CamGTP

Sounds like a normal working cooling system to me. Seeing anywhere from 210 to 225 degrees is pretty much normal on a the EcoTech3 engines, be it a 4.3 or V8 model. It's much more noticeable in the summer time. The only thing that comes to mind that could be a problem is a poor flowing radiator but that seems unlikely. Your other option is buy a cooler thermostat if it bugs you that much.

Drive like you stole it, that's how you break stuff in. The local construction company by my house gets new trucks in all the time, they will have 20 miles on them and it's hooked up to a gooseneck trailer on the heavy dutys or a normal trailer for the half tons. Then 200k miles later it's getting replaced, needless to say they don't break anything in with a feather foot. AFM /DFM working like it should. As said above you can buy something to disable the DFM or run it in L9 all the time. I honestly wouldn't even worry about it. Lifters and other crap can still fail even if it's disabled.

And yours is a single cab short bed, that is why. The starting price between a RCSB and a CCSB is $10,000+ at a minimum.

I have one in my drivers side bed too. I think a good PDR guy could get them out.

Maybe I'm just glad I might get a shot at social security, if all them old birds keep dropping it may just happen.

The max towing weight for my 2016 crew cab is 9,500lbs and the truck itself is 5,500lbs, so yeah that's a lot to tow. It's not that is can't do it because these trucks would pull 12,000lbs no problem, it's the other things to consider. Like cooling ability, diff gearing and of course trying to stop something that weighs nearly twice as much as the truck does.

The Escalade with 22's is also not a 1 ton truck with dual rear wheels, so it weighs a ton less and has far better ride comfort suspension than your truck, that is why they ride good with 22's. The ride will change with 20's because your sidewall is now shorter. How much you notice or care is to be determined.

I've been tuning these GM vehicles for about 8-9 years now. Getting fuel mileage with a tune alone is very tough and the power gain on a stock engine with stock everything is not that much. We are talking 15-20hp on a good day and that is running 93 octane fuel which costs way more money than 87 pump gas. So there goes the attempt at cost savings. If you could get 1 mpg combined with a tune alone I'd be surprised. The majority of this stuff comes down to how you drive. You will get the best mileage with the proper air pressure in the tires and going 60-65mph on the freeway. As soon as push over 70-75mph your mileage is going to tank on something like this. Expect mid teens for mileage, roughly 15-17 if you are nice to it.

To be honest it sounds normal. My 2016 with 106k miles sounds the same way.

Plug you tire size information into here and you will have the answer to your question. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ People change tire sizes all the time without doing anything to the computer.

You'll need to get a scan tool on this thing to see what is going on. If the goes into a reduced power mode there will be some sort of fault set when it happens.

Well, I mean you are pulling basically the max weight for that truck with the AC on and in 100 degree weather. I'm not sure you can expect a whole lot less when it's kinda the worst case scenario right now. I bet if the temps were 10-15 degrees cooler the temps would be much less. What are your temps with the thermostat mod when not towing 9,500 lbs??

Break out the multimeter and start doing some testing. https://www.ericthecarguy.com/parasitic-draw-testing/

I'd want dyno sheets from a few vehicles to back those claims up. Where is it gaining 40 horsepower and 48 ft lbs? Headers for sure gain power and more so in the upper rpm's but picking up 48 ft lbs under the peak torque range seems a little out in left field.

I believe we have given you enough answer to help you out. There isn't a part number break down on a part like that. It comes with the clips as part of the cable. Go to a parts store to find similar clips or go to a dealership and ask them if they have any. Not sure how we can help you anymore than this.

The virus doesn't exist at giant rallies either, just ask the thousands of people in DC this weekend........ I can get basically obliterated with words and stares if I go into a building without a mask or whatever but if I want to protest on the next band wagon topic, it's all good and nobody will judge or say a word. BECAUSE IT'S THE "MANS" FAULT AND SOMEBODY EXCEPT ME NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT.

It's going to be computer/wiring related then. Let the dealership figure it out on something this new.

He wanted internet compliments on his personal plate, didn't get any. Only waited 6 hours and abandoned the thread.

The frames between those two years are different. Get the correct hitch for your truck.

You can take stock manifolds pretty far in some cases. The CTSV and ZL1 camaro's will do alot more power than stock with factory manifolds. Even back in the day with the Cobra/Terminators, guys kept the stock manifolds because they still make good power. Even most of the turbo LS's run stock manifolds or at least the drivers side is factory with a new cast turbo manifold on the passenger side.

So they are only going to sell parts to a body shop?? How will people that get into accidents get replacement parts if they won't sell anything?

New washer fluid pump today. Pretty stupid design for the washer bottle. You have to remove the wheel well liner, 2nd battery tray and a bracket just to get at the dang pump.

It's a learning curve for sure but worth it if you are willing to spend the time on it.

The pre and post mask requirement for weekly confirmed cases is on avg the exact same here in Minnesota. So as many ask here, how is it doing any good if the numbers don't change?? It must have been less dangerous before the mask mandate or something.

If the exhaust was plugged, you'd have zero power and the cats would be glowing red because it can't get the exhaust out. Seeing that at night would be easy. Or hook a back pressure gauge up into the front o2 sensor port before spending hundreds of dollars on exhaust parts. A free flowing exhaust will have ~1 psi of back pressure.