MrMagloo

This is F'd up. The OTA updates are great, but if they are unreliable to the point the vehicle is disabled, that's a big problem.

I dislike losing a cupholder. I tried a number of mounts for my 2023 and kept sending them back. I finally got one from Offroam that is very nice. It's 100% anodized aluminum and is very HD. They have one for the 19-21's: https://getoffroam.com/collections/chevy-silverado-2019-2021-phone-mounts Might be worth looking at.

Hey New Dude, is there a place where you can search for SB on the NHTSA site? I was trying to see if I could get a copy of all SB's for the 2023's but I'm striking out? Clearly the maintain them, but cannot seem to access unless someone posts a link? *** On Edit, finally figured out that you cannot enter a VIN. You must use the Vehicle Tab. Thx!

Mine shows it got N23-241156 on Sept 3rd. Then on Sept 9th, I got N23-240984. If KA only got 0984 yesterday, that seems like a fairly long delay - Unless of course he was putting it off. Sorry to hear there was a hiccup. I'm really not liking the degree of the electronic complexity these vehicles have now. Especially, with the often questionable repair costs. My GF's daughter is at college and called that her 2018 Honda Civic was showing a CEL and was running a little rough. I told her to go to a AutoZone and get it scanned. Turned out to be a P0340, which is for the camshaft sensor. It's either the sensor or the wiring, both cheap and a dead simple job, but to replace I saw it might require programming so I have her bring it to the Honda. The Honda dealer confirmed the connector wire had rodent damage and quoted $500. Even sent a pic - Wire broke 1" from connector. Well, the replacement connector and pigtail is $20. And, it takes all of 10 minutes to complete. Then they quoted $2,100 for a brake job - New pads and relining the rotors which are fine. The problem is, this getting to be the new normal. The automakers are locking down things so tight purposely to make it harder for DYI, and in turn is enabling these dealers and this type of crap. Sorry for going OT, but I'm kind of fuming right now.

I can't tell you what they were doing in the ordering system, but ever since Spring, there is no way to to configure a RST with the 3.0L and the Max Tow. Still to this day, 6-7 months later, it still cannot be configured. I'd have a error code on a sheet that the dealer provided, but I cannot produce it immediately. It's good to hear that the combo is still listed on the guide, but it's just not orderable. If you try, it forces you to one of the gas engines.

Its very likely the Duratrac's. I actually ran the old MTR's on my Tahoe which were decent tires and moved to the Duratrac's I thought for better mileage, but was shocked at the road noise that actually got worse than the MTR's over time. As the others suggested, the alignment and frequent rotation is really important.

Does anyone know the reason why they stopped making the Max Tow available with the 3.0L? When I was getting ready to order a loaded up RST, the order wouldn't go through unless I changed to one of the gas options. The 3.0L was a priority so I had to go on a mad dash around the country to find something in stock in my color and preferences. Unfortunately, I had to settle for a truck without many of the options I wanted like the 360 camera, leather, sunroof, etc. The dealer tried to get some feedback, and he got nothing, but heard that the combo might not come back? I've actually been considering selling this new one just to get what I really wanted but you still cannot order the 3.0L with the Max Tow. Obviously the strike is going to screw things up for a while. But, naturally this makes me a little concerned about this combination depending on the reason and future outlook.

I ended up with the 3.0L RST with the Max Tow, and this powertrain is unbelievable. The mileage is unreal. On my last 5.3L Tahoe, I was lucky to get 17 on the highway, and around town was 15-ish. This 2023 3.0L is pretty quick out of the hole but not surprisingly, runs out of breath on the high end, but I'm seeing a 50 miles highway ave of 33+ mpg. Around town with stop and go, it's around 25, essentially doubling the mileage I used to get, with way more towing capacity too. It's absolutely crazy. I've only towed around 6,000 lbs and it was a breeze. That weight behind the Tahoe was a bit of a struggle. I'm looking forward to getting up near 10K to see what this thing will really do. I on the other hand really like the console shifter.

Wow, that's an interesting thought. Is this the camera that highmounts in the CHMSL? Does the camera tie directly into the mirror or is another processor box required?

