Mawz

No, it’s the lowest setting with this kit.

GM’s been teasing an AT4 Lineup all over social media. I can’t help but think the AT4X will be the top-end and will be largely analogous to the ZR2. Definitely the same electronic bits & lockers, probably the shocks, but maybe a different bumper treatment.

IIRC the Inverter is controlled by the RAP system, so it will turn off before the starter battery is drained. That said, yes Ford is WAY ahead in terms of on-site power. The Pro Power system is a game changer for that and GM & FCA need a similar option. I’m not sure if the T1’s have the secondary battery tray like the K2’s do, but on the K2’s it’s relatively simple to fit a secondary battery, isolator and a large inverter to provide power independent of the starter battery but still charged off the alternator.

New front high-clearance bumper and a different exhaust setup (higher clearance) for improved approach & departure angles, plus a bunch of software bits (crawl control, 1-pedal driving) that seem to be unique to the ZR2 at least for 2022 (IMHO the software changes should be on the Trail Boss, but don’t appear to be yet) I’ve said it upthread, but the ZR2 is a LTZ Trail Boss+, not as radical a change as the S10 or Colorado ZR2’s are. There should be real suspension and track changes and there is not. I do expect it’s going to be $3-5k over an LT Trail Boss, but half that is simply in the fact it’s functionally an LTZ over an LT. Agreed it’s no TRX or Raptor fighter. The ZR2 goes up against a fully optioned Tremor or Off-road package Rebel, and outshines the new Tundra TRD Pro (which is underwhelming compared to the competition). The Trail Boss struggled in those comparisons because it was limited to LT trim max and was missing real lockers, 33’s and some competitive shocks. I do think we’ll see a ZR2 Bison at some point, which will be the TRX/Raptor analog.

Then you likely have an issue with the harness, not the sensors.

Not really impressed to be honest. The front end looks like they copied a child’s toy version of a K2 GMC front end. Huge honking nose on the new Tundra and that grill is 1/2 K2 GMC and 1/2 previous gen Subaru. Yuck. Everything else on the market is MUCH nicer (and I don’t even like the T1 noses much…. But they’re way better than this) The TRD Pro quite frankly underwhelms. No front locker (not even optional), no improved departure angles, just suspension tuning for higher-speed off-road desert running (which few will do) compared to the TRD off-road. I can’t see why anyone would buy it over a ZR2, or frankly a TRD Off-road for that matter. The Hybrid version doesn’t offer anything more than a 400W inverter, which is pathetic given the inverter options on the F150 Hybrid (2Kw or 7.2Kw with the Pro Power package). The bed options look competitive against a GMT900, but no answers to the modern tailgate & bed options. Composite beds are nice (and allow it a little extra leeway in payload), but no power, no steps, no storage, The interior is tonka-toy. Some nice design bits (physical HVAC controls are nice and that screen looks gorgeous), but it looks like it was put together from lego. All hard plastic, tons of projections, that ridiculous centre-console access hatch (which gives access to the cup holder). Also the rear seat is arguably too big. I’ve complained about this elsewhere, the rear seating is getting more space than is needed even to comfortably seat tall people when all of these trucks could stand to lose some length. I’m wondering how much longer than my K2 this Tundra is with that massive nose and extra few inches of cabin behind the drivers position. I thought the previous Tundra was the least attractive of all the full-size options. The new Tundra has definitely taken that crown away from the old one. Oh, and Toyota’s lost every buyer in the ‘V8 or no buy’ crew, which is still a significant market. Their 5.7L V8 was very well regarded and the new one is 3.5TT V6 only. Even Ford kept the 5.0 as an option for the folks who just couldn’t bring themselves to buy a turbo 4 or 6 even when the turbo was a better performing engine.

For the Mustache, if you can find the Midnight Edition part, it’s black. That’s the only package that came with a black one instead of chrome. I don’t know the part number.

Check the rear for anything loose that would cause the clinks, but squeaks could just be the leaf springs themselves (annoying, not necessarily an issue).

IIRC those are USB extensions. They plug into a unit in the dash (IIRC there’s a powered hub there which plugs into the HMI) Could be an issue at that end, also worth checking the fuses to see if one is blown.

IIRC those are USB extensions. They plug into a unit in the dash (IIRC there’s a powered hub there which plugs into the HMI) Could be an issue at that end, also worth checking the fuses to see if one is blown.

