it at the front. Headlight upgrades 2014-2015 sierra slt/denali - Good - $ - Morimoto HID upgrade- ? Installation difficulty: 4? Better - $$ - d2s 4.0 ? Installation difficulty: 7? Best - $$$ - fxr 3.0? Installation difficulty: 9? I basically made up the answers to this one for use as an example, the expert can edit 2016-2018 sierra slt/denali (upgraded led projectors) Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2014-2015 Sierra non-hid Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2016-2018 Sierra base headlights Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2014-2015 Silverado projector headlights - Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2014-2015 silverado el cheapo Halogen headlights Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2016 - 2018 silverado high end headlights (don't know what kind they are, edit this) Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty: 2016-2018 silverado low end headlights (don't know what kind they are, edit this) Good - $ - installation difficulty: Better - $$ - installation difficulty: Best - $$$ - installation difficulty:

I have never gotten better mileage after my tune. It just changes your driving habits so much that its impossible.

I have a sierra slt with 20’s, and I had a sierra denali loaner with 22’s and mag ride The mag ride was exactly like that, you could feel everything. but when you hit a pot hole, my god the mag ride does so much better than the standard suspension. Just an fyi on the brighter side of mag ride

My first as well, im super duper cautious I thought it if like this. risk = worst case scenario = lost engine and trans, not covered under warranty, cost to replace $13k chance of either one if them happening, realistic is likely 0.01%, but lets say the chance is 1%. If you have a 1% chance of losing $13k, you can look at it as your tune is costing you an extra $130. Just go with a reputable tuner and live a little. The truck is so much better. The risk, calculated accounting style, shows very little actual risk.

Search for evidence online that a truck’s drivetrain was denied a warranty claim because of just a tune. I couldn’t find any.

I had my 6.2 tuned about a year ago. The power never gets old. It never feels slow. I have no idea how a measely 420hp pushes 5500lbs so hard. btw, you haven’t lived until you, put it in 4wd auto, turn off traction control(important), and launch it. Switch back to 2wd right after the launch (it just decouples the clutch diff, not bad for it at all)

Well, the trans cooler lines will not get hot until the trans is at 185+ degrees so you can drive around for 15 minutes and feel whats hot and whats not, then wait another 15 minutes when the trans gets to operating temp and it will be super hot if its the trans line

what's wrong with defenders, getting some great reviews on tire rack. Was about to pull the trigger on defender ltx m/s

Wtf gm, I didn’t buy a range rover

Don’t worry about it, its easy to hear, easy to see, and easy to fix if it happens. you’ll hear a very obvious clunking noise I’m assuming I’m doing something wrong when I do shock installs. FYI it only applies to independant suspension with the bolts on the top of the strut tower. The nuts are right on top in the engine bay and clear as day. Only applies to the front suspension on our trucks.

Yeah I’ve done several shock installs, I don’t know why it happens, but it seems like everyone I do the top needs to get tightened again.

I would think city driving would count as severe. I spent a lot higher percentage of my time in lower gears and accelerating than say someone that lives in a rural area. An engine that does 10k miles in 1st gear will have like 5 times as much use as an engine that does 10k miles on the highway. nobody does 10k miles in 1st gear, but you get my point

Don't have it on my sierra, but I had it on a CTS I rented for a week and put 1000 miles on it. OMFG I love it. I've used other systems and the GM system is fantastic. Wow does it take the stress out of traffic congestion. My first time using it in bumper to bumper traffic I felt tempted to light a cigar and drink some neat scotch

Personally I would ask them to do both. Drop the pan, change the filter, and flush it. It’s really the only way to really change all the fluid and the filter.

I’m fairly certain the reason it’s difficult to flush is because the trans thermostat blocks flow until 190 degrees

Yeah and u’ll get a whopping 2 quarts of new fluid

Kinda funny to say it effects a small amount of people in the same post as referencing an 800 page thread Not sure where you guys came up with this small number of people thing

Heads/cam are the same

Oh its definitely the one I posted, I just went through this

Well don't know where you got it from, but the part GM 25815554 you listed does not exist on a 2014-2017 1/2 ton tailgate Here's the part he needs, the bushing on our tailgates Here's the one you told him to get, this part number is infact for a '07-'13 tailgate I wouldn't mind so much if you weren't so confident in your advice. You were 100% sure, and this guy would have wasted money if he listened to you.

You may not want to tell someone to order parts from the previous generation truck correct part number is gm 84131760

it's not dented I just made this thread, just needed to search the keyword "tailgate" http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/203858-tailgate-not-slow-opening-anymore/?hl=tailgate

Been on active on multiple car forums for 17 years now, that's is one of the weirdest responses I've ever seen.

Well behind the rear axle would be better weight distribution for drag racing, unless of course you're doing wheelies

Its only 13hp, probably just about compensates for the weight of the system. I only want it for the city mpg. My daily driving is mostly city. Recapturing that all that energy that a 5500lb land monster has while braking would be awesome.