OnTheReel

No fancy DRLs on the Custom. I’m sure cost is a big factor, but beyond that, the 14-15 headlights were absolutely atrocious. They basically HAD to use the HIDs in everything to get them by. It would have cost more to redesign a separate new halogen housing for the 16-18 base models.

4 AUTO engages the front axles but sends very little power to the front wheels until slip is detected. The power distribution is handled by an electronic clutch in the transfer case. In auto, there is a slight fuel economy penalty and also more noise / vibration, both due to having the axles engaged and more rolling resistance. Also, in theory, driving all the time in 4 AUTO would increase wear on the transfer case clutch and assorted components. Although it is “safe” to use all the time, you really should be in 2WD unless the road conditions are sloppy. I usually use 4A if there’s been a snowfall in the last couple days and the roads and parking lots aren’t all the way cleaned up. I also have been known to slip it into 4A if I feel like the guy next to me wants to have a little stoplight race. Otherwise it’s 2H basically all the time.

Looks great! Congrats!

Just email [email protected] with the VIN and ask for your build sheet. I emailed them on a Saturday night and got the sheet emailed to me Sunday afternoon.

Yeah, mine has done this, but not lately. I was wondering if maybe it did it thinking I was hooking up a trailer or something. The manual also mentions it periodically sets the brake to make sure it’s all working, so it might be that too.

Ah, I always put mine vertical so I guess that’s why it works out for me. You really want CPII anyway, if only for the Bose. The standard stereo is insulting for the price of the truck.

The wireless charging does seem very slow on my truck with my iPhone X. Lucky to get a few percent on a short trip...but if nothing else it’s a convenient place to put the phone and easily see it. I don’t care for the layout of the console without the charging pad. If I desperately need a lot of juice I hook it up to my cable in the console anyhow.

Damn, that sucks. It does happen a lot more than you’d think though. I didn’t know anything about this phenomenon until it happened to my dad’s Cadillac. Sometimes a latent defect or chip in the glass from installation will just “go off”. In this case though, I would bet that a poorly fitting frame probably over-stressed the glass in some way. Given the amount of back window issues these trucks have had, hopefully GM will take care of it for you.

Put on the matte black “Chevrolet” tailgate insert. Very subtle on a black truck, but when the light catches it right, it really pops.

Thanks! I don’t mean to repeat myself about it, but the same questions keep popping up about their CAI. GM could squash it by posting the numbers themselves, but I suspect they don’t for a reason...

Same here. The exhaust is good for 13hp according to GM. No numbers for the CAI alone, but GMC reports that the CAI AND exhaust add 15hp in the AT4 performance package. That would leave 2hp to be attributed to the intake.

When the camera screen is up, press the little arrow all the way on the lower left. There should be two more buttons that appear. One toggles the birds eye view and the other toggles the guidance lines between the hitch one and the normal one. Mine seems to change itself once in awhile.

I'm with ya. Granted my LTZ has plenty of chrome. I saw someone wrap all of the chrome on their LTZ, and take the emblems off...it looked like a straight up WT or Custom, especially from the rear. To each their own I guess.

The exhaust isn’t obnoxious at all but certainly a noticeable difference over the stock exhaust which is basically silent at all engine speeds. If I’m honest, it was a little louder than I expected for a “factory” part and it took a little getting used to. Overall, I have no complaints there because it calms down VERY nicely at cruising speeds. There is no drone at all and sounds pretty much the same as it did before on the highway. Stop and go, in-town type driving you do hear some more rumble in the cab, but it’s not to the point of having to speak up or anything. Cold starts are on the loud side until the idle drops but that’s the only time I hear it from in my house. I think it’s a very nicely designed kit and I’m very happy with it. The performance boost is a great plus, as it’s good for 13hp on the 6.2. Videos are very tough to judge how it sounds. I am going to make more shortly but for now I just have the two vids below. Obviously a Chevy, but the same exhaust part # and engine you have.

The wiring going to the steering wheel probably costs GM more than the switches themselves. I’d be really surprised if it were there, and you’d have to wonder why they didn’t just put the damn switches in!

They are on High Country and SLT & Up Sierra. The rest of us have to make do with the dumb little bulb down there. I’m 99% sure swapping it to LED without a load resistor would cause hyper-flash but haven’t had a chance to try it yet.

I’ve never seen one. You can’t even build it on the website so I’d assume those are Custom TBs at your dealer.

That’s fine, but we aren’t talking about a 2015. This is the axle list for T1s. 8.6" axle 3.42 gear - 10-4091 / 19300457 High Efficiency 75W-85 (AAM) 9.5", Ratio RPO GU5 3.23 gear, Supplier RPO code SU7 - 10-4091 / 19300457 High Efficiency 75W-85 (AAM) 9.5", Ratio RPO GU5 3.23 gear, Supplier RPO code SU8 - 10-4122 / 19368514 Dexron Low Viscosity 75W-85 (GM) 9.5", Ratio RPO GU6 3.42 gear - 10-4091 / 19300457High Efficiency 75W-85 (AAM) - With 6 speed auto ONLY. WT/Custom/CustomTB. 9.76" rear axle 3.42 gear - 10-4091 / 19300457 High Efficiency 75W-85 (AAM) *Note. Must ID the RPO codes to match proper fluids due to there being two different axle suppliers, GM and AAM.

I have NHT, but from everything I’ve read, all of the 3.23s are 9.5. They have two different suppliers, GM and AAM. Different RPO codes but both listed as 9.5.

Super easy. Plastic trim removal tool. Lift up under one edge and it basically just falls off. The clips look like they would be tighter than the actually are. The old badge comes off unharmed and new one on in less than a minute.

Thanks for posting!

https://www.autoanything.com/car-care/77A3935A3070949.aspx? They are awesome for grills, wheels, etc. Think they also make a smaller, cheaper handheld one.

I don’t know how much powder coating costs but you can just buy the OEM red ones on eBay for $50 and then get most of your money back selling the black ones to someone who hates their red or chrome hooks. I have a line out the door for my black ones. Unfortunately I have to somehow reach in there and cut the bolt on the drivers side because a shroud blocks it from coming out far enough, so I’m kinda dragging my feet...

The guy I talked to on FB said you can turn the bass down on the head unit and then all of the bass comes from the sub. I am wondering where it gets it’s signal from but GM doesn’t have the instructions available to email me. If it just taps the rear speaker wires like the last one, I would think turning the bass down at the head unit would also turn the sub down?

Well, I’ve yet to meet an audiophile that’s been happy with any factory system save for some of the high end luxury cars. And definitely never a Bose. I don’t consider myself in that class. I have a few Wave radios around the house, and I love them for what they are. All I can say is I completely agree about the non-Bose being terrible, especially in the T1. I think with either system, the Kicker would do a lot to improve things for the average person who doesn’t want a full gut-job. Taking some of the low end off of the door speakers should in theory clean up the sound a bit. That would be my hope for it, and so far that’s what I’ve been hearing.