SporkLover

What part did you replace? The actuator?

Fit is good and it looks OEM.

I used Ecological Bumper Shellz. They also have a grill cover https://www.ecoological.com/bumpershellz.html

Click bait for views!

Yeah classic differentiate trim strategy...... the good news is that you can get some overlays that look nice and cost way less than the upgrade to the upper trim levels. I just did that in mine last month and am pretty happy with the aesthetics.

I based it off the fact you were using that one experience and the weight difference to base your judgements on and you cited 500lbs. Sure you said you didn't know how much that was attributed to the motor BUT you attributed your entire opinion of it feeling like a heavy pig because of the motor. Egghaus got it right. There is roughly 70lb difference between the V8 and the 4 Banger fully dressed. 6.2L trucks have a heavier transmission, and more standard equipment. Those are not meaningful weight differences. You are happy with your 4 Banger....... and no one is saying you shouldn't be. Is it really necessary for you to justify your liking of it by spouting off statements not based in reality but just based on your own self admitted uninformed opinion on the other solid options? I guess you got us with the lifters. You win? Is that what you are looking for when no one is saying there is anything wrong with your choice....but also noting that there really aren't the problems you think with the others. But if validation is what you are looking for..... I guess you can take the W with the lifters. Or the W with NA ICE losing power at elevation. Hopefully you got the validation you are looking for and don't feel the need to justify your enjoyment of your truck by trying to take down others!

This confirms it. You don't know. That's not an admonishment..... you are smart, enthusiastic and like to spread knowledge. So I'll help you with a few points. You are definitely on point that the 2.7L is a lighter power plant than either the 5.3L or 6.2L. You are wrong about the physical size. Generally speaking GM has been making one size (external dimensions) engine block per each generation of V8 they produce. The exception is back in the day when there were distinctions between "big block" and "small block" engines. The last "big block" engine in a production vehicle was in 2010. In absence of that big block differentiation..... all GM V8's use the generational block design..... and the external dimensions don't change meaningfully....its the internal castings of the blocks that might be different or even materials between the blocks. For the current generation 5.3L and 6.2L they are both aluminum block Gen V V8's. External physical dimensions are the same. Weight differences negligible..The 5.3L should have more block material because of smaller cylinders but the 6.2L should have a slightly heavier crank because of the slightly longer stroke. But at the end of the day it would be negligible and not noticeable. Other things you have to consider weight comparisons are the transmissions and definitely the trim levels. A Custom Silverado vs a AT4 is going to have weight differences that will be attributable to extra features. Plus the AT4 likely had a 10 spd.... no idea if the custom did. The 10 speed is definitely heavier. but based on what you said I dont think you can logically draw 500lbs difference due to the engine being pig heavy. I'd venture to guess most of your observations are seat of the pants feel that is probably very much bias fed....... and that's ok. You are really happy with your truck and you should be. But let's spout facts.

For me it was the low note horn going out. It was $35 for the replacement assembly. The part number for me was 85130075

Glad you are happy with a 2.7T but you come across as talking out of your butt with some of these comments. Why do you think a 6.2L is any physically bigger or heavier than the 5.3L? They are based on similar block and head design with the same external dimensions.

Sauce up front: https://imgur.com/a/71KYMpA For the first 5K miles or so the stock Duratracs on my 21 Trail Boss were nice and quiet. But afterwards they got noisy really fast. I know I know....... you should expect some noise with an aggressive AT tire, and I did but just not that much. A few acquaintances have Trail Grapplers or Ridge Grapplers on various vehicles so I knew that an AT can be quiet. Once the noise approached an annoying enough level it was time to replace them. I decided to go with 285/70/18 Ridge Grapplers which was an overall 34 inch diameter tire. I wanted something that wouldn't require too much trimming and notes from other owners said this was the likely path. So the tires are on the truck and I am impressed. The noise level is definitely back down to where the Duratracs originally were. Hopefully time will show they will stay that way. Some notes of my own to share. For me this did require some trimming of a front mud flap. In reverse on full lock to the right it would have a slight rub on the inside of the mudflap in the wheel well of the passenger side front. I trimmed a small amount to fix this. Driver side didn't require this. I believe the passenger side wouldn't have either but I had some mud build up behind the plastic that pushed it out a bit and it would rub the tire. Pics will show this. 10 Ply tire definitely has a different ride but I would not say it is degraded. I will wait for the temps to calm down before getting the tire pressure right for the best ride (50 degree swing throughout the day right now) Price..... tires this size are pricey. Just be ready for it. Stock sized tires are generally $80+ cheaper per tire. Happy with the results

