OnTheReel

If you’re just streaming through your phone, you can do that through the phone’s data plan without need for the truck to be connected. That is what I do. You could also use your phone as a WiFi hot spot to connect the truck’s embedded apps and totally eliminate the need for the GM data plan altogether. Personally I have the minimum data plan through GM just to do software updates and check the weather app on the truck. If I were to do any type of music streaming directly through the truck I would max that plan out instantly.

Here’s a theory that may make sense. Since it appears that there is only a sensor in one pad up front, let’s take the cost cutting further and ask what if there is NO sensor for the rear pads, and it’s just calculated by how much the front is worn? Perhaps they figure the front wears out 2x faster or whatever the equation would be... This would explain the entire reason to even have a manual reset. If you just change front pads then, the truck will continue to calculate the rear pad wear at the predetermined ratio. Same if you only change the rear pads. If it was 100% sensor driven as the owner’s manual would lead you to believe, there should be no need to even have a reset option. If my BS speculation is true, you have only ONE sensor that is throwing the whole system off which seems more likely. If the front pads “appear” to be wearing faster than they are, due to an errant reading, then the rear percentage would also drop faster to match based on the system’s calculation. Just a thought.

I only know that there is actually a sensor. What the truck does with that info is another thing completely. Brake pad wear sensors are referenced both in the owner’s manual and a few times in the install manual for the performance brakes. https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/parts/documents/ISheets_23505029.pdf “The brake pad life system must be turned off. This is necessary because the Performance Brake Package is equipped with brake pads without electronic wear sensors. When the system is turned off, the front and rear brake pad life percentages will not display. However, the built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn can still determine when the pads should be replaced.”

Sensors are in the pads, it’s not like the oil life or air filter monitor where it’s just computer calculated. There is an option to “reset” the system but it’s supposed to auto-detect the new pads and prompt the reset itself. Seems like there’s two camps, people that have an accurate pad monitor and people that don’t. I’m thinking in these cases there something is out of calibration in the programming. Because usually both axles are dropping much faster than they should, thus theoretically ruling out a bad set of pads/ sensors unless they are bad on BOTH front and back. Seeing as how common this is becoming I would hope GM is aware. I know the system can be disabled but it would be really annoying if the truck is repeatedly prompting for new brake pads at 10,000 miles and the only solution is turning it off.

I think we tried to pattern what trucks got them in a thread a few months ago and I never made any sense out of it. My 6.2 doesn’t have them. Thought it was because of NHT but then someone else with a non-NHT 6.2 also didn’t have them but another did. I’m fine without because it’s just another thing to malfunction.

Yeah, wonder if you have the shutters. Mine doesn’t and my temp sure as hell doesn’t do that.

Yeah, but I was towing my rolling brick of a utility trailer so it’s not that bad. Doing mostly city driving unloaded during the week, I’m lucky to be over 15. She’s thirsty around town.

You may be right, but I hope not. I remember my W-Body Cutlass Supreme having a setup like that, but for oil pressure. Analog gauges, but only an oil pressure switch. Gauge just sat right in the middle if it had pressure. Just makes you wonder why even bother with the gauge then if an idiot light would do just the same...

My 6.2 never seems to go above 200 no matter what. This was pulling a small trailer today, about 70 degrees outside. Not sure if they have a different T-Stat or what but I found this thread interesting. As I recall my 2016 would have the needle straight up at 210 no matter what.

I think if you did relocate it all the way to the back, the view would be really odd and disorienting. The depth perception is already a bit strange through the camera mirror, I can’t imagine having the camera all the way back by the tailgate.

Actually a feature, not an issue. It’s a part of the trailer anti-theft system. It pulses the trailer lights to check for load. The idea is if someone unhooks your trailer, it’ll notice the lack of current draw and trigger the alarm.

Nope, no tech package on the SLT, no matter what. AT4 or Denali only. One of the reasons there’s an LTZ in my driveway. The SLT used to be a slight notch above the LTZ, but it appears to be the reverse of that in the T1s. Probably because GMC would really love nothing more than to sell just AT4s and Denalis.

