roadkill5.3

found a TSB, PI1513F, found it here, from a post a while ago using google. i found my issue by a low reservoir, well lower than it should be, noticed when i was doing my intake. i marked it, and kept an eye on it. warranty was going up in 60 days. checked it 4 weeks after my mark, was 1/2" lower. flashlight, found it. driver side top corner. researched, found the TSB luckly, powertrain up in 30 days now. called local dealer, took me right in, replaced tstat housing and radiator under warranty. check your trucks guys. 1500, silverado, 2016, 5.3, 34k miles.

i did police brake rotors and performance police ceramic pads for my 2016 silverado. quoted from description of the pads "ACDelco Gold Enhanced Performance Severe Duty Ceramic Brake Pads" "These brake pads are specifically designed to meet the demands of police and fleet vehicles." -rockauto, just entered in my truck specs as i didnt want fitment issues, especially since GM offers police packages for silverados now. -you dont need the "tahoe" police brakes, the part numbers are different, not sure on the actual difference though, the pads i ordered are the ceramic performance pads. they are not beveled at the edges, i have full pad contact on the rotor, like the tahoe brakes. -i didnt want semi or metallic due to noise potential, OEM brakes are cermaic. -copy pasted from my order receipt. ACDELCO 17D1707SDH ACDELCO 17D1367ASDH ACDELCO 18A1705PV ACDELCO 18A81032PV figured id share, as i did a fair bit if research because i couldnt easily find info prior to my brake job.

very happy with my tune from blackbear. truck runs and drives like it should. holds gears longer, no lugging around corners, stop light to stop light shifting 4 gears etc. it drives like a truck should. i run it on 93 all the time, regardless of the tune, it has 11:1 compression, and i didnt want any ****** on timing even with the stock tune. the tcm tune is spectacular in everyway. you dont need to hot rod around or have to hot rod around to have a tune. a tune can give you more power yea. but the drivability is what is really noticed. a tune is worth it in every way. when i had mine tuned, i told them what i wanted, a good all around 93 tune and their popular and reliable tcm tune. i didnt say i wanted to burn tire, race, etc. i dont drive like that. but i can tell you, it does burn tire way better and get up and go 10x better.

I have and run 93 and tcm tune from bbp. it got rid of my clunks, weird shifts, and shifting too fast and lugging. My truck drives how it should. I brought it to the dealer for an oil change and rotation, pulled the tune off the night prior, and I hated it. Makes you realize how nice the drivability is tuned.

I used to get a clunk now and again. Ever since I had it tuned with efi live, it’s gone 100%. What a better running truck all around. It’s all in the TCM programming by GM. this isn’t a post to get your trucks tuned, but this took care of the clunks completely that I was having. 2016, 6l80

6 speed didnt know they had 8 speeds in 2014's...you might want to update your signature, and post more clearly what tranny your talking about in the original post, you may have some better results ? i doubt you have a crank issue...that would be the final step, but its most likely the gm parameters in how the tranny shifts, as i said above, i have 0 clunks now with my 6 speed after my tune. its butter. hasnt the 8 speeds always shifted like ****** and had more problems than the 6's? tuning might be your only way out, or going to a different brand truck. goodluck

i just got tuned by black bear, and all down shift clunking is gone. what a difference on shifting, engine, etc. totally new truck. what my point is, tuning can fix the clunks. the way GM has programmed these trucks is asinine. too many up shifts to quick, constant lugging, wanting to increase fuel economy to gov regulations. i dont think its setup correctly/synchronized correctly with tranny and engine setpoints. but hey, im not an engineer. 30k miles. my warranty is up in 2 months anyway.

I’ve lived enough so far pal, you don’t know me. I’m not stooping down to your level of intelligence. go complain that you bought a defective truck on Facebook for attention. This is a forum for help, and feedback and learning new information. You came here with the intent to complain and to look for attention and it clearly shows with each additional post you make. Also, goodluck with your lawsuit. If you act the way you act in here, goodluck in court.

So you came here to complain and look for attention. Your right. You shouldn’t have to replace with ls7 lifters. But this issue is common since they started doing this. Just as all the issues with diesels and their exhausts, to meet epa guidelines. Blame the epa for increasing the requirements for fuel economy. ls7 lifters are bullet proof. Do it once and be done if it happens again. Or sell the truck

So what is your plan then? Fix it with the same lifters? Better lifters? Or sell the truck. I don’t get the point of your posts. you bought a shitty truck. Sorry?

