GN2018

Is there really any difference in driving in 2WD versus Auto as long as I’m driving on dry pavement? I’ve always driven in Auto mode, but to be honest, I don’t really understand what it does. I understand the other modes. Reason I’m asking about Auto, beyond just understanding it, is that I’m wondering if I’ll get better gas mileage in 2WD versus Auto - again, on dry pavement. Thanks.

Couple questions for those who have covers. I have leather seats and appreciate the ability to slide into my seat rather easy (as opposed to cloth seats). Do any seat covers come close to having that ability? I don’t want to adjust myself or the seat covers every time I get in the truck. Also, one thing I can’t stand with cloth seats is getting a static shock when I get out of the truck. Do any of you notice this with the seat covers? I do like the idea of the CalTrend as they are made in the USA.

Actually, I like it a lot. I drove for a ten hour trip and probably only had my foot on the gas for a couple hours, if that. It made the trip a lot less stressful. I’ve driven the trip many times and I’m sure I could feel the difference using the adaptive cruise control.

Typical update. Since updating I’ve had two instances where Apple Play doesn’t work correctly. Had to use my phone to get Waze to work. After putting in a location, it has locked up. Needed to use phone to get out of Waze and back in to get it to work. Ugh.

Figured out the update and went ahead and installed it. Now I have version V155.3.8.

I have no idea how to verify my version. The build date of my Sierra is 3/1/2021.

I got a message today on my info screen that the truck has an update. I’ve never had this before. Is this common? Are there any pitfalls I need to be aware of? I’m just thinking how often updating my phone or computer causes problems that I really don’t want to deal with. I really don’t want to deal with it with my main mode of transportation.

As a few others have said, nice, but nothing that would make me want to trade my 21 in for and nothing that makes me wish I would have waited. Also, the shifter looks cool, but as far as I can see, it took the place of the driver’s cup holder. Not worth it.

Got my faraday pouches today from Amazon. Maybe not even worth the $15 I spent for two pouches, but at least it’s one less opportunity for an easy grab. May look into a kill switch if I can find someone that knows what they’re doing. I’d be a little worried about it voiding my warranty. But I think a kill switch is more likely to stop the average thief. I did put my remote in the pouch and tested it. I could not unlock my doors with the fob in the pouch.

Just ordered a faraday bag to store my fobs in at night. Read a couple articles and it makes me feel like I should have the fob in a bag all the time when I’m not actually driving the truck. Of course that would take away from the convenience of keyless operation. Ugh. Still, I’ll at least make sure they’re stored at night. I’m sure my situation is pretty common where the extra fob is stored near the door, either hanging on the key rack or, like mine, in a drawer in a table right near my door which is also close to my truck.

So it sounds like one of the main ways they steal these things is buy replicating the fob. I had no idea it was that easy. Interesting - thanks. I’ll lock down the fobs for sure and will look into some of the other suggestions.

As Clint Eastwood cool as that sounds, there’s no way I’m going to confront a car thief. The potential that these people have no regard for life, not even their own, is too high to risk anything like that. FWIW, I draw the line at my door. Anything outside just has to be accepted though deterrents that make sense are certainly in play.

I like the idea of getting an RF bag to keep my key fobs in.

I have to park my truck outside of my garage. I keep my truck locked and I keep nothing of value in my truck to give anyone any incentive to break into it. I have wheel locks which I think are pretty much useless but they came with the truck. We've been having a string of vehicle thefts around me and I'm getting a bit more concerned that the entire truck may be gone some day. In the past, I looked at this as an insurance problem, but with such a limited supply of trucks out there, I'm worried that I may not even be able to replace my truck if it were to be stolen. So, what are some good things to do to at least make it more difficult to steal my truck? Along the same lines, any idea how they steal a truck with push button start? I had one car stolen and they basically stuck a screwdriver in the key on the counsel and turned it. Not too difficult. But that was ages ago. With key fobs and push button start, how do they steal these things. Note, I don't want an instruction manual on how to steal a truck, but some insight on how it is done may help structure a plan to detour a would be thief. For example, there was a story on the news about Challengers being stolen and the thief's were somehow creating a fob and just going to start the car and drive off. Seems to me that they'd need the VIN to do that. So, maybe I should cover my VIN? Bottom line - what can be done if it must be kept outside. I am able to keep mine near my garage door, off the street and in view of my security camera and motion detecting lights.

Thank you. I just pushed it. I’ll hold it and see how that works.

Is there any way to keep the accessory switch from shutting off every 10 minutes? I’m in my truck waiting on DW and would like the radio to just stay on.

I would try again. Maybe you typed in the wrong email address. I got mine the same day. [email protected]

Did you try manually releasing the brake? See instructions from manual.

It should have a 455 engine in it. Old school big block.

What!? Who classified it as a manufacturer defect versus a failure of the original seal? You need to challenge that big time. Is your extended warranty through GM? Even if not, definitions matter and I seriously doubt the GM would accept that this is a manufacturing defect. Now, maybe we’d all agree it’s a defect, but that’s irrelevant. For purposes of your discussion with the extended warranty company, it’s a failure of the seal. This can be demonstrated by the repair bulletin. How would that be any different than if the valve cover gasket (seal) failed?

I don’t see the problem. If the other dealer wants it, they can front the money to you to buy the lease out and then you turn it over to them as part of your next transaction. I guess there could be tax consequences but if not, there should be no problem. If there are tax consequences, there may be some way around it by acting as an agent for the non-GM entity that wants the vehicle.

Thanks. Did this and got my build sheet in about an hour. No muss to fuss.

Tried it and it does indeed work. It’s not quite as smooth as using the wheel but it allows me to not be on the music menu on my dash. Thanks!

Right, but those with push button start hardly ever touch their fob. I pretty much leave it in my pocket. It would be nice if it worked by putting it in and out of park as was mentioned.

I guess our expectations are very different. Even if I was driving enough to drive a million miles, I would not want to have the same vehicle. I’m good with 200K to 300K. Frankly, at that point the rest of the vehicle is pretty used up. There’s not much you can do to extend the life of a seat. Of course you can basically repair/rebuild things indefinitely, but that’s not something I’d like to do. As for getting to the next product cycle, that has a lot to do with improvements and new features that people want. I drove a lot of cars while working. Leased for two years and 50K miles. Usually had to turn them in early because I used up the miles. From rear cameras, to blind spot indicators, phone connectivity, air bags, you name it, I wouldn’t want the first LaCrosse I drove even if it was in perfect mechanical condition. I can’t see wanting my truck that long either. Hell, I’m 60. If I keep each car/truck for 6 years, I’ll be lucky to to have 5 more vehicles in my driving lifetime. More likely it will be 2 to 3 cars left in my life given the very low amount of miles I’m now driving. I use 6 years because my current plan is to keep my truck until just before my extended warranty runs out which is 6yr/100K miles. I may keep it longer, but my logic is that I’ll likely get rid of it because I have a problem (rear window leak), or the technology will change (electric vehicles) or my needs will change (I hardly can justify a truck now beyond driving it because it’s so frickin’ cool to drive a big, bad ass, good looking vehicle that my 2021 Denali is). Appreciate your prospective, but if my skirting the break in rules changed my engine life from say 500K down to say 200K, I guess I’m good with that.