Excellent question. I was looking for switched power and constant power. My hardwire kit for my camera (Thinkware) goes into Parking Mode when the switched power is killed but the constant power remains. So the constant power was easy. I used F3 (Garage Door Opener), which is a standard fuse. For switched power I used F26 (USB/SEO RAP), which is three pronged. There were other good options for the three pronged fuse, F11, F32, F43, or F17. I went with F26 because it was easiest to get my add a fuse into. I actually like the fact that it is F26.... it is a Retained Power Accessory circuit so it preserves powers for 10 or so minutes before being killed. Here is a link to a helpful thread.

Yeah the TB is a pretty poor value compared to the LTZ. I bought mine back before the shortage and GM was offering big incentives. You could buy one below MSRP and get $5K off from GM. Much better value back then..... now if I want to replace it I gotta spend $8K more than I did when I bought my 21. No thanks.

This is what I am personally using.. It was a tight fit but I can get it in and out with a little bit of work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WL7TRY3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine has both......

Yeah sorry I wasn't suggesting that. Some people are still in the old habit of checking oil pretty frequently like with every fill up. Just thought that one thing could be eliminated if you did.

You will need the mufflers, which is usually the most expensive part, and then some stand alone controller. Given that this be been done for other GM platforms with active exhaust I am going to guess just waiting till one of those owners that likes to experiment to give it a try. Happened with other platforms.

Sorry but this is addressed in the owner's manual. Page 299 for 2023 GMC Sierra. Previous years noted that extended use may result in damage to the engine. I will note that if you use low octane, and damage occurs from predetonation you can be sure they will use that against you for any power train warranty claims. Excessive oil consumption resulting from excessive blowby from the piston rings? Owners fault for using wrong octane and causing damage to pistons from predetonation. Easy to see it too because these are hypereutectic pistons. The likeliness of excessive damage like this is pretty low....but as noted you can be sure they will use it against you.

Here is a silly question. Are you sure the dealership put in the correct amount of oil when doing the oil change? Some assume 6quarts when 8 is needed.

What did the dealer say? I was going to ask if by any chance you are in 4WD or Auto?

Well does your truck love you again?

You will be fine. Your major trailer rental locations wont have trailer brakes but will have surge brakes. Surge brakes work automatically and are more for quick/emergency stops so nothing to learn there. In terms of weight..... trailer will likely be in the 2000lb range. The Trailer will likely have about a 5000lb hauling capacity so if you max it out 7000lbs. Well within the capabilities of your truck. Last summer I towed my car nearly 1000 miles. It weighs about 4000lbs and I towed through the Appalachians. Truck towed like a champ and really barely felt the trailer...the truck never struggled. More brakes would have been nice. Final word of advice...... always assume you need more braking distance.

Pretty common with Android devices in general. I have a Samsung, and use Samsung soundassistant to adjust the latency.

It's really a matter of when they will fail. The lifter design is pretty similar to when the AFM/DOD debuted on trucks in 2007. Eventually one will collapse and lock up. Now the fact that 21 was a really bad year for lifter problems is sort of an abberation and a supplier defect issue. Many people have these trucks for many miles without problems. I wouldn't worry about that too much inside of the powertrain warranty. Even with AFM disabled people have had lifters fail on them. Theoretically it should lower the risk because the lifters aren't being collapsed regularly..... but the lifters can still fail and do. Previous generations trucks with Range devices has shown that. Only way to get rid of the risk 100% is to get a AFM/DFM delete kit.

6.2L! I couldn't let my car have the bigger engine! 2016 SS Sedan

It will certainly reduce the risk as the DFM isn't being activated but the risk is the mechanical parts are still there. Previous generations of AFM had shown disabiling AFM doesn't completely remove the risk. It can still fail. Only thing that can fix it is removing the DFM lifters.