truckguy82

Nope because I said the same thing you’re saying now, and then I got schooled i dont have the time right now to take you to brake school but I can if you want on a week day

Lol i understand more clamping force is required clamping force is irrelevant you should take some engineering courses

The only advantage to larger brakes is increased heat capacity and increased dissipation of heat. How much force the pad needs to apply to the rotor is not relevant

And yet when you increase the diameter by 10x (putting them on the outside) they are suddenly weaker you don’t understand the physics of using a friction surface to stop something. why on earth would they move the brakes to the inside if the larger diameter has increased braking power? This is a common misconception that some intelligent people don’t understand. Including You and bike radar. And including myself until I got schooled by someone that actually engineers brakes. brake rotor diameter has nothing to do with increase mechanical advantage. I realize you’re all picturing a 6” long wrench and a 12” long wrench in your head. i promise you are wrong

You are wrong about the lever effect. Think about bicycle disc brakes vs Traditional cantilever brakes. The disc brakes are all the way center and work even better

If that’s all it is, anybody who doesn’t tune their 8l90 is missing out big time It’s awesome in the camaro.

I’ve rented a ‘16 camaro ss auto and I’ve driven a 6.2 denali 8sp numerous times. I punished that camaro for a week. both 6.2’s with 8 speeds It is absolutely amazing that it is the same trans. They don’t feel remotely similar. The camaro shifts are so much faster and more aggressive. The 1-2 shift in the camaro feels like you got rear ended by a bus in comparison. 8l90 is amazing in the camaro, I’ve asked numerous people on the differences and nobody knows.

Tons but never any major powertrain. Had my injectors replaced and my trans thermostat replaced. They’ll only scan it if you need something major replaced. And that’s just what I assumed. I don’t even flash back to stock to take it in.

Then yes, it’s worth it, my 0-60 went from 5.9 to 5.0 with just a tune. I am completely stock. But that’s including the trans tune. I would get some feedback from someone who’s done an ecm only tune though to be sure.

Whatever modifies the torque management and the throttle response. That’s worth $550. if that’s in the tcm, then no, not worth it

We have a member here that owns the site fastheadlights.com i believe he might have a discount for forum members. Just get the hylux ballast with morimoto bulbs. Auto works perfectly as does everything else.

I have the hylux on my ‘14 and it’s been no different than oem reliability for 2 years now.

Were you running it on 87?

Yeah cars!!!! Do you have any idea how much the physics of braking can change from raising the center of gravity? An unloaded truck during full braking is likely carrying 90% of it’s weight on the front axle. It’s like the inverse of launching a dodge demon with slicks and skinnies

Rofl where do you think traction is under heavy braking, especially with something with a high center of gravity, especially something with a heavy forward weight bias. The worst kind of advice is the kind that sounds like it’s from somebody that knows what they are talking about but they really don’t.

The c7 vette, which the engine is identical, has a stock redline of 6500 rpm. So 6200 is no problem.

Torque actually looks pretty bad on the low end. Looks like it doesn’t start pulling until 3700ish. definitely more up top though

No dyno sheet?

Do they salt in canada? when I lived in ND they didn’t use salt because the outside temp is usually lower than the melting point of salt water

Thanks, and to spare me a lot of searching parts required? I believe I need a new brain for the infotainment, but can keep everything else? any advantage to doing it in tandem with the denali cluster upgrade? fyi I only use the mobile site, so if you have any links in your sig, I can’t see them. The admin of this site thought it would be fine to not include a desktop format link for phone users.

What was your total cost?

Lol at custom frames and suspension world. you obviously don’t come from the motor building world. any sort of all-motor build, aka NA build, involves making it breath as much as possible. Cams, heads, exhaust, intake, etc etc etc. They all produce hp by allowing the motor to breath. When you allow a motor to breath it moves the power band to the right. It sacrifices low end hp to make hp up top. This is great in a sports car, but horrible for a 5500lb truck unless your going high stall race only truck with no streetability. Can you make 800hp NA, sure, but it will ruin the streetability. That is why you don’t see NA build trucks. Now I’m not talking about bolt on, I’m talking about legit NA builds. but being a real enthusiast, and not a keyboard warrior, you must already know all this The LT platform has been taken to it’s limits 100’s of times, you can find this info out on corvette forums and camaro forums. You surely knew that as well.

You have a 5500lb truck, an all motor build is a bad idea. Any respectable NA build will have shit for bottom end torque and you’ll ruin the truck. not sure why you mentioned turbo’s also if you don’t know what all motor means, thats ok too.

Damn aluminum heads, oven cleaner would turn that into liquid carbon in like 10 minutes.

Follow the directions fastws6 gave you, except use a hot knife instead of a dremel. I used a dremel, wasnt too happy with results. Also make sure you actually use the 2 brackets when putting the headlight back together (or use your own) Most of the difficulty is getting the headlight out of the truck. The actual headlight bench work was pretty easy and straight forward. it was my first time removing anything from my truck, and my first time working on headlights. Took me 7-8 hours while following directions very carefully. Much of it was time on the bench so, so it was a relaxing 7-8 hours