Ry Guy

Guess it is personal preference, but I've driven multiple 3+ hour trips with the 5th wheel this season so far and have felt no fatigue with the seats in my '24. I actually like them better than the seats in my '21 F350, which I felt were too soft. What bothers me more is that the seat base seems to be shorter than on the F350. Anyway, consider getting seat covers for them or swap out the cloth for Katskin leather.

Mine does this as well. Never thought much of it and still don't.

That is interesting. I don't think I've ever seen a Trailering Information tag split out gooseneck and fifth wheel. Usually they both fall under "Gooseneck" and are the same rating.

What was the castor angle after the alignment? Mine is all the way up near -5% and it is noticeably stiffer than my previous F350. I do get that bump steering though, especially during the winter driving over all those upheave strips here in MI.

It is possible to find them painted from a parts recycler. Some of them even have new surplus parts directly from GM. It would be a bit of work calling around and seeing who has/can get what, but it is doable. You'd probably be looking at ~$500-$700 for that painted piece. Another option is if the dealer you order the parts from has a collision center, they can paint match the part for you if you. Just be sure to give them one of the painted trim pieces you are replacing on your truck so that they can match the paint properly.

I am not aware of anything aftermarket-wise, but if you wanted to stay with OEM parts your best bet would be to swap out the grille to a 2020-2023 High Country grille. You would also need a paint-matched grille surround since it is different for the High Country grille.

This thread will help: Fuse F26 and that auxiliary power pin in picture on the passenger's side fuse box can be used as an ACC source. I used the aux pin for my seat heaters and dash cam.

Being able to adjust the bottom seat angle is a big plus in terms of comfort. I have mine adjusted all the way up to the tallest position.

What were the symptoms the truck was exhibiting that prompted a look into the transmission?

For me, the bigger bed is worth it. I could not imagine going back to a half ton short bed.

Plenty of unused parking lot space at the mall. Gonna become nothing more than a storage lot soon if more stores keep closing.

The 7” screen is the IOR module, and you are pretty much out of luck upgrading to the factory 8” IOS or IOU screens. that leaves you with the aftermarket screens that retain the factory interface and overlay an android OS on top of it. These include the Tesla style screens and Z innovations screens. Neither these options have appealed to me after fully understanding their drawbacks/limitations. I am just going to stick with the small screen for now. The DONSLIFE YT channel has a number of videos reviewing these options extensively, including the workarounds for some of the drawbacks.

I have the Husky Aeroskin on mine. Love it. Easy to install. Just take your time to line it up perfectly, as it sticks directly to the hood with double-sided tape and it won't come off after that. I've run hood deflectors in all my trucks and they definitely help with rock chips at the front of the hood.

I haven't heard much if any complaints about death wobble in the 2020+ trucks. Was definitely an issue pre-2020.

I had a 2021 F350 before my current 2024 Silverado 2500. I like both, man. Both tow my 12k 5er just fine. Wish I could have one of each haha. No issues with the 6.6 gas or 10-speed, but I only have ~8,000 miles on mine. Had no issues with the 7.3/10-speed either after about ~15,000 miles. Observations for the Ford: - E-coated frame is nice in the rust belt - Aluminum body is realllllly nice in the rust belt - Fit and finish not as good as the GM (few annoying rattles, the plastic felt cheaper, the finish/coating on some of the plastic interior pieces was already wearing off) - Seats are softer (which has its pro's and con's) - Brakes are much more responsive - they bite a lot faster than the GM - The running boards felt flimsy and had a bit of flex - Camera quality is terrible - Annoying that you can't get leather or dual zone climate control without stepping up to a Lariat Observations for the GM: - The transmission is MUCH smoother. - The ride is nicer but it's not significantly nicer. Still rides like a heavy duty truck. - Fit and finish are great. The materials feel a bit nicer. - Seats are definitely firmer, but I find that it translates into better support making them less fatiguing than the Ford seats - The cameras are noticeably higher quality. - The multi-flex tailgate is awesome. Much better than the Ford tailgate step. - Dropping the trans pan sucks because of the exhaust y-pipe. - You really have to push on the brake pedal to engage the brakes. I have done the whole push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it to try and get the brakes more responsive. And it did help, but they still don't feel as responsive as the Ford. - The steering is very heavy. I drove the F350 one last time before I sold it and I was whipping the steering wheel around like crazy because of being used to the GM steering. This may have been because the F350 has electronic assist steering and my GM doesn't. - I already have rust on the frame in areas were the wax has been rubbed off from servicing. I will be getting it Krown coated yearly going forward. - The standard bed is slightly longer + the puck system sits slightly behind the rear axle, which provides for better 5th wheel maneuverability. - For me, the LT trim level is an excellent combination of the features I want without all the extras that I don't want. If you want to mod your truck, the Ford with FORScan is much friendlier of an ecosystem compared to GM's VIP system (which is by design). I added heated steering wheel and adaptive cruise easily through FORScan and some OEM parts. Not a chance you would ever be able to do that with the VIP system. Even with an MDI2 and SPS2 subscription, there is not much you can do outside of reprogramming modules to facilitate repairs.