Pretty sure there’s nothing different in terms of basic spec between the T1 shocks and the K2 shocks until the new ZR2 becomes available with its DSSV shocks. the OP’s question is likely because they have a some T1 stuff available to them and want to use it. The main issue I’d expect is slightly different tuning because the T1’s tend to be somewhat lighter than the K2’s.

They definitely didn't go all out, but there is more travel, more clearance and more sidewall vs an LT Trail Boss. There just isn't as much as you would have got if they'd fitted a redesigned front suspension like all previous ZR2's got (not counting the Tracker ZR2, which was an insult to the name) Frankly, the Silverado ZR2 is more LTZ Trail Boss+ than ZR2. The changes do not include the geometry and track changes that the S10 ZR2 and Colorado ZR2 both have received. Don't get me wrong, I dig it, I just think GM didn't do enough to justify the ZR2 moniker. I think GM needs to rethink it's offroad package selection. The Trail Boss has never been quite enough change over the stock Z71, particularly in terms of tires and the fact it still comes with a G80. Frankly, about half the ZR2 bits should be on the Trail Boss package (lockers, maybe as optional, all the driving aids on LT+, and the 33's and let folks buy an LTZ Trail Boss) and the ZR2 should have gotten a wider track, 35's (with 4.10 gears) and new front UCA/LCA's with more articulation, then let the inevitable Bison version get a blown 6.2, optional 37's and 4.56 gearing, more lift and maybe bring back some High Desert bits too.

@pgamboa would be the expert on that. Tagging him in.

From all I've read, your harness should be prewired for everything except the 12V power for the camera when in reverse. For the reverse lights, you want to tap the 12V positive to one of the lights (you can also tap the trailer reverse light for this). I'm not sure which one this is, but you should be able to tell quickly with a multimeter.

Check if the camera is getting power when you put it in reverse, it probably isn't. If it doesn't, you can tap the backup lights to power the camera.

And that’s exactly what the OP was trying to achieve with an upgrade.

No, it's a knock sensor warning. Check them.

Oh, as an FYI, even without deceleration fuel cutoff, pushing into N doesn’t save fuel coasting. You would have the engine getting idle throttle either way, which is the same fuel burn. All pushing into N on a downhill does is cost additional brake wear, because you lose a small amount of grade braking from having the wheels drive the engine, so you need to use more brake to maintain speed.

Pay attention to CamGTP, he’s 100% correct. You will actually burn more fuel by dropping it into neutral as deceleration fuel cutoff only works when the vehicle is in Drive or L (as the wheels can’t force the engine to turn in N, so it has to burn to stay on)

The funny thing is that exact image was showing up on the ZR2 I hope it’s selectable. Ideally it would be customizable (ie you can load an image off a USB stick).

To be honest, I'm happy they went with the stock 6.2 in the ZR2. That means it's more likely to be priced well below a TRX or Raptor for those of us who want a better overlanding/trail rig and leaves room for Chevy to do a ZR2 Bison with a blown 6.2 and a redone high-articulation suspension (rather than just REALLY good shocks on the stock TB suspension that is the Silverado ZR2)

Alternatively, put it in drive on the flats and and have some one spot to see what spins. If the driveshaft spins it's the diff and if it doesn't it's the T-case.

TFLTruck said the ZR2 has 1/2” more clearance. I’d bet that’s just the tires given the TB has 32’s (which will fit in a stock Z71) and the ZR2 33’s. The TB is well known to come with smaller tires than actually fit it.

I would have thought the same if she hadn't specifically called out 60% of sales as offroad capable (which is real bad wording, any of these trucks is offroad capable with the right tires, you don't need a Z71 package or Trail Boss trim to offroad, although I'm sure GM wants you to think that) To be honest, I think the paint-matched grill and dual exhausts sells Z71 packages more than anything else. It's the easiest way to get the monochrome grill and dual exhausts, and most folks are buying 4WD anyways.

The Level kits are designed to work with your current shocks. You shouldn't need longer ones and longer ones may lift your rig even more. Cupping can be caused by bad alignment or worn shocks. If yours are done, that's likely the cause. I'd look at replacing with stock-length shocks, be it OEM or a good aftermarket set (Say Bilstein 5100's set to stock height) and get an alignment when you do all the work in case your tire issue is simply a bad alignment after the level was installed. It's new Upper Control Arms that the 2.5" level might require, over 2" is marginal for a level and the stock UCA's (may work fine, may cause issues)