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About 2019-AT4

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  1. Had a new Fuel Control Module installed by the dealer about 3 weeks ago. So far so good
  2. Have they tried a new fuel control module?
  3. Same exact issue here but I made it to the dealer before the code reset itself this time. They say bad fuel control module. I should have a new one installed in the next week
  4. Mine does the same exact thing. Took it to dealer and they said it was a bad fuel control module, which I guess kind of make sense. When the issue occurs, sometimes the engine will actually start but will shutter off after idling for maybe 1-2 seconds. This is what makes me think it may actually be the fuel control module. Fingers crossed that it fixes the issue because it is a pain in the ass not knowing if my $60k brand new truck is going to start for work. It has happened about once a month since I've owned it.
  5. So I noticed my battery voltage gauge reading below 14V while the truck is running. 2020 Sierra AT4 seems like Half the time it reads below 13V, while running. I have verified the voltage with a multimeter. Running idle I was getting 12.6 volts. I know the alternator should be putting out 14.5 ish. does anyone know if there’s some sort of new feature that prevents the alternator from juicing the battery with full voltage?
  6. Anyone having this issue with a 2020 model? If so, what was your build date?
  7. They’re 35x12.5x20 KO2s. Required some trimming
  8. Here’s 70 on the windshield. I had 50 on my last truck and I felt like that was a little too much. Was hard to see people at night. Not cars but people
  9. I like it. Where’d you get the graphics from?
  10. I put on a set of 285/65/20 KO2s and they fit without any rubbing at all. This was before any level or spacers. They just looked too damn skinny. I don’t think the 295 were even an option at discount tire otherwise I would have tried them. Although I think they would end up being too big and probably look skinny the 285/65/20 and the 35x12.5x20 end up being almost the same exact diameter. The later being significantly wider and beefier looking. honestly I love my setup. .375 bora spacers are good to go as they are hub centric and leave plenty of threads left on the studs. You cannot even tell at all that they are sticking out more than the rear tire.
  11. Forgot I had this picture. With OEM arms the 35x12.5x20 KO2 tires did rub at full lock. This was before the leveling kit.
  12. Thank you! will post closeup pics of trim job tomorrow. I did install the Ready Lift UCA with their 1.75” leveling kit. I also installed the .375” bora spacers, which were definitely needed as the new arms moved the ball joint a tiny bit closer to the tire. I was already cutting it close. no rubbing on the arms at all with this setup. two pics below. One with the OEM arms before the level - without spacers. The next pic will show the distance with the level, new arms and .375” spacer. something to take note of. The OEM UCA ball joint has a sharp edge that points towards the tire, so if the tire made contact, it would not be good. The ready lift ball joint is rounded, so if there was minimal contact for whatever reason, I don’t think it would do much. Hard to tell from the pictures but I had like 1/8” of space with the OEM UCA. I think I Have about .375” of space now. I think I would REALL have to get wild to see any rubbing on the ball joint now. Even if it did rub, it’s round like I mentioned earlier and I couldn’t imagine it hurting the tire.
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