The correct procedure is: 1) drop the Y-pipe under the transmission pan, 2) unscrew the transmission pan bolts to let the fluid drain out, 3) pull the pan and gasket, 4) replace the filter, 5) clean the magnet, 6) reinstall the pan (the gasket is reusable assuming it is in good condition) and reattach the y-pipe, 7) slightly overfill the transmission through the fill port on the side, 8 ) get the transmission temp up to 167-176F by doing converter stalls (10 seconds running the engine up to 1500 rpms with the brake applied, followed by 10 seconds off idle - repeat until the temperature is in the range), 9) unscrew the fluid level check bolt with the transmission temp in this range and let the fluid drain out until there is only a steady drip coming out, 10) reinstall the fluid level check bolt. If fluid does not come out at step 9, turn the engine off, let the area around the transmission cool down, add additional fluid through the fill port, and repeat steps 8-10.

Agreed. I prefer the firmer seat to the seats I had in my ‘21 super duty. I would sink in and they wouldn’t provide as much support. This made them more fatiguing and harder to get out of. Just wish the GM seats had better bolstering. They are pretty flat.

Can you provide a link to it?

I think the challenge you are going to face is getting a dealer to agree to program modules that are not part of your original build sheet. I don't think they are allowed to, and the most likely won't (or can't) program used modules.

That was the half ton truck transmissions. The heavy duty truck as I understand it was not co-developed.

They are both heavy duty trucks and ride like it. My '24 2500 does ride slightly nicer than my '21 F350 did though. The main issue that seems to have popped up on various forums is 10-speed valve body failures. I have no input on running bigger tires.

I added the rear camera mirror to my ‘24 Silverado 2500 custom. It was relatively inexpensive using used parts off of eBay. While it is a neat feature, I don’t find it to be all that useful. So I thought, why not try converting it to a bed view camera for hooking up the 5th wheel since I don’t have a video processor module. My initial attempt involved finding a bed camera third brake light and swapping the camera from the rear camera mirror brake light into it. It did work in a sense, but practically it was unusable because of the amount of zoom built into the camera. On the furthest zoomed out setting, all you could basically see was a 6”x6” spot in the bed. The actual bed view camera is not coaxial and cannot be connected to the camera mirror. for my second attempt, I tried swapping out the rear view camera with a tailgate backup camera module. It is also a coaxial connection and is wide angle. However, I could not get the camera mirror to display a video feed from the tailgate camera module. I suspect the tailgate camera module generates a video signal that is not compatible with the video processing on the camera mirror. I know this is probably a long shot, but does anyone know of a compatible wide angle coaxial camera that works with the rear view camera mirror? I would prefer to use the OEM camera mirror, but I suspect I’m going to have to take it all out and just use a Wolfbox G900 or something similar if I want to add a bed camera.

I ended up finding a set of the OEM 20” black ‘24 AT4 2500 wheels from a parts recycler for less than a thousand. Really liked the look of those when I saw them on an at4 in person. Picked them up today and will be getting them mounted tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

Wont sizing down from 20’s to 18’s mess with the speedometer accuracy? Plus I would have to get rid of my tires too instead of swapping them over to new wheels, which adds more cost. Edit: I saw your comment about needing dealer reprogramming for changing wheel size. That’s would be a show stopper since the ‘24 Custom trim level only had the one 20” wheel that came standard with the Custom