I upgraded my front end to match the 2012 -13 LTZ style like yours except mine is all white. I have an LT. I have the Range which disables the AFM system and leaves it in V8 mode all the time. You didn't say what engine you have in it, I have the 5.3L and I don't lose any mileage with the Range either. Mine is the 2009 and I don't have any dash cracking issues with it yet. I hope you don't either. Looks like a nice truck. Drive safe.
Actually it has the 4 speed with overdrive and the rear end is the 3.73. I also have the Range installed where it stays in V8 mode all the time, and I had the A/C on. I know if I did not have the towing rear end in it, I would be getting better gas mileage all the time.
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Usually I drive my truck down the freeway doing 70 - 75 trying to keep up with the traffic so I don't get run over. My commute is about 24 miles. Doing that, I am lucky to get 16 mpg. Yesterday, I decided to get in the right lane and follow a slow truck doing 55 - 60 mph. I also did that driving home. I averaged 20 mpg. Of course everyone knows you get better mileage when you drive slower, but you can't do that on California freeways without getting a lot of people pissed off at you.
But for some reason my truck hasn't faded. The stock color of the fender and the new grille matched. If he would have painted the truck the stock factory color there would have been no problem. The paint color they used had a yellow tint to it and I think it is because they figured the truck had faded and purposely painted it as if it had faded. So their solution in fixing that was instead of trying to feather in the edges of the parts they painted with the correct color paint, (which would have cost them more money to mix more paint) they just painted more parts with the left over faded color paint to make it match. If this guy is too cheap to paint the front section of the hood to make it match the grille, he is definitely not going to spend $400.00 on replacing that grille that he half ass painted and ruined. Now I am wondering if I spend the money and buy another grille and install it, will it be more noticeable that it doesn't match because now both fenders and the hood are a different color.
I recently had my truck repaired from an accident and finally got the upgraded grille and front of the truck painted all white that I have been wanting for many years. The grille alone was over $400.00 and took 3 weeks to get it from Michigan. I wanted that LTZ grille more than anything. When I got the truck back, I noticed the hood color did not match the drivers side fender that hadn't been damaged and the new grille. Those were the factory color Summit White. I discussed this with the owner and even explained to him and showed him with actual pictures of the truck of what I thought would be the easiest and cheapest way to fix this. They worked on the truck a few days and I got it back. The paint still does not match. I talked to the owner again, and he said he painted the grille and the drivers fender to match the hood. I went out and looked real close at the truck just now and I can see paint runs and tape marks on my new $400 grille. I am so upset. He ruined a perfectly good grille. He just painted more of the wrong color on more parts so it would match better. OOOOOOOHHHHHH. I am so mad I could scream!
That dipstick is not correct. I looked in my manual and it shows the same one you put here, but my truck has a different one. I took a picture of it and attached it to this reply. Mine only has 4 dots and not 5. Years ago they used to be like the one showing in the manual but mine has one less dot. I guess they removed it to save money. I could never figure out where exactly 1/4 qt is, or even half quart low, but made general assumptions. So now maybe they went to 1/3 quart low at the second dot from the top, and then 2/3, and then 1 Qt at the last dot. Or maybe its in ounces. The first dot 10oz, the second 20oz, and the bottom dot 30oz, close to 1 quart. Who is going to argue over a couple of ounces here or there. Yes the top dot is full. Thanks for posting the video. I had heard about that procedure and knew if the oil pressure did not come up with an oil change, I would have to look into having that done. Everything is fine now, the oil pressure is where it has been in the past.
My 2009 Silverado with the 5.3L V8 has always run well, and I am always driving it easy. This is the normal oil pressures I read on the gauge whether or not how accurate it is. Cold Idle 35psi Before the engine is fully warmed up at 2,000 rpms the oil pressure is at 60psi. Engine warmed up at 65 mph the rpm is at 2,000 oil pressure settles down about 40psi. I noticed this week the following... Cold Idle 30psi Before the engine is fully warmed up at 2,000 rpms the oil pressure is at 35psi. Engine warmed up at 65 mph the rpm is at 2,000 indicating about 30psi. The oil pressure indicator never got over 40psi no matter rpm I was at. I checked the oil level on the dipstick and it read at the 1st dot. I guess that is ¼ of a quart low. This oil pressure seemed low to me. I thought maybe the oil viscosity was compromised because the oil has about 7,000 miles on it, showing 30% oil life remaining and I usually change it when it gets down to about 10 – 15% remaining. So I went and had the oil changed to see if that had any effect on the oil pressure and yes, it did. The oil pressure is now back to normal. I would have never thought the oil viscosity would change as the oil gets older. I had the last oil change done at the dealer, and was wondering if this is because the dealer used a cheap oil. Before these Oil Life Remaining gadgets, I changed the oil in my vehicles every 5,000 miles. The truck is supposed to use 5w-30, and I never thought the oil pressure would drop when the oil gets more than 5,000 miles on it. Any ideas?
I used to do the bookkeeping for the local Line-X shop. When I bought my truck, I called him asking about the spray on liner. He said he would drop off the bookkeeping work, pick up my truck, and then bring the truck back in the afternoon and pick up his bookkeeping work. He charged me $100.00. What a deal. Of course this was back in 2010. I don't really use the truck for hauling anything in it, so it looks brand new still, only a little faded from the sun.
Hey Flyboy, I found your answer. The D-ring has an extrusion that fits into the notch of the adjuster end. Those extrusions are on the opposite side of the flat side so when installing, the flat surface would face the backing plate. That should solve your problem I am attaching a picture of how it is installed.
I found that the self adjusters on the rear brakes were froze solid. I got them working again and went to put it back together and am concerned about the D-ring in the picture I have attached. The ring spins around the shaft it is on, I left it so the flat part is facing down. Is this correct? The part is number 14 on this picture. Insert image from URL
I just checked the ground and there isn't any continuity from the ground wire to ground on the frame with the switch on. I see that there is a ground wire coming out of the wire loom and attaches to the frame. That may be where it is loosing its connection. I broke my back years ago and crawling under that truck just checking those two wires with popper clips makes my back real sore. It will have to be a Saturday job for me to jack up the truck and clean that ground and see if that works. I will work on it next weekend.
There was no damage to the brake system. Just minor scratching on the front wheel, so they bought me a new rim and I had the front end aligned. The right front camber was off by .4 degrees, so that was brought back into specs. I have noticed the parking brake pedal goes way down, and when I am parked, I can push the vehicle and hear the rear brakes slipping slightly. That could be the problem. I will check the rear brakes and adjust the parking brake as soon as I can and see if that helps. Thanks
My passenger fog light is not working. I believe when I got in the accident, and the bumper end cap got ripped forward it damaged the plug the fog light uses. I checked the wires with a volt meter, and there is power going to the plug, but the new light bulb plugged in doesn't work. Can I get a replacement plug or do I have to go to a junk yard and find one? I see some different types of GM plugs come with a short wiring harness with a plug on the other end as well. I don't know if my truck will use that or not. Any help would be appreciated.
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