richard wysong

google it. there is at least 1 company that reproduces weatherstripping for restorations

not the alternator. they generate their own current

cold air is denser than hot air thus will create more hp but still needs more fuel to do that. it won't increase fuel economy. stock air cleaner systems draw air from the fender well (colder air than engine bay)

time to start climbing the ladder at the dealer. the phone thing is just an excuse. in Massachusetts they get 3 chances to fix a problem under warrantee and if they fail they have to take the vehicle back and refund your money. Called the lemon law.

factory intake systems ARE cold air intake. Save your money!

how many keys on your key ring? too many may be turning the switch just enough to shut it partially off or you may have a bad ignition switch

I have disabled the abs on every truck I've driven in the winter. it will NOT allow you to stop in the snow. some you can just pull the fuse others unplug the module and others unplug a wheel sensor. Of course every truck had a snow plow on it. If you know how to drive in the slippery stuff its more of a hazard than a safety feature. unfortunatly many ppl hop in a 4wd vehicle and drive too fast to be able to stop so it allows them to steer around what they are about to crash in to but doesn't alow you down as fast as controlled braking will. I haven't had any problem with it in my car which is front wheel drive, v8 but I don't drive like a nut in the crappy weather either

must have been the mechanic fairy paid you a visit

sounds like t case problem more than transmission. how are the fluid levels? does it roll with the trans in neutral or just the tc?

there is probably a fill plug on the trans some where. service manual should tell you how to check the level. dealer doesn't have a magic computer to check the level

possibly sealed unit nonserviceable

some states with inspections require that the abs light not be on and others don't care. only a matter of time before they check everything thru the data link. I recently had a similar problem but cracking the lines from the master at the abs and bleeding the lines solved it. if the pedal doesn't pump up its probably not air in the system

was it doing this before changing the alternator?

you may have to remove and manually extend the IAC pintal then do the relearn

with both fuses pulled it still goes dead?

how does the fluid in the transfer case look? if its all sparkles you have a problem. also check the fluid in the front differential and make sure there's some in there

they make a tool to clamp off the hoses without damaging them. congratulations on the great maintenance changing the brake fluid as recommended but you are 1 of the VERY few that do that. in some European countries changing brake fluid is as common as changing oil I'm told.

the way to compress the piston is to clamp off the brake hose, open the bleeder (might as well remove it and never seize it while you're there)then using the tool or a large C-clamp with an old pad compress the piston. the reason being that the caliper is the lowest part of the system and any debris will collect there and if you push the crap back thru the abs control it can clog the tiny passages in it and ruin your day. if the piston compresses smoothly and the rubbers look good puck not damaged and the pins are free you have a good caliper. oh and no leaks, lol

progress! the 4wd issue was a blown fuse, I'm going to have the rebuilder build me a 1 wire alternator to solve that problem. the batteries weren't dead this am so whatever is on is ok and I can live without a CEL. I have a misfire that I didnt have before this happened so will deal with that and the alternator after my VayKay in the sunshine state, leave the plowing to someone else

hows it going?

so as I found out it could cause problems as the terminals on the bulkhead connector are used for different things. I'm having problems and it's from the same year

it's important that the pads aren't getting jammed by rust buildup on the caliper bracket

so I had to replace the engine/trans wiring harness in my 98 after the bracket that holds the harness above the front driveshaft broke and the wires got wrapped up in the shaft tearing the wires out of everything. according to the part number for the harness and the discription on GMparts .com fits 98 only and appears to cover many models. No such thing as new anymore so I got 1 from a wrecking yard in Pa.It looked right so put it in changing all the damaged sensors and switches as I went, also had to change the inner wiring harness in the trans as the plug was damaged and leaking fluid. so I notice extra plugs here and there such as 1 for the encoder which I don't have and a couple others that I have no idea what they are for. my front 02 sensors had the same male plugs as the new harness so don't want to splice a good harness change the sensors. left sensor frozen solid, break out the torch and , heat the bung, sensor snaps off. WONDERFUL!!! grind off the welds holding the bung in the pipe and weld a new 1 in. good thing it was the left side cuz no way you could do the right side in the truck. so finish up the bottom with a new driveshaft and go to the top and every thing looks hunky dory, no extra wires everything plugs in like its supposed to EXCEPT the last thing I go to plug in is the plug to the alternator. guess what the new harness doesn't have that wire. strip the old harness back to see where it goes and it goes to the bulkhead connector. so I try it without it. doesn't charge so I run a 12v wire from switched power to the alternator and it starts charging but then stops. did this fry the regulator? does it use less than 12v to energize the alt? I tried it momentary but as soon as I broke the connection it stopped charging. also now my CEL no longer functions or the 4wd indicator on the floor shift, the underhood lights not working and the underhood PD box seems to have power to the ac fuse and 1 other when the truck is off not sure if this is normal but I'm guessing not. so at this point I'm discusted and ready to just get it to charge make sure the 4wd works and use it for plowing . any ideas on the alternator issue?

you hit it, the caliper bolts act as slides and if they can't move easily the pad with the piston will wear and not the other. the rubbers should be available if they are in bad shape. what you got we call a pad slap and it's NOT a brake job. at the very least you grease the bolts. I sand blast any surface that can interfere with the caliper sliding freely, it's a lot quicker than the wiz wheel. stuck piston or bad hose would wear pads evenly if everything else is good. and the guy who never greases the pins is in for a surprise someday when he has to buy calipers cuz the pins are frozen

thanx for those links TXAB