Where a vehicle is made counts much more in the grand scheme of its lifetime more so than who owns the production line. For example, Toyota and Honda both have assembly lines here that are strictly regulated (as much as they can be) towards imitating the production plants in their homeland. Their existence here creates numerous employment opportunities as well as giving back to their local states/counties and the nation in the form of tax revenue from production to sales. This is also due to the fact that they are also sold as fleet vehicles and cannot fit that requirement without being assembled domestically, so they have been doing this waay since the 80s for some better known models across the board. This negates the argument for the idea of "foreign vs. domestic" since it becomes more semantics in this sense and exposes the real root of the reliability problem which is not just brand or engineering, but rather WHO assembled the cars i.e. UAW. The real difference is when you actually see a live production line, you take a look at the workers who are in charge of assembling your vehicle every step of the way - this also includes robotics. I have been lucky enough to visit the Lexus assembly plant in Tahara, as well as the one in Georgetown, KY for their maiden production of the ES. You will not believe how much difference there is in the quality of work. In Japan, each assembly worker is a specialist, and for items requiring intricate detail such as body fitment, panel gaps, alignment and such - right down to sticker/label placement - they use women. Each one is highly trained, much of the time blindfolded and taken through years of sensory training that results in not only patience, but a high level of attention to detail that is unmatched within domestic assembly. They can not only identify panel misalignment by sight, but also in some cases measure the gaps by feel right down to the millimeter. This goes right down the assembly line with very strict tolerances for paint, welding, laser alignment and cutting, fasteners, you name it. Every one is an expert at all jobs and can fill in should someone be missing without much of a capability gap. Every third engine is tested for tolerances and operation, and in the case of special models ("F" series cars) every single one is tested. Now compared to the tolerances within our domestic plants, and the general attitude and practices of UAW workers, along with testing of every 50 or more engines, you can see why we have issues with domestically assembled vehicles. If you ever noticed, your control boxes are labeled with colors instead of connector labels such as T15 etc. It is so lazy and dumbed down, it gives you an idea who is at the line. I even have come across many new vehicles I had out for fleet delivery that were not connected properly when new. The attention to detail remains in what we consider premium brands such as Audi/Porsche/BMW/Mercedes, with their weakness being low lifespan due to heavy use of new materials/eco friendly composites. In all the sum of their production from engineering to parts sourcing to assembly is what determines the overall vehicle lifespan, and how well it was or wasn't assembled correctly bears the heaviest weight in that equation.
Anyone know what exactly the fix is besides bringing it to the dealer? Dealer says they can't do anything more after replacing the module, wiring, and rear camera. I'd rather have an aftermarket system that actually works and is easy to replace than this thing which gives me the same blinding blue screen that I can't turn off at night. Truck is a 2017 SLE.
If these are the same 8 speeds on the Canyons, I've seen the opposite around here. No one here gets to drive above 45 and all short trips so that doesn't help either. They're also a complete B**** to work on the other trucks.
If the parking light and signal light is the same bulb, it's likely a dual-filament where the lower wattage (parking) portion is burnt out. Switch the bulb from the other side to verify if the other side works as normal. If the symptom is gone, replace the bulb, if not, it's something else along the control unit/switch/wiring side. On another note, I had a problem with my signal light intermittently working, bulb was good. Turns out it was overtightened, loosened it 1/4 turn and all is normal so check that contacts are where they should be.
Out of nowhere, exhaust rattle that sounds like loud marbles in a can happens today after sitting all night. Never happened before and nothing out of the ordinary regarding commute. Anyone have any ideas what it is? System checks out tight and mounts are good. Happens only at the rear. Don't know how to link video so upload is here (make sure to click on speaker at lower right of video to enable sound): https://imgur.com/a/ZGdRTWP
This is such a pain, I've had 2 Toyotas, both which had the frames replaced for free while out of warranty. Are these frames even available separately or do I just toss the truck when the time comes? From another former LS owner, these things seem like a catastrophe considering the truck is still in warranty and I've got frame rust, on my 2nd rear cam repair, transmission/powertrain issues etc. It's hard to accept then I read what the 8-speed Canyon folks are going through..
Yeah I figured I’d finally ask around to see if this was a common thing because I couldn’t find similar cases for this particular set while searching or any correlation through my driving experience. Truck tracks straight and smooth just like when I bought it. Basically I just wanted to see if this is about the time/range these tires tend to fall apart. The only other tire that I can remember having problems with were Federal Couragia but those were a different kind of mess. Thanks for all the input gents.
No caustics, no rocky areas, alignment is at factory settings. White dust is from neighbor’s construction that settles on my driveway. Damage is similar at all four tires which has me stumped. I have several trucks with all different kinds of tires throughout the years and have never seen this happen, especially since this one doesn’t see the offroad or jobsite duty my other ones go through.
Yep, I've seen too many scenarios up from the floor level up from a dealership perspective. You'd be surprised at some of the financial risks some of these unprepared buyers make just to get that new car feeling.
Don't, you only (kind of) do this to an out-of warranty vehicle with a looming repair exceeding it's actual value. Keep the truck, sell privately as some others mentioned, or wait a while because dealers will continue to starve as they get desperate to unload inventory. Yes, big dealerships have a set formula exactly for this. Thing is, KBB means nothing as fair market value is determined on a different scale, and any "real" value purchasing opportunity is based on local dealership variables that cannot always be predicted.
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