dna9656

It's huge, it's painted black, leather inside, quiet and smooth (like old men like their trucks and other things) and 4 doors. It has some issues like all used vehicles have. I got the Displacement code, P3200(?) This engine has variable displacement? I got both cat codes, 420 and 430, I have a hood open code, the temp gauge used to work it doesn't now; I got a code for that too. I got a code for the lic. plate light and a code for the front camera. How do I make the front camera work and what's it for anyway? Is it like a dash cam? I think I have other codes, minor ones, the tranny has no codes. I will have to go back out to the truck and run all the tests with a clipboard and pen in hand. When I got it home there was no CEL, the next day the CEL came on of course. The selling dealer says he'll fix the codes, well I'm leery of that, I want no spark plug extenders used on the O2 sensors, that's no FIX. After running around all day with my so the CEL comes on. WE get home and we look up the P0420 and P0430 codes. First things first, we check the oil and find it WAY over serviced; like the oil is 3 inches above full mark! Dr. Google says that might set off the Displacement code as well as the Catalytic Converter (CAT) codes. Drain that oil out and put in 8 qts. of 0W20 for high mileage engines. Filled the filter with oil too, before spinning it on tight. This morning the oil level is dead ?uts on full. Reset the oil sensor; yeah I know a lot of guys think it's bogus but until you know YOUR truck you follow the manual. Well, the Displacement code has not reset so far. Mr. Trainer (on Youtube) says the cats could be poisoned by the over serviced oil condition. He says it may be remedied by using a fuel additive designed to remove the deposits the oil leaves in the cats, I got some and Wal Mart, (a good place for some stuff, like oils and additives, way less $ than buying "mechanic in a can" at the auto parts stores. Seafoam is totally a miracle for fuel issues on carbs or injection units, and WM is the place I usually get it. This truck has the 6 speed automatic, I assume that's the automatic everyone gets. The tranny controller has no codes, It feels like it "hunts" for the right gear at lower speeds (when on the freeway and the freeway is a moving parking lot) it is disconcerting. I can feel it downshift too, the down shift isn't like a TH 350 with a shift kit in it; it's much gentler. I plan on changing the Xfer case fluid and tranny fluid and filter this week The temp gauge, the gauge checks out fine was working just fine till this AM; I drove about a 1/2 mile down to the cross road (I live in a rural area) and I could feel warmth coming out of the vents! That's a FAST warm up! I drove about 5 miles and I turn around, shut it off, turn it ON and pull and clear codes, Start it up and the temp gauge sets on zero, all the way to WMART and back home it doesn't budge, the fans continue to run after engine shut down, the Truck sets for a a good while (the fans stopped at some point) I start it up and the fans come on right away!, I drove over to my shop (a detached garage about 140 feet away) and shut it off to unload some stuff and the fans continue to run, they stopped I believe, I was there about 15 minutes, less. They continued to run after driving the same distance back over to the drive in front of the house. Is this normal? I think the temp sending unit or it's circuit is the trouble. Is there anything I should know about that before I start the tranny and Xfer case fluid changes? Do we still use the Dextron 6 from AC Delco or is there a 7 or 8 now?. Does anyone know where I can buy a owner's manual in book form? Downloading one would be ok, it's just big. If you have a site for that I'll take it! So, anything you good folks can share with me would be much appreciated!

The plugs are AC Delco (the sexy, expensive ones, iridium or some such) I believe. We are agreed Non-GM ignition, emission, and fuel parts don't agree with GM products. The truck was once mine, my son is taking charge of the maintenance and I'm getting him prepared to use this forum (and others) for solid advice on issues. I changed the "O" ring , oil pick up tube, timing chain and sprockets 3 years ago (maybe) and the ticking (rocker arms) went away and while I was in there I replaced all the rocker arms with quality units in case any needle bearings had come out of the arms; I think I read someplace that was sometimes happening. At the same time the oil pump was replaced with a Mellings Hi Volume oil pump, the engine now produces a wonderful 40 PSI at idle, fully warmed up. The fuel computer in the dash was informing me that while on the freeway, at 60 MPH, we were getting 20 MPG; I good increase over the 14 to 16 previously. I also replaced a coil or 2 and may still have a 3rd on hand. It has slotted and drilled rotors all the way around, a new cat back, shocks, tires and the front suspension rebuilt. I installed a new fuel pump, a oil pressure sending unit (it's on it's 2nd one, it's GM too. I changed out the axle lubes, the outer rear axle bearings, added new shocks too,plus a new set of tires at Costco. There is a very good and reasonable upholstery shop in Texas that made a a bottom seat cover for it that matched perfectly. the original had "been the route" and I replaced it. THAT took a lot of strength! It has a new water pump and power steering pump, A POS after-market radio that was poorly installed. The A/C needs work, it has a leak somewhere. I have a set of seals I hope to install this summer, then take it to a shop to get charged. I have a new driver's seat belt to install, it is safe but returns very slowly.