For those with just the hitch camera, seeing it's virtually impossible to add camera to the factory head unit, its too bad there isn't a simple bluetooth camera you can connect to you phone that will mount in the grill like the stocker, and run on a switched lead. That seems to be the only real option, without dumping an enormous load of cash on a total retrofit. While there are a few cheapo cameras out there that might do the job, they are rated pretty poorly, reporting bad connectivity. Too bad some enterprising person doesn't work on a CP and AA app that specifically connects to bluetooth cameras. That would be the holy grail.

Do you have a link to the procedure to put the truck in relearn mode without a tool?

I guess I could start with the bypass and add from there. I am planning to buy a toyhauler that has a dry weight of 7,000lbs and a capacity of 11,000lbs, but with the Harley at 900lbs and say other gear of around 1,000lbs, I'm hoping to keep the GVW around 9,000 or below, if possible. In the midwest, we don't have to deal with much in the way of steep grades, so I'm hoping this 13K capable truck will handle it. Imho, 13K with a 1/2 ton is kind of nutty so I'm hoping running at roughly 2/3rd that will work out ok. I guess we will see.

Thanks for that detailed insight ND. What I don't get is all of these guys out there trumpeting the PPE Bypass Block, saying it alone will drop the temps ~25F and these temps hold up over great distance while towing? I just think this ~190+F temp is too high. I'd feel much better in the 170's, where all my past trucks ran.

It opens at 143F and it doesn't stabilize for another 50F higher? If it opens at 143F, at what temp is it fully open? And, can you remove the T-Stat or do you have to go with that PPE Bypass Block? I think I'd rather keep the stock housing to avoid the dealers prying eyes, if I can remove the stock T-Stat. BTW, here's that other thread:

I'd read some other threads. I'm a little uncomfortable with the 190-195 ave temps I'm seeing but the dealer says this is totally normal. I've driven a number of other recent Silverados and Sierras and they are all the same. Seems too hot for me, especially when I have the Diesel Max Tow.

I've found that simply swapping the speakers in my Tahoe and Vette with the premium Bose systems made a pretty nice improvement - and quickly got rid of that boosted mids muddiness. I last used the JL C2's before and they are really nice. But I don't see a C2 6x9 version that will fit. So, it seems the C1-690x and C1-650x is the way to go as CF recommends. Too bad they don't have a C1 to fit the dash. MShawn, did CF have the Metra 73-4573, or did you source that elsewhere? I checked Amazon too and they don't carry it either.

It's an interesting discussion as this vehicle is definitely running higher than what my past trucks used to run. I've actually driven a number of 2021's through 2023's and they all ran in the 185 to 195 range. This seems to be the factory target. Definitely not a range I'm comfortable with.

delete

Clearly you started this thread to highlight to the world that you foolishly made a $68K mistake, and it appears now you want to lash out and punish everyone for your stupidity. That's OK. Have fun.

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool? I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds? I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

Did you not audition the audio system before buying the truck? I believe the competition might have better radios, I never compared them side by side, but it's hard to understand your gripe if this is such a high priority and you are complaining after the fact. The fact the the truck was $68K is irrelevant as that's in range for the going rate for all trucks in this class. The easy answer is, you should have done a better job shopping. Not being snarky, and I too have a wish list of things I wish were better, but for my needs, and what I wanted to spend, I think I got the best truck for my needs. If having a better radio was a higher priority, I probably would have gotten something else. Everyone on the planet knows Bose pretty much blows. They have been the premium vendor of choice for a few decades now - How did you possibly miss that?

Firstly, it's involved to get behind the switches in the first place on a refresh, and there is no telling if removing the connector will disable the other functionality. Are you accidently hitting the button? What about pushing the button down adding some super glue and quickly releasing the button in place, if you are trying to avoid accidental drops?

It does appear the Kenwood's would provide some more mid, at the expense of ultra high end, based on the spec.

I thought I caught in one of your earlier posts you were set on going with the Kenwood speakers. Any reason why you changed that and went with the Pioneers? Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. What dash speakers did you end up going with? And of course, how does it sound? Did you have to take off the A pillar trim or were you able to just pop off the dash cover? Oh, and did you need any adaptors, or did they match right up? Thx!