If you don’t mind, what did that run you roughly?

im 27, and even i wouldnt buy anything with 100k unless it was an LBZ duramax. my father has a 2016 LML, and they have issues too. especially with the DPF clogging all stock. these motors are good. and so are the trucks. i just put efilvie on my 2016 5.3 last week, im at 30k miles, disabled DOD, and if i drop a lifter, im going full LS7 lifters and a cam. do it once and be done, or dump the truck.

go on google, there are tons of info on this subject. the electric fans do not move the air that your clutch fan does, when i was researching for my old duramax 5 years ago.

with 11:1, no matter the displacement, you should be running high octane. i dont care if its direct injected or if it has a carb. these motors will sense knock, and ****** your timing to compensate for shitty fuel. same goes with a honda, and this technology has been out there for a very long time. to get the most out of your 5.3, have less ******, run 93. i bought my l83 and it had regular in it. the first time i filled up, i ran 93, and what a difference in power and throttle response it had by the second tank. and to say that the 6.2 NEEDS higher octance more than the 5.3 is not that smart. both are high compression motors, sure the 6.2 has .4 more compression.... and that 6.2 is put in alot of higher end SUV's that soccer moms drive, do you think they run 93 or even 89? i highly doubt it. it just retards the timing, and itll run just fine on 87. but at 87 on either the 5.3 or the 6.2, your not getting the proclaimed HP of the motor nor are you getting the full performance as advertised.

shell out more $, and get efilive, blackbear. those canned tuners are trash. get a diablo intune 3 if you want to save some money, then get a custom tune from lew...but were only talking a couple hundred....

my duramax, id change the spin on allison filter every other oil change along with fuel filter, did the diffs and transfer case and tranny at 100k. i drove that truck 25k a year. the oils nowadays are 100x better than 30 years ago. ******, even a regular oil change using non synthetic, you can get 7-8k no problem. i go 10k on synthetic just for ****** on my company vehicle. my personal truck, 5.3 silverado '16, i change the oil late fall, then early spring. i have 30k on it, and had it since new. i average 8k miles a year, i could change once a year, but it sits in my driveway, 6 days a week not even moving, during the winter months you build up alot of condensation in your oil, thats why i change it when i do. i will not touch my diffs until maybe around 50k, because it sits. if i drove it more, moisture wont be present, id do 75k-100k. plugs and wires at 75k, etc. again, i do not drive my truck 20-30k a year like most people. more or less, im changing it based on how "old" it is and how much it sits.

dont forget on automotive AC, your condenser holds oil. when you replace it, dump the oil out into a container, measure/mark container, properly dispose of old oil, fill container with NEW oil (can be bought at auto part stores, PAG oil) to your measurement and pour into new condenser. the oil is crucial to your compressor. its not critical to replace your accumulator/drier, as no air has been let into the system, IF its still under pressure. a good evacuation and recharge will be fine. dont buy into the sales speech from people. i do commercial/industrial refrigeration and AC.

Installed my GM black bowties that I ordered, and tomorrow I’m doing GM bed lights. hope the lights work good, seeing in my bed at night and when I go hunting has been tough.

I think with any type of metal, it’s over recycled. I think that has a huge part of why things are rotting. Then again, if proper metal prep procedures are done prior to painting, this shouldn’t happen... goes with steel, iron, copper, etc. the quality isn’t there anymore.

I’m looking into tuning and didn’t read a single page but this one, what do you think the reason is for GM to be retarding the timing on 2016’s? i have an autocal from my duramax, I need to unlink it from ATP trucks, and give the info to blackbear, but I don’t have a laptop at the moment, I’d have to get a charger and battery . I know how to scan and load tunes on the efi live programs. Is the Diablo i3 just as good or comparable with their canned stuff? I know it’s not as customized..I mainly want to hold gears longer, not be in 6th going 40mph around town, be lugging at 900rpms and in 4cyl. But I want more response, afm off, less tq mngmt, firmer shifts, 93octane. Just wake it up and maybe get a little more juice out of it, I know the gains aren’t much on the dyno but the ass dyno, it’s night and day. Truck is stock, I’m getting a corsa catback, keeping the stock intake which breaths fine, cai’s are a waste of money if you have no other mods done to the motor, longtubes with high flows are in the future after my tuning, no forced induction or cams in my plans, if I were to get into my motor I’d go with a supercharger. Is going blackbear worth it for my uses over a diablo i3? Looking for real responses from people. From what I know myself, efi is the way to go, but I think with my mild case, diablo would be fine. Conundrum... price difference isn’t shit because I have a autocal already.

Manual 5th for around town. Use the money saved toward a tune

I have the same year and same truck. I have the motofab 1.5 up front as well, and have been researching coopers new line of at3’s for new rubber. You have the setup I’m going for. Any way you can grab pictures straight on of the truck to show the width of your tires? Maybe turn your wheel as if your turning left? im going back and forth with 275/65/18 and 285/65/18, but now you got me going on 275/70/18 due to no rubbing and I can actually see someone with the same exact everything as I have. I like the sidewall of the xlt’s better than the lt’s But it’s not a deal breaker, the tire size is going to dictate it. thanks!

When the truck is running, turn the valve. You’ll hear restriction then turn the opposite way, no restriction. It’s not difficult. You can hear when it’s open or closed...

i just drove my truck around, and what a difference and no vibration..feels as responsive as my 05 duramax without the tq obviously. very nice to drive.. if i had no warranty id have efilive done to wake it up more, but for now, this made a big difference and im happy how it gets up. especially since it took a ****ing panters stick. kind of hacky but hey, screw it.

i see this alot. people asking dumb questions and what not. somethings take a few seconds of actually looking, and feeling around. i wasnt sure where to put the shim myself, and i didnt read much at all. i went outside, checked it out, felt in and around it, and found the gap on the bottom bolt, between the bracket and the firewall. wiggled it and verified that was the gap that wiggles.and shimmed it not worth the bashing, but sometimes you just have to get off the couch or chair, and look yourself.