cmatt

That silver accent piece is removable. You can get to it with the mirror caps off. I can help you with the wiring for the puddle lamps, turn signals, power fold, etc. I make a harness that gets those circuits to the doors and in the door harness if needed. I can also make a fog light harness that will allow you to activate them with the correct factory headlight switch. PM me if you’re interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice job. I like the look. Have you thought about putting on Escalade side mirrors? The mirror surface area is much better. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That would be great. Makes sure you grab a pic of the connector end so I can see what terminals are present. Just be sure the console you buy isn’t a foreign country spec that has the 220 volt outlet. Other than that, I’m not aware of anything else to avoid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can help you. Parts can easily be added. The functionality will depend on what wiring is present/can be added and any module programming needed. The console will require a custom harness which I can make. To upgrade to a fully functional IO6 system, you’ll need an HMI, screen assembly, radio, possibly the CD player and associated wiring if not present. You could even look into adding the Denali/Premier cluster and HUD. Can you expand more on what you’re reading about the mirrors? I also build wire harnesses to integrate the full function DL3 mirrors or aftermarket tow mirrors. If the mirrors were connected without the proper wiring present, I can see why they wouldn’t function properly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I hate that you’ve decided to not install the cluster. I installed it on my Yukon along with adding HUD. As you said, there are more panels to remove than the trucks, but it’s one of my favorite mods. I’d encourage you to consider it again. I think you’d be very pleased with the results. Much [email protected] does for the trucks, I create custom wire harnesses to add options to the K2XX suv platform (tow mirrors, DL3 mirrors, illuminated handles, etc). I’ve taken my dash apart so many times, I could do it in my sleep. I’m happy to offer any help I can. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you for posting this. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It does

Do you mean the entire HID headlight assembly? They will physically fit, but won’t just plug and play. The issue is the PWM (pulse width modulation) signal on the low beam circuit. It makes the HID ballasts rapidly turn on and off. I’ve installed them on my SLT and love them. There are two ways to go about it: 1. Have your BCM programmed and do some wiring (move circuits at the BCM, UEC) along with adding a circuit or two in the forward lamp harness. 2. Use a custom relay harness like I did. I should be able to make one for you. PM me. It’s been a while since I installed mine and I would need to make sure the parts can still be sourced. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I did not when my windshield was replaced. I’ve heard you can disconnect the negative battery cable for a bit to reset it as well, but don’t know if that actually works. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice work guys!

eBay and patience is what I needed to find mine. I can modify your door harnesses and make you a harness to wire them in. The existing options you have will dictate what needs to be done. PM me for info. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Regarding the wiring for the mirrors, center console, etc., I can help. Some options can be added with wiring, others will need module programming. I can make custom harnesses. I’ve dealt with the civilian trim levels and would like to work with you guys to see what can be added to the PPVs. I would certainly appreciate any pics of the body & door connector end views to determine what circuits are there from the factory. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

@dragginNCrds I am very familiar with this platform’s wiring and can help you. Shoot me a PM. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can echo Chris. I had my windshield replaced with an HUD spec one recently and no calibration of the camera was needed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk