NaClCrocodile

I'll try and give you some help as best I can since I was in the same boat with the Rigid/Morimoto matching. 1. I don't know exactly what temp the Rigid SAEs are, but I can tell you they're a little more blue than my 5000K 35w Morimoto HIDs (I'm also using the Mini D2S 4.0 retrofit but that shouldn't affect color, just dispersion). From what I understand, the 55w ballasts burn hotter, so they wash out colors by ~1000K, so if you were really obsessive about having the fogs match the lows, that might be your best bet. Keep in mind, if you have the LEDs in the headlights (like my 2014 Sierra), a bluer bulb may not sync up with those which would probably look worse than not exactly matching with your fogs. I tried to get some pictures with my camera, but the humidity is ~100% right now so it'll have to wait. 2. I haven't heard great things about LEDs being able to get the distance that HIDs get. I may be totally off base here, but I thought I read that somewhere. Since the Sierra only has one headlight (thank god), I didn't have to worry about matching those, but I would go with whatever you use in the lows, since they're in the same housing. It's easier to cheat when the lights are in different housings IMO. 3. Again, I can't comment on the Morimoto LEDs, but the D2S 4.0 high beam is like turning the sun on, especially when there are trees hanging over/next to the road. Really fun stuff haha. 4 & 5. I can't speak to reliability since I've only had mine a few months, but I know buying from the retrofit source was a blessing. I called them first to lay out exactly what I wanted to do (they don't have a package for the D2S projector retrofit, which requires different bulb connections etc.) and made sure I was ordering the right stuff. It all came in, and one of the ballasts was bad, and the anti-flicker was bad. I let them know what was going on and they immediately sent me new parts. So, if you're really concerned, it's probably a good idea to have an extra bulb and an extra ballast in the glove box so you can fix it on the spot should the need arise. 6. Again, can't speak to the LED stuff, but it's really not as complicated as it seems at first, especially if you aren't replacing the projectors. Hope this helps. I'll try to get some pictures of the lighting difference tomorrow.

Nice. For the Chevys, do the projectors serve as lows and the highs stay standard or do they both come on with the highs and the cutoff just drops away in the projector? If money was no opject I guess they could both be swapped with projectors but it seems like overkill now that I've seen what one set of retrofit projectors will do haha

I'd probably just give them a call on principle since you already paid for the capacitor and aren't getting the benefit of using it... and since it's really easy to drop in when they send you a new one. The headlights look sweet though. I've been thinking about getting switchbacks from Diode Dynamics to replace the stock LED boards now since my headlights make my LEDs look yellow. Did you do a full projector retrofit or just the bulbs? I catch myself staring at the cutoff line whenever I pull up to the house haha.

Yeah, the new ballast and capacitor TRS sent worked (mostly) like a charm. Every few starts my driver side will flicker for a second or two before going to full capacity but this doesn't really bother me so I haven't messed with it too much (I know I should before it really causes problems). I'm not 100% sure about your setup, but I know when I set mine up without the capacitor, there was a buzzing noise coming from the ballasts. This is an indication that your ballasts are firing on/off rapidly, which will cause some serious longevity issues. If you ordered from TRS, just give them a call/email and they'll get you straightened out. If not, try reversing the polarity on your capacitor before ordering a new one (if this experience taught me anything, it's that red does not necessarily mean positive and black does not necessarily mean negative haha).

Just did it in my '14 Sierra All Terrain. Now I've got the distance with Morimoto D2S 4.0 retrofit projectors and my sides with Rigid fogs. Safe to say, nightfall can't get here soon enough! If anyone needs some diodes, I've got eight left. All I ask is that you pass the extras along when you're done.

I actually got the same info from TRS yesterday - apparently the pictures just haven't been updated on their website. Before calling them I did switch the OEM plug around to check if it was the polarity and no change, so hopefully it was just a faulty capacitor. Also when I went to adjust the lights on Saturday night, the driver's side bulb went out. This was after around 1-2 minutes of total run time, so I figured it was either a faulty ballast or ignitor. I switched the ballasts around first and the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on but the driver's side did, so I'm pretty sure it was the ballast. I called TRS and they are shipping me a new capacitor and ballast at no charge. I'm hoping to have everything switched out by Thursday but so far TRS's customer service has been top notch!

So I just finished installing my new Mini D2S 4.0 from TRS/Fastheadlights and wanted to note a few things for those thinking about making the switch. First, I want to +1 the guide on Fastheadlights website - that thing is great and tells you exactly how to put it all together, especially if you order the kit directly from them. I, however, saw an opportunity to save ~$20 by ordering everything (except the mounting brackets) from TRS. The only difference that I can tell from the TRS D2S 4.0 Projector + HID kit and the Fastheadlights kit is that the TRS kit uses D2S bulbs/ignitors and the Fastheadlights kit uses D2H bulbs/ignitors. I don't plan on upgrading the bulbs for a long time, however it does seem that the D2S bulb is more popular and has some more options if/when I do decide to switch. The trade-off is that the D2S bulb/ignitor is pretty bulky and I was worried that it would be tight inside the housing, however there seems to be plenty of room now that it's all installed. The only trouble I've had is that I think TRS sent me the wrong Morimoto Anti-flicker Capacitor. The one on their website shows an OEM input, a output to relay harness input, the capacitor and then a ground. The capacitor that I received looks like this (please ignore the ox-gard): When I plug the OEM input into this, then plug this into the relay, the lights simply don't turn on. When I remove this and plug the relay harness directly into the OEM output, they turn on, but there is a buzzing/humming noise from the harness. I'm assuming this is simply the wrong capacitor, but if I'm missing something, I'm open to suggestions. Also, I made sure to switch the inputs around in case the polarity was wrong and it still didn't fire up. I'll be calling TRS on Monday to see if we can clear up the problem and I'll post an update. The only other thing I would note is that if you do order from TRS, you'll want about 6-12" of spare wire so that you can extend the OEM harness outside of the housing. You have to cut the OEM output wires anyway in order to feed them through the grommet so that you can connect the relay harness/capacitor to the OEM output. I'll take some pics when I get it opened back up to figure out this capacitor problem. Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome. I've never been afraid of getting my hands dirty, but I'm by no means experienced under the hood and I think the hardest part was probably cutting the headlight housing, and that was because I was using a razor knife rather than a Dremel. Now that they're all siliconed back in place, the cut line is hardly noticeable, which is exactly what I was hoping for by using a razor. Hope this helps anyone on the fence.