L8T

+47 I believe. 18’s are +44

I got my 295/60r20 on yesterday. All I did was bend the front inner fender bracket towards the front so the inner liner wouldn’t rub and trimmed a bit off my aftermarket mudflap. Gave it 2 turns which lifted it just under 3/4” and no rubbing now. Seems to ride fine still. Bad news is these tires are a bit out of round and shake a bit. Waiting for options from the tire guy.

I’m going to try and squeeze 295/60r20 on 20x10 -18 on my truck Wednesday. Hopefully I don’t need to do too much as I have aftermarket flaps too. I figure a 1” key bump for now and a bit of trimming might do it. I saw a buddies truck the other day that has 305/60r20 on 22x12 -44 and he had to split the factory flap in half and a 1” key bump to make it fit.

What model Magnaflow did you go with? Its offset/offset 3.5" right? Do you tow with your truck? I don't want any drone but would love a little more sound. Magnaflow 12909. 3.5” mufflers that fit are tough to find. I had to add about 5” to the section of pipe where it drops down In front of the diff to line up but it worked out good. Also cut it off behind the last hanger and installed a 60 degree piece to angle the exhaust out the side. Drone isn’t bad and yes I do tow. It sounds like a truck now IMO. If one didn’t like it they could put a twister in it also to quiet it down a touch but I don’t feel it’s necessary.

I’d have to agree. With the current air box setup it moves air quite well. In the classic body style up to the LML there were gains to be had due to limitations in the design of the factory filter housing and piping but with a stock turbo there is no longer a need to change it in the newer models.

Cool story Come back when you learn to read and understand English.

Yet another reason why we need tuning options for these trucks. So we can change ****** like this.

Apparently yourself. Sweet work deleting your old posts by the way. Also If I’m 6hrs from a gm dealer how fn far do you think I am from a competent tire shop? I order online. That’s why I asked the question I did. Pretty simple question and thanks to the two folks that got me the answer I needed.

Deadly. That’s what I was looking for. Thanks!! FYI on my ‘16 Duramax I was the guinea pig for 2 sets of eBay sensors that didn’t work and couldn’t be returned so google can suck it. Closest dealer is 6 hours away. I wasn’t going down that road again.

Was this for one of the newer 2500/3500 trucks we are talking about here? Did they give you a p/n for the sensors on your invoice?

For those that didn’t read the first post I will post it again. I am looking for a brand and p/n for NON-GM TPMS!! Not looking for lessons on tpms or info about factory sensors. Thanks.

My coolant temp is usually 200 or a bit below but I haven’t seen over 60F ambient. That voltage seems normal.

No it doesn’t. A couple flashing lights for a few seconds ain’t gonna confuse anyone. Especially a “professional driver”. Europeans figured this move out decades ago. Sounds like your just trying to over complicate a simple move.

I want to leave them in my stock wheels for winter use.

Anyone got a p/n for non-GM TPMS sensors that will work in these trucks?

I see Wehrli makes a kit. Probably a 3/8” would work for me. Anyone got pics of how big the gap is with the 3/4” kit? edit:I found a couple videos online. Sure is a lot of disassembly to get the braces in.

I just ordered some 20x10 -18 wheels with 295/60R20 rubber and was looking at this kit also but not sure if it will be enough of a lift. Works out to a 34”x11.5” tire so I’m hoping I don’t need to crank and cut too much. I did find a Cognito standard 3” level kit which comes with keys and UCA’s and they are a decent price so might just toss those in and hope for the best.

What is this bumper spacer all about? I have an at4 And just bought some 20x10 wheels and 295/60R20 rubber. Not sure how much lifting and trimming I’m going to have to do yet so am exploring options. One guy says it’s fine, next says it rubs and needs a lift. So really won’t know till I get them on and see.

Can you reprogram any of the modules or is it just a diagnostic tool without reprogramming capabilities? Last time I used AI was 15 years ago and it was diagnostic only back then.

Hasn’t been an issue in the past unless damage was caused by and directly due to a failure from it. Much like cat back exhaust.

I feel you’re on point with your personal assessment. It’s almost as though the new DI control isn’t able to fine tune itself enough at low rpm, higher injection quantity when compared to it’s throttle signal input and is hunting to keep it within the parameters it wants. Could even be emissions related trying to keep it running clean at higher pulse widths so it’s constantly adjusting. If these damn tuning companies like HP or EfiLive would get off there asses and release some tuning capabilities it would be nice to get it on the dyno and log it to see just wtf it’s actually doing. IMO I feel even just changing some of the shift points and making other trans shift changes would go a long ways with driveability. I’m just glad I’m not the only one that has been experiencing this.

Not sure if you’re aware or not but WM does more than just cool the air.

Mines definetly not converter shudder. I’ve felt it before and it’s a fairly quick acting action (multiple times a second). The surge I feel is like once or twice a second-if this makes any sense to others with the complaint. And has an audible rpm change. Is this what y’all are describing also?

Anyone tried running water meth as a power adder/mileage improver on their gasser yet? I ran it years ago on a Duramax but have never tried it on an NA engine. I feel with the higher compression and direct injection intake valve build up issues it might be very beneficial at a 30 to 50% meth mixture.

Anyone heard any news on a programmer or tuning availability coming yet?