Most "better" plugs come pre gapped, you're not to touch the business end of the plug, skin oils contaminate it. You can call any auto parts store and get the gap, and GM dealer will give the gap, you could check the application charts for the spark plug and get the gap, you could check the sticker under the hood, they used to give the gap. You could buy a Haynes, you'll find the gap in there. You could check the Internet for the gap.

People put clutch disks in backwards, they re-use throw-out bearings, and pressure plates all the time. Forgetting to bolt the converter to the flex plate.... I bet that happens all the time too.

I'm considering buying a used Canyon/Colorado, 12015 and up. I do not want a diesel, I would like a V-6 or the in-line 5. I don't know how the the 4 cylinder performs either. Any help/advice would be welcome! Please educate me! TIA!

Where can they be found?

GMPartsCenter.net | GM Parts Center Compare your P/N to a nw(er) bed P/N. Also there are plenty of bone yards on line than could be of help too and you can call any GM dealer for the P/Ns too.

Replace the plastic bushings in the transmission arms while you're in there. You'll thank yourself for the trouble.

GM Parts Direct: GMPartsDirect.com GM Parts Online: wholesalegmpartsonline.com GMPartsCenter.net | GM Parts Center You can call any GM dealer as well.

Because it was different when you operated the tranny shifter I'm thinking your tranny is where your problem is. True the G90? Rear axle has issues from time to time but Spicer has been building rear axles for a long time and they are not accursed with computer controlled sensors (except anti skid and that's on the axles proper) and other such mandated crap. Do you use the transfer case often/a lot? If not it's prolly ok. I suspect the tranny, the 4L60 E can have a lot of problems, problems that are fixed with a rebuild, I got mine upgraded to a 4L 70E, more clutches other stuff. It's the tranny used in the Caddies and the SS cars.

Check out https://www.merchant-automotive.com/ for your parts.

You could install a centipedal fan, it flattens out (move very little air) when moving, the supposition is there is enough air moving through the underhood area to provide enough cooling. Lots of guys have used this, I have too.

Probably find it in a Haynes of on the Internet; do an Internet search.

Is there gas in the tank?

Water intrusion into ignition system, possible coils have water inside, plug connections lost integrity, cam/crankshaft position sensor intermittent, water logged...? I'm just guessing here...

I noticed the belt doesn't move while the noise is going on, so the starter isn't staying engaged, maybe a solenoid issue?

I miss my '71 C-10. It had wire-in-sleeve to move the HVAC doors, the levers on the control were subject to breaking when the Sleeves weren't oiled.

There is usually a drain plug on a radiator, that does not mean it's going to drain a certain way, that's why you have a 2' square drain pan. The block (for sure) is going to drain and the radiator will too but not completely. You probably have a 20 qt (approx) system, you can look that up under capacities. I'd go get a Haynes Manual for your truck and follow their instructions.

I would call/visit the local GM dealer with VIN and a picture of your Service Parts Identification (in your glove box or similar location) and ask them for the correct part number. You can search an on-line GM parts website by VIN as well.

BEFORE YOU GO THROUGH ALL OF THAT. Where is it leaking? Investigate while the engine is fully warm and running. AFTER IT COOLS DOWN (don't work on a hot engine; you won't like it) If it's leaking at the worm gear hose clamp, try tightening the clamp FIRST. Start it up, warm it up and check for leaks. If that fails, (after letting it cool down again) get a storage bin at Wal-Mart a shallow one, about 4 to 6 inches deep X 16" X 20" or so. Put the open bin under the truck below the leaking hose, this is to catch the antifreeze that will flow. Loosen the the clamp ALOT, pull it back onto the hose, pull the hose off, this might be tough, hoses stick. Apply some motor oil, petroleum jelly, grease, any ONE will work, do not apply all 3 just ONE; to the nipple where the hose was, this will make dealing with the hose easier the next time you have to do this. With a SHARP utility knife cut off 1 or 2 inches of the hose; reinstall the hose, the clamp and tighten the clamp, I pour the antifreeze through some cheese cloth to filter it if needed, or you can pour in new stuff. Start it up, warm it up and check for leaks. If it still leaks I guess you're buying that hose. You can take the hose off and take it with you to the auto parts store. With the make, model, and year plus the hose you should get a match. You'll need the drain bin, the hose will be full of coolant too unless it leaks out of course. You may have to buy some coolant. Most folks can't wait the week or so for the part, so you may end up at the autoparts store. You can call any GM dealer and with the VIN they can give you the OEM P/N and any auto parts store can use it to get you the right hose.

So the truck could be drunk..... is that what you guys are saying?

Good Job!

Guess you better go to a auto parts store that will rent to power steering pressure test kit to you (or go to Harbor Freight and buy one), read the factory instructions on how to bleed the system, and then check for pressure.

We are all going by exp. here and that's good but what no one is doing is reading a manual, get a Haynes or ck a youtube, something that's accd. to GM, DO THAT and see what results you get.

Vacuum leaks or control head issues.