Assuming they aren’t lying, I wouldn’t be too worried about 1.5 low in an 8 quart sump.

Hoping they’ll release a TSB on this if they haven’t already. I’m getting paranoid too. Anybody in tight with a dealer that can -leak- some details???

Looks much better. The white trucks without them look terrible.

I don’t own a Custom, but lack of interior storage is the biggest complaint I’ve seen of the Custom trim level. Interior in general is a sore spot, at least in my opinion. Everything is functional...just don’t compare to the Yukon, or even your 2011 in certain aspects, or you’ll be really sad. The LT is much better equipped and the interior trimmings are much nicer feeling and better to look at. I guess if you care more about outside appearances maybe the Custom is better, but otherwise the LT has it beat in my opinion. The LT should also get better mileage with Dynamic Fuel Management and the 8 speed. I’m sure you’d be happy with either, but I would recommend spending some seat time in both to see what’s more important to you.

That thing is CLEAN! Don’t see them like that around here anymore. I think you should just have two Silverados.

The 6.2 has normal style glass pack shaped resonators. At least mine did. Thought only the 5.3 has the mesh...

There IS a sensor on these, it’s not just calculated by driving style. They use resistance wires built into pads that the truck reads. I have heard others saying the system doesn’t seem to be all that accurate so take it with a grain of salt. There is an option to turn the monitor off, beyond just hiding the page, which is necessary if you run aftermarket pads that don’t have the sensors in them.

True. Hopefully they are just stabbing a new long block in it. I’m not the most mechanical person in the world and have done that successfully, so I would trust most GM techs to handle it. The window stuff is a lot about cosmetics in the end, and I don’t trust them to not make a mess of that.

Don’t get me wrong, the whole situation is awful, but I’d almost say that’s a good thing. I feel like I’d never trust my engine again after running without oil. You never know how long it would take for problems to appear.

Awesome, I’d like to see some drive by footage of that...

Yup. They have a 5% off promo code at the bottom on the site too. Shipping is the only wild card. It was very reasonable for me but if you’re far away it may wind up costing more than ordering at the dealer and having it sent to them.

Internet must be back up and running at the retirement castle, took you awhile. Rational thought is running what’s in the owner’s manual, unless you’re going to warranty his engine after using something outside of recommended. Keyboard engineering is saying another weight “should be fine” “should be better” etc with no evidence to back it up. The OP asked about shearing and fuel dilution, so we both can agree that engine longevity is the reason he asked, you’re just being pig-headed. What other reason does anyone ask about engine oil? What other purpose does oil serve? And what evidence do you have that running any other oil is better for the engine long term? Nothing I said in my first post was controversial. I suggested differing to the engineers and the owners manual. But you picked it out and called me up personally, again, so surely you did ask for my opinion Grumpy. Also, just some rational thought...does the 2019 Camaro have start/stop? If not, that’s one huge thing that will differ internally and therefore with the oil requirements. As I’m sure rational thinkers like Grumpy know, the bearings on start/stop motors are coated / treated differently. Tolerances may or may not be different. Just because the engine is the same displacement doesn’t mean any of the internals even have the same PN, let alone oil requirements. So in this case, what’s rational Grumpy? Assuming everything is the same between the engines and running 0w40? Or using what’s in the damned owner’s manual rather than thinking you know better!

I’m not exactly sure what you’re arguing for, or against, but in all of that post, you’ve yet to show me any indication that running 5w30 or anything else outside of recommended will give a longer engine life. This was the root of the OP’s question and you’ve got nothing. Further, your refusal to acknowledge that the oiling system is more complex than ever is just being foolish. These have a two stage oil pump, VVT and more AFM lifters than ever to run the DFM program. All of these things are based off of, and calibrated to the hydraulic properties of the recommended oil (at ALL temps). You are also now dealing with Start/Stop on these engines. Dexos gen 2 was formulated with all of these factors in mind so why run anything else? I’ll take their engineers over your speculation any day.