truckguy82

Ummm that doesn’t look bad at all its black and nasty looking but as far as Actual buildup not that bad

I know you’re just messing around, but a tool battery is probably like 0.1kwh, and the smallest Truck battery is probably about 90kwh

I run 5w-30 in my truck vettes and camaro’s call for it with the same exact motor lol at everybody thinking it’s not ok

So my compartment is full nearly all the time with paperwork. My latch gets stuck all the time. The damn thing will just not open. I figured out the trick. For some odd reason when there is any pressure pushing up on the lid (like if you slammed it shut when the compartment was too full) the mechanism will simply not operate. All you gotta do is push down on the lid and then use the mechanism. Hopefully this helps.

I’m assuming this thread is so gm can obtain feedback on the consumer interest in an electric truck. Yes GM, everybody wants an electric truck. The only people that don’t are people who haven’t driven a tesla. The truck is the perfect platform for electric. Advantages -low end torque, I don’t need to explain this one. -battery weight is a huge downside to normal vehicles, a truck is already very heavy, some extra weight makes little difference in everything except fuel consumption -said battery weight can basically be placed whereever, which means much lower center of gravity -electric vehicles have the ability to regen using their mass, which means more weight does not effect fuel economy as much -a motor on each axle, amazing traction, perfect for off-roading and no transfer case to break. Much simpler than a traditional awd/4wd system -gas efficiency has a lot to do with the weight. Which is why my 6.2 gets 10mpg in an urban environment and 24-25mpg on the highway. Acceleration and deceleration is what costs us so much in fuel, yet is where electric vehicles shine. Add towing a trailer to that and you just compound that -an electric vehicle can act as basically a huge power station for contractors to operate tools or for someone camping -fast, the truck would be a riot to drive downsides- -the highway and wind resistance is where electric does not shine. A full size truck towing a big trailer would surely not fair well compared to gas considering it does not involve deceleration. You’d need a huge battery and that battery would take a long time to charge. -cost, you’ll need a big battery, and that’s a big expense, can you make the truck at a viable price point cliffs- as a gm truck owner, and someone that primarily drives in urban/suburban areas, I will be buying the tesla truck as soon as it comes out. A lot of people will if it isn’t hideous. Better jump on it soon because other than long range towing, the electric truck will be better at nearly everything.

Anybody know if the piece he inserted is that little white piece? Hows does it stay in there?

It will certainly not mod for mod beat a 6.2 you’re forgetting about the compression ratio It’s likely just behind the 6.2 in every single mod, just like it is stock. The only advantage it will hold is all big hp builds. And when you’re at that point, does it really matter which one you started with?

Yeah the only time I’d do a 6.2 swap is if I was building jesus’s pickup ......a 6.2 rcsb

I one timed cleaned my maf with maf cleaner. All i did was unplug it, Took it out, spray it down, and put it back in. About an hour later I drove it. Obviously all the maf cleaner had long since evaporated. My radiator fans were running full tilt for like 10 minutes, just because I unplugged my MAF and plugged it back in, while the truck was completely off. Cliff notes, they certainly have some odd programming for those fans. There is zero reason for them to run full tilt in the winter when the motor is cold, just because I unplugged the maf when the truck was completely off. Good luck

Dude, custom tune. if you had cold weather issues with your other tunes it was just a coincidence. I’ve driven nearly every year and every motor of k2xx, they all feel the same. a custom tune is night and day. The lazy throttle is the torque management. Nothing to do with ignition or fuel tables.

I’m not doubting its better, I’m doubting it’s “that” much better. I’m also doubting your civic would not be in nearly the same condition had you used regular oil. I use mobile 1 extended performance.

Next your going to tell me your mercedes 240d lasted a long time because of synthetic

A civic with a long lasting drivetrain is your anecdotal evidence? I once bought a a ‘95 civic somebody never changed the oil it, it had 95k miles on it and a hole in the block where the rod punctured it. I could literally stick my fist into the block. well guess what, I still drove that civic for 2 miles to a mechanic. Yes, a civic that had no oil in it, had been sitting for a year, with a hole in the block, down a cylinder, still drove 2 miles. you could probably put olive oil into 90’s civic crankcase and it’s get you to 200k Synthetic was not why it lasted a long time

That’s ridiculous. Modern engines are way way more reliable than older engines. Hell even supercar engines are way more reliable than they were in the 90’s.

I wasn’t really talking about engines from 1936

It’s probably more like 500k miles with synthetic and 700k miles with your super oils Let be honest here, most engine failures have little to do with the lubrication if you’re changing it responsibly i dont know about you, but every car I’ve trashed had nothing wrong with the engine and that’s without even using synthetic. The engines last far longer than the body, interior, frame, ancillary engine pieces, transmission. I think you’re wasting money using a considerably more expensive oil. take the extra money your spending on amsoil over mobile 1, and do an extra trans/diff/transfer case oil change, likely a better allocation

Do you know how to google? first code says low voltage from a circuit 2nd code says maf sensor check your maf sensor, maybe clean it with maf sensor cleaner, check your intake connections and the wiring to the maf, make sure it’s plugged in etc.

Every k2xx with over 10k miles I’ve driven makes this noise

How did you install? Did you take apart the springs to install that or simply jack up the truck and shove it in there?

Eh I’m sure its faster, tough to tell by looking at speedos also for that 0-60 run, it was on a cool night, I had nothing in the bed, and an 1/8th tank of fuel. Basically perfect conditions.

Why does a 6speed 6.0 with a massive 2.9 whipple not seem much faster than a bone stock w/tune 6.2

Its not even skilled, its giving a shit imo. I’d think every career mechanic has enough skill to properly diagnose. It just takes a lot of time. i have never found a mechanic that didnt just replace parts to solve a problem. other than the dealer, which thankfully has a step by step process for diagnosis which works some of the time

A service center doing proper diagnosis without guess work omfg, hahahaha, best joke I’ve heard in awhile

You have to feel the lines. When your transmission is hot, like 200 plus, you have to feel your trans lines. if one is hot and one is much cooler, problem has been solved, your thermostat. if they are both hot, good luck go under your truck and feel the if you want

I’ve had issues with all of them. mostly connectivity issues and switching sources on my phone. it’s been the same issue in all of my loaners so if you didn’t have any you were probably just a basic user. For someone that uses nothing but streaming music services and is constantly on the phone, the k2xx was an issue. Not the end of the world, but issues for sure existed on all of your trucks.