rmsmis

GM seems to have disabled the ability to turn on the cargo lights while driving starting in the 2020 model year because it also can turn on the lights in the mirrors. I miss that too. As for the camera, it will only stay on when not in a forward driving gear as a "safety" measure so the driver is not distracted by it When driving, you get the 8 second timeout.

I don't know about the LT, but my LTZ has the trailering app in the infotainment. I simply bought 4 OEM sensors on eBay, installed them in the tires, and then ran the setup on the trailer in the infotainment. It now shows the pressures and temps of the tires and will bring up alerts on the DIC if any are out of normal.

If anyone else is interested, the part number for the OEM crossmember is 84632891.

There is nothing on Curt that I can find that looks like the posted crossmember.

Any chance you have those part numbers?

I have a 2020 and I remember a year or more ago I did come across a post somewhere that was talking about basically this exact setup, only it was mainly for the rear-view display and didn't really mention the bed view button. The discussion then was that this is a separate system and all that was needed to make it work was the mirror, cable, and light with the camera. There was NO programming involved. Because the trucks were fairly new at the time, getting those parts were nearly impossible so the idea went away, but I'm in the same spot as you and really like the idea of a bed view like you are showing.

Since I travel with my dog as well, and I didn't want to leave the truck in neutral with just the dog in there (no high idle in my truck), I had my dealer program the TSB that newdude posted above. They didn't know anything about it and had to order the software upgrade for their programmers, but after $180 my truck no longer shuts off. It's already been a nice peace of mind that the truck will stay cool for the dog while grabbing lunch on a summer trip, so personally it was worth the fee.

Sorry you had this happen, but I'd say with 99% certainty this was due to a regen. Usually you won't get a notice that a regen is taking place other than lower MPGs, but keep in mind that your exhaust temp can get up to 1,300 degrees during a regen cycle. I'd suggest any of three options; buy a 5" 45 degree angle tip and bolt it on to the outlet when you tow, cut the outlet a little shorter and permanently mount a 45 tip on the end, or buy a DPF-back exhaust that comes out the side. If it happened once, it will happen again unless you point the exhaust away from the trailer. I pull a travel trailer and have some extra room so the stock angle is fine, but your fifth wheel is closer to that high heat.

I have an LTZ that does have the shutters behind the grill. This leaves almost no room for even small light bars. I wanted some good light output so I ended up mounting a 40" curved marine light bar to the bumper (32k lumen). It's not hidden by any means, but I don't think it looks too bad and kind of breaks up the large grill area a bit. I did first try to find something that would fit in the small slot at the bottom of the grill, but nothing that slim had very good output.

This may be what you are looking for, but short answer is there isn't really anything besides buying another harness and cutting off the end plug.

Personally, I have one that you can find on Amazon if you search for "BAFX Products Wireless WiFi (OBDII) OBD2 Scanner & Reader - for iOS / iPhone & Android Devices". I use it with my iPhone and app called Car Scanner Pro (read more at www.carscanner.info). The app is great, but the only thing I wish was different is that the scanner didn't create an open WIFI network when plugged in. If you wanted to leave it in all the time I'd suggest something else that is a little more secure.

Personally, if I were wanting to power something larger, I'd install a separate inverter and run the correctly sized cables to the battery. The problem with upgrading what is in place is that you risk a fire if you don't replace all of the related wiring. The OEM setup is really for things like a laptop or a charger for a small device and not really useful for any actual power needs.

If you have Curt's package 56072, there should be a cover plate included. Just remove the stock filler cover (that black cover where an equipped truck would have the in-bed plug on the rear drivers corner of the bed) and use Curt's plate and plug in that spot. For those who want to do this as close to stock as possible, you will need GM parts 84056018, 84663240, and 84670050.

It is perfectly normal for these engines. It is most noticeable when you are towing a trailer or going down a hill since these will cause more engine braking due to the weight pushing back through the drive train. I do also suggest that you utilize the engine brake switch in either of these cases as it will flare the turbo to create backpressure there as well for additional deceleration.

GM vehicles do not have sim cards, or at least user accessible sim cards, as from what I've been able find. As for the SD card in the center console, it's for map data only and can be left in. To fully disable the uplink to GM, you have to unplug the OnStar module, but I'm not sure where that is in our trucks.

N-Fab Podium steps in SS

I went with the hard tri-fold from Rough Country and have been very happy with it. The price is pretty good on them too.

You might take a look at a Speed Turtle 3.0. I have one installed in my truck and it flashes just about everything with several available patterns. It's plug and play and doesn't require modifying any of your lights. I'm a volunteer firefighter and it was a lot easier to go that route on my 2500 compared to installing strobes. Funny enough, it even flashes the little light on the tailgate handle.

That all sounds normal. The mirror lights are the same way. You have to use the button if you want them on.

I don't have the puck system either, but have been thinking about the B&W companion system for when we do upgrade to a 5th wheel. Since I have a 2500 standard bed, do any of you that already have 5th wheels feel that it would be okay to go with the normal 5th wheel hitch with a modern style 5th wheel trailer, or would those of us with a standard beds need to go the sliding hitch route?

Glad you got it figured out. Hadn't been to my computer to reply until now. For anyone else's benefit, I had to link my front and rear emergency in-cab lights so I ended up going from the overhead console to the bottom of the rear drivers C pillar through the headliner. For the most part there is plenty of room to fish a wire up there. Once you get to the C pillar, you can remove that cover and fish down to come out at the floor. Since I hadn't routed any wires outside of my cab at this point, I decided to go that route, but I've seen many people come up through the floor under the back seat and it looks pretty easy to do if you want to drill.

I ran power to that area for both a dash cam and emergency lights. You can tap the power in the fuse box on the side of the passenger dash, run it up the A pillar, and then bring it across to the center above the headliner pretty easily. You'll want to remove the fuse area and A pillar area covers, but I'd also suggest removing the center lights panel as it makes things much easier to fish the wires over from the A pillar. There is a lot of open space up there to keep some extra wire coiled up and such as well. For the light, just gently pry off the two L-shaped covers to find the screw holes. I slipped the plastic wire cover for the mirror down a little and brought the wires out to my windshield there between the cover and the headliner. It ended up being a pretty clean install once everything was put back together.