There is no need to bleed just fill with oil start up and with wheels off ground turn steering wheel clock to clock once shut off engine check oil level and let sit for 1/2 hour restart and cycle wheel and drive. This is the procedure i have followed for 40 years with no issues.
Is your dads tempered or laminated? Look at the engraved label it should say one of the two. Also there is 12 years difference in the two vehicles and every year the models change 1200 to 1600 parts plus Federal requirements change and so do things like the tint percentage. Your truck like mine has RPO AA3 window tinted deep tint your dads may be different. The rear window is a range 22% +/-5% so can be anywhere from 17% to 27%.
I would start by replacing the Ign. switch since its the highest wear item and the PCM,BCM are quite reliable also the switch is the cheapest to replace. You did not state what kinda mileage you have on the 11 year old truck so i would assume you have over 150000 miles on it and the switch is usually wore out by 100000 miles.
Have you checked the operation of the O2 sensors? do that first to see if engine is running rich/lean then determine if you need to replace the Cats. If Cats. are bad it will ruin engine valves or worse. The eliminators won't fix the root of the problem.
I dont think you had a hot engine at 240F the SES would have set and at 250F PCM would have started to drop cylinders to protect the engine. My bet is on the coolant sensor or the yellow/black wire having coolant gotten through the sensor to the wiring. Inspect the plug/pigtail for coolant and when you change the thermostat only use 187 F only.
AC Delco or Delphi for longevity or any other brand if you like changing pumps.
Go to Rockauto and select the one that fits your vehicles description.
A code reader will only read powertrain codes a scanner (Tech 2) or equivalent will read all the vehicle modules, body, ABS, SDM etc. I suggest you get a scanner to integrate your vehicle.
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